Rwanda's western side is bounded by Lake Kivu, one of the string of huge freshwater lakes which lie along Africa's Great Rift Valley. There are three towns on the shore.

Gisenyi, in the north, was a colonial beach resort of note. Its waterfront area is lined with fading old mansions and a few old hotels plus the international standard Kivu Sun, all overlooking a lovely sandy beach complete with a laid-back beach bar. We understand that this hotel has now been taken over by Serena Hotels and that there are plans to develop it into a top quality spa facility – it will now be known as Lake Kivu Serena Hotel. Give us a call for the latest up-to-date information.

Further south, Kibuye is probably the prettiest of the towns; if you're visiting in August, you may catch thousands of kites here on their annual migration. The Bethanie Guesthouse has a beautifully location on a peninsula jutting out into the lake. From here you can take boat trips on Lake Kivu to nearby islands: Napoleon' Island with its' colony of fruit bats and Amahoro Island (aptly known as one bar island as all it has on it is one bar). There is also a genocide memorial church on a hill above Kibuye – a place for peaceful comtemplation.

At the southern end of the lake, Cyangugu (pronounced 'Shangugu') is an old border town whose fading façades tell of its past as a vital trading gateway. Here the Hotel du Lac is a delightfully old, reliable-but-slightly-shady institution, with a bar/restaurant where you're guaranteed to find some offbeat characters.

The real joy of this area is driving between the towns. The unpaved road gently curves back and forth as it weaves through hills and mountains beside the lake from Gisenyi to Cyangugu. Eucalyptus trees line the road, while every corner of the hills is terraced with bananas. Villagers smile and wave; you'll end up with hands tired from waving, and feel like royalty at the end of the trip!


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