Perhaps the best guidebook to Tanzania describes Mahale Mountains National Park as “quite simply one of the most beautiful parks anywhere in Africa”. The lakeshore here is a beach of the finest powder-white sand, behind which rises a range of imposing mountains, clad in verdant tropical vegetation. Big electric-blue butterflies flit above the streams and the forest is alive with sound. It's not only beautiful, but it also harbours Tanzania's densest population of primates: yellow baboon, red colobus, blue, red-tailed and vervet monkeys are never far away – and then, of course, there are the chimpanzees.

Covering about 1,600km² of the mountains, this park is home to around 1,000 chimpanzees. Most significantly, one group – the Mimikire clan – has been habituated by researchers since 1965. Currently led by an impressive alpha male, Fanana, the M-group, as they are more commonly known, has around 80 members. They go where they want and when they want but are relaxed near people, so it's possible to track and observe them from very close quarters.

They'll even brush past you on the paths if you stand still! The hike to reach them can vary from a leisurely wander of 20 minutes to a more strenuous hike lasting up to three hours.

Towards the end of the dry season (August to October) the forest paths are at their easiest to walk and the chimps are usually at their closest to the shore. Walking boots and small backpack (for cameras and binoculars) are always wise. Sightings are not guaranteed, but it's normal to see them on most days; you'd be exceedingly unlucky to stay here for several days and not find them. More usually, you'll be able to sit and watch them foraging, grooming, tussling, bickering and taking care of their young. Sitting in the forest, watching chimpanzees getting on with their daily lives is an unforgettable experience.

Once here in Western Tanzania, Mahale combines particularly well with a trip to Katavi National Park.


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