The lush Luangwa Valley is a rift valley enclosed by steep escarpment walls; it is one of the African continent's finest wildlife areas. The game in the majestic woodlands surrounding the Luangwa River was recognised as remarkable by the first settlers, and in 1904 it was officially protected.

There are now four national parks in this area. North Luangwa National Park and South Luangwa National Park are both large, and by far the most important. Both lie largely on the western banks of the Luangwa River, and extend through varied habitats to the densely wooded areas of the escarpment. Between them lie two smaller parks: Luambe National Park is a promising tiny park beside the river that is gradually rehabilitating; whilst Lukusuzi National Park is a large swathe of the eastern escarpment that's largely inaccessible, and not yet effectively protected. (Read more about North Luangwa… )

It's the wide alluvial plain and riverine area which is the most fertile area of the Luangwa Valley, and which has the most prolific wildlife. Here you find rich plains, dotted with ox-bow lakes (the remnants of old, abandoned watercourses) and lined by miles of lush riparian forest. Almost all of South Luangwa's safari camps and lodges are located here; most stand immediately beside the sweeping curves of the Luangwa River.

Safari camps and lodges in South Luangwa

South Luangwa has a number of world-class safari camps and lodges; we have seen them all and feature all of the best. (See map of South Luangwa's camps and lodges…)

Here they are grouped by the company that runs them, as when on safari in the Luangwa, it's often best to stick to camps from just one or two safari companies for your holiday. (See ideas for safaris to South Luangwa…) The choice of safari camps and operations is:

Norman Carr Safaris

The late, legendary conservationist, Norman Carr, started walking safaris in South Luangwa in the 1950s; he was park warden and in 1961 moved to base his safaris from Kapani Lodge. This is still the hub of Norman Carr Safaris (NCS), which now has four smaller bushcamps, located deeper into the park. Luwi Bushcamp and Nsolo Bushcamp are simpler sited along the seasonal 'Luwi River' (sometimes spelled 'Lubi'), which joins the main Luangwa River beside Kakuli. A fourth bushcamp, Mchenja, also overlooks the Luangwa, a little north of Kakuli. Like Mchenja, Kakuli is quite luxurious.

A safari starting with Kapani and then walking between the bushcamps, makes a lovely, varied trip. (See safaris with Norman Carr Safaris…)

Robin Pope Safaris

Robin Pope is almost synonymous with safaris in South Luangwa, and Robin Pope Safaris (widely known as 'RPS') certainly runs the Luangwa's best-known safari camps. The base for their operations is the small, riverside camp of Nkwali, which is close to the central 'Mfuwe' area. Nkwali is one of the Luangwa's few camps which is accessible all whole year. Further north, Robin Pope's two substantial seasonal bushcamps are Tena Tena and Nsefu. Like Nkwali, both offer both 4WD game drives and walking safaris. (See safaris which visit Robin Pope's safari camps… )

For small groups, and families, Robin Pope Safaris runs two stylish safari houses: the two-bedroom Robin's House, and the four-bedroom Luangwa Safari House; both are close to Nkwali. (See safaris which visit Robin Pope's safari houses…)

Perhaps the most famous holidays from Robin Pope Safaris are their walking safaris which utilise small, mobile walking safari camps. These 'mobiles' are organised about 18-24 months in advance, and often sell ouy swiftly; they run on fixed dates through the year. (See walking safaris with Robin Pope Safaris… )

Remote Africa Safaris

In the far north of South Luangwa National Park, Remote Africa Safaris is owner-run, and one of the best safari operations that we know. Here safaris are the lifeblood of John and Carol Coppinger, who run just four camps. Although their quality of service and food are amongst the best, their focus remains firmly on the game experience, Employing some of the valley's most experienced guides, their small flagship Tafika Camp offers 4WD and walking safaris. Its two tiny walking bushcamps – Chikoko Tree Camp and Crocodile Camp are purely walking camps; they run walking safaris in a game rich area where there are no roads or vehicles. (See safaris staying at Remote Africa's camps…)

Shenton Safaris

Run by Derek and Jules Shenton, Shenton Safaris have two slightly quirky camps, and lots of enthusiasm. Derek has been guiding in the Luangwa since the 1990s, and has developed a range of well-established hides for watching the game – often inventively located. These are proving a real attraction for photographers. The Shentons have just two small camps: their main base is at Kaingo Camp and, a morning's walk away, is a delightfully small Mwamba Bushcamp. This is situated in a very rich game area, with particularly high densities of the rare Cookson's wildebeest, which is endemic to the Laungwa Valley. (See safaris with Shenton Safaris… )

The Bushcamp Company

On the southern side of South Luangwa National Park, the Bushcamp Company runs five small, high-quality bushcamps. Kuyenda is by far the simplest of these, notable as being the base for Phil Berry – probably the Valley's most experienced guide. Meanwhile, Chindeni, Bilimungwe and Chindeni are all similarly comfortable small bushcamps. Kapamba is the newest addition to the stable – and its likely that two satellite walking nearby will follow.

