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Chiawa Camp

 - Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia
Read 4 traveller reviews of Chiawa Camp

The unpretentious, family-owned and run Chiawa Camp is set in the heart of the game-rich Lower Zambezi National Park. Chiawa stands on the grassy banks of the Zambezi River with uninterrupted views across the Zambezi, overlooking Zimbabwe's Mana Pools National Park. The camp is situated beneath a grove of mahogany trees, which provide plenty of shade on those hot summer days.

Chiawa offers a full range of flexible activities which include game drives (day and night) in open 4WDs, walking safaris, canoeing, boat trips and fishing (catch & release) on fly and conventional tackle with expert guides and custom built pontoon boats. The guides are professional and knowledgeable, and from my recent experience they always seem to go out of their way to fulfill each guest's interests.

When I last visited, in June 2007, the game in the Chiawa area seemed to be by far the best in the Lower Zambezi – with camps further into the park often heading east to game-view in this area, as well as vehicles coming from the GMA to the west.

Expect to see plenty of elephant, lion, leopard and buffalo. If you're lucky you'll see zebra and wild dog, but don't expect giraffe or cheetah, as they're not found in this park. My most memorable moment was finding Douglas, Chiawa's dominant male lion, on a night drive. We stopped very close to him in complete darkness as he called to a lioness and her cubs who were nearby. We could feel his roar vibrating through the vehicle!

For the keen birdwatcher, Chiawa Camp is a mecca for both water and land birds. Boating, canoeing and walking safaris allow you to get closer to the birds without disturbing them. On my last trip I saw my first osprey whilst drifting down the river having sundowner drinks. Other great sightings included the giant eagle owl, spurwinged geese, malachite and pied kingfishers and the graceful lilac-breasted rollers. That's not to forget the other species you'll see on the water such as hippos, crocodiles, monitor lizards and if you're lucky like I was, you'll see the elusive terrapin.

Chiawa also has a hide which overlooks the confluence of the dry river bed of the Chowe River (often referred to as the Chiawa River) and the Zambezi River. It's a great spot for watching the animals come down for their midday drink; elephants, buffalo, warthogs, impala and baboons frequent the area.

Chiawa has nine comfortable Meru-style tents, all beautifully furnished in neutral colours and mahogany wood and with en-suite bathrooms. The tents are raised on wooden platforms and have a private deck with table and chairs from which you can enjoy the gorgeous views.

Five of Chiawa's tents are luxury tents with either twin or double beds and mosquito nets. Each tent has a mahogany writing desk (with a very useful mammal & bird check list) and a brass table fan. Behind the bed is a long wooden desk that serves as the headboard and also creates a small dressing area. The dressing area has a wooden cupboard and shelves and leads outside to the bathroom at the rear of each tent. The outdoor bathroom has a canvas roof to shade it from the sun, and is enclosed for privacy with a high timber wall. The bathrooms have twin brass basins, a flushing loo and hot and cold shower; and that's not to forget the Molton Brown toiletries.

Chiawa Camp has one honeymoon suite which overlooks the confluence of the Zambezi River and the Chowe River. The honeymoon suite is the same size as the luxury tents, but it has a double bed and a Victorian bath with a view – so you can lie in the bath and watch the animals go by!

Chiawa's newest additions are the three spectacular superior tents. All three tents overlook the Chowe River; and are the furthest away from the main area. The superior tents are twice the size of the luxury tents, and each has an incredibly comfortable King size bed with a mosquito net, a ceiling and table fan, a spacious lounge area with a very soft and comfortable sofa (good enough for an afternoon siesta) a writing desk, dressing table and private deck with a wooden bench & table. The superior tents all have an en-suite bathroom with an indoor & outdoor shower and a Victorian bath. However, tent # 9 (at the very end of the camp) is slightly different in that its bathroom is outside and is open in the front; although still under canvas and on a raised deck.

Lodge overview
Lodge type: Safari
No. of bedrooms: 9 Meru-style tents
Season: Seasonal
Ideal length of stay: We recommend a minimum of 3 nights.
Central facilities: Chiawa is a seasonal camp, used only during the dry season. It is mostly built of dark wood, reeds and thatch, giving it a pleasantly rustic air.

The main area is a double-storey construction with uninterrupted views across the Zambezi River. Inside you'll find two separate lounge areas with wooden chairs & benches and cane furniture with soft cushions in neutral tones and earthy reds. There's also a small library of books and magazines and a natural history display table. Upstairs there's a third comfortable seating area and viewing deck with a telescope.

Most meals are taken in the separate dinging area which is open to the front, overlooking the river. Dinner is usually by candlelight under the stars, whereas lunches could be anywhere from out on the lawns to on Chiawa's motorised pontoon. In the dining room you'll also find a 'help yourself' tea & coffee table, which is always stocked with freshly-baked biscuits.

Breakfast is served before the morning activities and is set up around the campfire. A selection of teas, coffee, fruit juice, cereal, yoghurt, porridge and toast is displayed on Chiawa's innovative mokoro table (a dug out canoe).

