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Eningu Clayhouse- Southern Namibia, NamibiaEningu Clayhouse Lodge stands in the Kalahari amidst bush savannah, a little over an hour's drive south-east of Windhoek's main international airport. It's owner-run by Kate Dunston, and quite a distinctive lodge – as it's all built from handmade terracotta-coloured bricks which blend into the surrounding red sands of the Kalahari. Eningu Clayhouse Lodge has nine rooms, and all use terracotta and reds extensively, both inside and out. From the outside the walls are almost Mexican in appearance, with a red adobe finish and soft, curving lines. Thatched roofs seem almost bolted on the side! Inside the theme continues, and here moulded-stone furniture (bed and seats) is topped by cushions and coloured fabrics. Look hard at the red floor and you'll find hand-painted porcupines - outside each room are a few sculptures, befitting for a lodge that was started by two artists some years ago. The room feels fairly sparsely furnished, and includes a built-in bench in one corner of the room, a writing desk and a bed with twin mattresses on a single, large concrete base – surrounded by a large mosquito net. Above is a ceiling fan, although there's also an electric wall-heater for the chilly winter nights. All the rooms have an en-suite bathroom with a hot shower (maroon tiles blend in remarkably well here), a wash basin and a flushing toilet. Towels and liquid soap are provided. Quite a few fixtures and fittings in the rooms at Eningu Clayhouse include old or re-cycled elements; like the pipes used in the bathroom's towel rails, or the tin-can surround to the bathroom mirror. However, the room's most unusual piece of furniture is a small, triangular table, which houses the tea/coffee making facilities. It's unusual for being suspended between three wooden branches, connected together rather like an extended tripod. Some rooms have a thatched shared porch, set with wooden table and chairs, and often adorned with a sculpture or two. There's a choice of lounge and dining areas at Eningu Clayhouse Lodge. Inside the lodge's main building is a small lounge with a small adjacent library area. This is next to the curio shop – which sells crafts, textiles and jewelry made from orphans on the farm – and the main restaurant, which is fairly small and intimate. Here the walls are decorated with many paintings, and at one end a wine-rack, supported by a triangle of natural branches, is used for a bar. Expect a gentle background of subtle classical music to be playing here! Stairs leads from here lead to an open-air rooftop terrace, where you'll find a very professional-looking, computerized telescope; the night sky is amazingly clear here in the Kalahari. Meanwhile outside the building, under the veranda is a shaded 'stoep' (the local word for a veranda) – where the walls are covered with an artistic assortment of photographs of people. Away from the main building, there is a 'lapa' area – and open-walled structure with a thatch roof – which is used for outdoor dining during the summer. This is partially sunken, and built around many existing rocks in the ground; these help to keep it nice and cool during the day. There are a few plants dotted amongst these rocks, and stairs here lead to a good selection of wines in the underground cellar. Walking around the lodge, Kate is at pains to emphasise how eco-friendly and energy-efficient the lodge is; claims given credance by some local Namibian awards won by Eningu Clayhouse Lodge. When the weather allows, Eningu is a good place for activities - many of which are delightfully original. There is equipment for archery, volleyball and badminton, all outdoors, and the large, sparkling swimming pool comes complete with a whirlpool/Jacuzzi. The lodge has a small 'hide' for watching birds, and the staff leave food out at night – and guests can usually see porcupines visiting. Eningu has a few marked hiking trails that you can either explore on your own, or with a guide from the lodge. It's even possible to take their 'Botanical Hiking Trail' which leads through different zones of vegetation – each marked by an explanatory information board – and to take a lovely picnic lunch with you. If you stay for a few days then visits to local craftspeople and a nature drive around Eningu's own slice of the Kalahari are included. In conclusion ... Eningu Clayhouse Lodge is often used as a first or last night on a self-drive safari around Namibia, although we think that it's certainly worth two nights. It is one of Namibia's more unusual and arty lodges, and Kate's warm hospitality and the dead silence of the Kalahari that surrounds you are just fantastic. We like the rustic but comfortable atmosphere, the good fresh food, and the beautiful hand-painted touches in the rooms. However, don't come here expecting big game on the drives (if you're lucky you'll see kudu and steenbok!), or any real schedule of activities. Think of Eningu as a place to relax and unwind.
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