Although not part of the Bushcamp Company, Mfuwe Lodge is closely linked to it. This larger lodge is in the centre of the 'Mfuwe' area of the park. It is open all year and has very relaxed game in the vicinity, although there are more vehicles around here than in most of the park.

Kawaza Village

North-east of the Mfuwe area, just east of the river and the park boundary, you'll find a ground-breaking community project which let's visitors stay in a real rural Zambian village. Such trips to enrich the visitors and the community – and really can be a life-changing experience! They are most easily combined with a stay at one of Robin Pope's camps. (Read more about Kawaza Village… )

The wildlife of South Luangwa National Park

South Luangwa supports a very rich flora and fauna, and the key to this is really the Valley's soils. These were originally volcanic in origin, and so are often rich in minerals and nutrients, augmented by fine deposits from the river. Combine these with plenty of rainfall (typically 800 to 1,100mm per annum) and a position about 12-14° from the equator, where there is plenty of light … and you have the base for a lush and diverse plant growth.

Vegetation

This has formed a patchwork of different vegetation zones, which include the ever-present miombo forests, interspersed with open, herby 'dambos'. Also mopane forests – both the stunted variety, and the beautiful mature 'cathedral mopane'. There are a few large open plains, although these aren't common; most notable is probably the plain at the heart of the Nsefu Sector – with the natural salt springs at its centre, which attracts crowned cranes in their thousands. But the Luangwa's most interesting habitat must be the lush riverine vegetation that lines the Luangwa River, and the banks of many old river courses and small tributaries. Here you'll find giant red mahogany trees, sausage trees, knobthornes and the hard, black African ebony trees – which form dense groves at several places in South Luangwa.

Herbivores

This rich vegetation supports a wide variety of herbivores, each with its own niche in the food chain. Elephant and buffalo occur in herds hundreds strong, and the park's most numerous antelope species are impala and puku. Impala are very adaptable: they can browse and graze, whilst puku are really an antelope of well-watered riverine areas.

South Luangwa's many other antelope include bushbuck, eland, kudu, oribi and the nocturnal grysbok. Reedbuck and Lichtenstein's hartebeest occur; sable and roan antelope are seen, often near the escarpment. Common waterbuck are also found here, even though it's the rarer subspecies, the Defassa waterbuck, which is found throughout most of the rest of Zambia.

Amongst South Luangwa's many herbivores, three several stand out as being endemic to the area. The beautiful Thornicroft's giraffe ahs a different (and more striking) colouration than the giraffes in the rest of southern Africa. Cookson's wildebeest; they differ in having slightly reddish bands and often 'cleaner' colours – and they are also a little smaller and more compact than their blue cousins. Finally Crawshay's zebra, is an endemic a subspecies of the more common Burchell's plains zebra: it completely lacks the brown shadow-stripe that Burchell's zebra have between their black stripes.

Large predators

The Luangwa Valley main predators are lion, leopard, spotted hyena and wild dog. (Cheetah do occur here, but are so uncommon that sightings are only recorded every decade or so.) Of these, lion are probably the most common, and their large prides are often easily spotted.

South Luangwa has a top reputation as a first-class park for leopard. This is largely because leopard hunt nocturnally, and South Luangwa is one of Africa's few national parks to allow spotlit night drives. However, at an estimated density of about one leopard per 2.5km², it also has a very high density of them. (That's roughly twice the density recorded in South Africa's Kruger National Park.)

Wild dog are uncommon, but sightings have been becoming much more common in recent years. They're now regularly seen, especially around February to May, and it seems likely that their numbers are growing.

Birds

As you'd expect of a fertile valley, the Luangwa boasts the rich tropical birdlife including birds of dry-country and water-based habitats. About 400 species have been observed here, including many typical of southern Africa – and a few more usually known from east Africa.

The best time for birds is around December to March: the 'emerald season'. Then summer migrants are here, lured by plentiful food. Once-dry plains have thick vegetation, water is everywhere, and flocks of herons, egrets and storks wade around feeding geese and ducks.

Of special note for birders are the plains and marshes of the Nsefu Sector, in the north of the park. During the rains there is a huge breeding colony of yellow-billed storks here – situated in a stand of tall trees, surrounded by shallow water, in the Nsefu Sector. It's the only colony of its size known in this region, and is a most spectacular sight. Meanwhile, when dry there is a perennial salt pan at the heart of the marshes of the Nsefu Sector, and during the dry season this attracts hundreds of crowned cranes.

Another birding highlight of the Luangwa are the colonies of iridescent carmine bee-eaters which nest in holes in the side of sandy river banks. The birds arrive around August-September and probably leave in the new year, although their peak nesting activity is usually around September to October.

See map of South Luangwa's safari lodges and camps …


^ Top of page