For those sunny afternoons, Chiawa Camp also has a small, man-made rock pool for swimming.

Geographics
Location: Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia
Directions: Fly in from either Lusaka (40 minutes) or Livingstone (approx. 1 hr 10 minutes if direct; more when flying via Lusaka) to Royal (the closest airstrip – just west of the park) then an approx. 25-minute road transfer followed by a 20-minute boat ride to camp.
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel
Owner: Owned and run by Grant Cumings and his family.

Food & drink
Usual board basis: Full Board
Food quality: Expert Africa team members have visited Chiawa Camp many times, first in 1995! On our most recent visit, in June 2007, the food was typically very good and the portions were very generous – a little too big for my comfort.

You'll be woken just before sunrise with a “knock knock” and there will be tea or coffee waiting for you on your private deck. Once dressed and ready for your morning game activity, meet around the campfire for breakfast. Breakfast usually consists of toast, muffins or banana bread, cereal, yoghurt and porridge.

Lunch is served once you're back from your morning game activity and have had some time to freshen up; it's usually around 12h30. Chiawa often arrange special lunches – they're very good with this. On my last trip there I had lunch on their motorised pontoon! We anchored at the mouth of the Chowe River and watched huge herds of elephants come down for their midday drink.

Tea is served at about 15h30 and is always accompanied by something either sweet or savory. Then you're off on your afternoon activity.

Dinner is a four course meal (so save space) served by candlelight under the stars. Whilst there I had a delicious mushroom, aubergine, forest ham and cream cheese stack, followed by vegetable & sweet corn soup. The main course was a choice of either fish or beef strips accompanied by vegetables. Desert was passion fruit cheese cake… which was delicious.
Dining style: Group Meals
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining

Special interests
Honeymoons: Chiawa's vast superior are very luxurious; perfect for honeymooners. Couples can dine in the privacy of their own room, or romantic dinners can be arranged on the motorised pontoon. The bathtubs are big enough for two, and an outdoor shower under the stars also adds to the romance.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for honeymoons in Zambia
Birdwatching: Chiawa is a good choice of camp for watching both water and land birds, and has guides who are excellent birders. Boating, canoeing, walks and their game-hide allow you to get close to birds without disturbing them. My sightings included an osprey, giant eagle owl, spurwinged geese, malachite and pied kingfishers and lilac breasted rollers.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for birdwatching in Zambia
Photographic: Chiawa Camp uses open 4WD vehicles for safaris, ideal for photography. In addition, boating and canoeing can give great opportunities for bird photography, as does the hide, which overlooks a popular drinking spot for much game – so a tripod and a very long lens works well here.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for photographic in Zambia
Walking: Chiawa Camp's guides are professional and experienced and offer walking safaris of a high calibre – as well as many other game activities. Walks are a great way for learning about the smaller things in the bush and usually last 2-4 hours, depending entirely on you, and the other guests with whom you're walking.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for walking in Zambia
Wildlife: The Chiawa area has the best game in the Lower Zambezi National Park. As well as excellent birding, the variety of game here was impressive, including lion, buffalo, hyena, leopard, elephant, waterbuck and bushbuck. Nocturnal sightings including porcupines, elephant shrews, banded mongeese, civets, large spotted genets and even African wildcat.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for wildlife in Zambia

Children
Attitude towards children: The child policy for 2008 has been revised to minimum age of 8 years.
Age restrictions: Minimum age of children visiting is 8 years
Equipment: An extra bed could be made up in the luxury tents (at a squeeze), and two extra beds could be made up in the superior tents.
Alternatively, tents 1 and 2 are the closest together, and would work for a family with older children only – as nobody is allowed to walk around alone after dark.
Generally recommended for children: Not for children under 8 years, and any children should be very closely supervised at all times by their parents.
Notes: Chiawa Camp is an unfenced camp and dangerous wildlife wanders through the camp often. There is an open river bank, which is steep in parts, and the swimming pool is unfenced and deep (and very green when we last visited!).

Central communications
Power supply: Generator
Communications: There is no direct phone line – although the camp does have satellite communications for emergencies. There is no mobile reception.

Health & safety
Malarial area: Yes
Medical care: The camp managers and guides are trained in first-aid.

The closest doctor is in the village 1½ hours away by boat. In severe emergencies, you would be evacuated to Lusaka and then to Johannesburg.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: Chiawa is an unfenced camp, on the edge of the Zambezi River. Dangerous animals roam through the camp, especially at night. Guests are escorted to their tents after dark and a safety radio is provided in each tent. The managers and guides tents are spread out throughout the camp; so there is always someone nearby to assist if need be.
Fire safety: There are fire buckets with water at all the tents and behind all the thatched buildings. There's also a fire blanket and fire extinguishers in the kitchen.

Extras
Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: Full laundry service is included, except for underwear, for which washing powder is provided in the bathrooms.



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