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Kalahari Plains Camp

 - Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana

Built in November 2008, Kalahari Plains Camp was one of the first safari camps opened in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR). The appeal of this incredible conservation area is not its wildlife, although there are some amazing wildlife sightings to be had, but its vast open expanses and relatively unexplored wilderness. Before now, visits to the over 50,000km2 Central Kalahari Game Reserve has only been possible on self-sufficient mobile camping safaris; now this is one of only two camps in the park. (The other is the more substantial, lodge-like, Tau Pan Camp.)

Kalahari Plains Camp is a simple yet comfortable tented camp – constructed along quite traditional lines. Accommodation is in one of ten spacious, walk-in tents erected on wooden platforms, each with a private deck and view over the surrounding Kalahari plains. Rustic rather than basic in style, each tent has zip-up doors, roll-up canvas windows, cosy twin or double beds, wooden shelving and hanging space, cotton robes, writing desk and fan.

A roll-up canvas flap leads through to the en suite bathroom which is fitted with a flush toilet behind a wooden partition, twin sinks, mirror, and large walk-in shower. A double-layered canvas roof covers the tent and deck, giving an extra protective layer against the strong Kalahari sun. Insulated canvas walls and airflow between the tent and the roof help keep the interior relatively cool. Solar power provides electricity and hot water.

The main area of Kalahari Plains Camp is separated from the rooms by sandy pathways through the bush, and is a long , narrow open-sided tent on a raised wooden platform. Side panels can be rolled down against the elements when necessary. At one end is a dining area and well-stocked fridge. A comfortable lounge area with an eclectic gathering of chairs, low tables and small reference library sits at the other end. At the centre of the tent is an inviting wood-top bar and stools, a popular pre-dinner gathering spot where guests and guides discuss the day's adventures. A couple of hammocks strung up in nearby trees are inviting resting places for the afternoon, and beyond this is the campfire.

When we visited in June 2009 there were plans to move the camp to a new site, southeast of Deception Valley, by the end of the year. Permanent water has been found there, making operating the camp easier – and giving the possibility for the camp to make a waterhole nearby. The only other waterhole in this vast area is the Botswana's Department of Wildlife one at Letiahau.

An airstrip is planned for 5km from the new site. This should provide easier access than the 3-hour road transfer from Deception Valley Lodge, outside the park, which is currently needed.

Kalahari Plains Camp is well situated close to Deception Valley – made famous by researchers Mark and Delia Owens and their evocative book, 'Cry of the Kalahari'. Activities focus on this magical pan and visits to other nearby pans found between the undulating vegetated dunes, including Sunday Pan and Leopard Pan. It is also possible to take a guided walk in the vicinity of the camp studying plants, spotting birds and reading animal spoor.

For much of the year the Central Kalahari Game Reserve is a dry, harsh landscape dotted with only the hardiest of wildlife, including springbok, gemsbok, jackals, bat-eared foxes and occasionally, cheetah and lion. During the months of May to November travellers shouldn't visit the CKGR to spot animals. Instead you should come to see a vast and undiscovered wilderness the size of Switzerland where the landscape goes on for miles, and if you look closer, creatures and plants that will surprise you with their methods of survival. Knowledgeable guides might point out charismatic ground squirrels who use their tails as umbrellas, explain how the male Burchell's sandgrouse stores water under his breast feathers before flying kilometers to feed his young or how the black-maned lions here walk 30km more in a day, and grow to a much larger size than those found in the Okavango Delta.

During the summer months of November through to April, rain turns the valleys and pans green with nutritious grasses. Herds of antelope, blue wildebeest and giraffe congregate here followed by predators such as lion, cheetah, wild dog and even leopard. During this short and rain-dependent season the Kalahari comes alive with carpets of beautiful flowers, abundant wildlife and numerous bird species.

In conclusion…. Kalahari Plains Camp is well situated to see the best of the area and the simple comfort of the accommodation is in keeping with its surroundings. During our stay we had a great guide who really bought the Kalahari alive for us even though on the surface the landscape appeared harsh and unforgiving. The CKGR is a unique destination where wide open spaces have a magical atmosphere, especially during the last rays of the setting sun.

Lodge overview
Lodge type: Safari
No. of bedrooms: 10 tents
Season: Open Year Round
Ideal length of stay: Stay two nights if you are visiting during the dry season of May to Nov and three nights if you are visiting during the Kalahari's most productive season, between about Dec to April.

Geographics
Location: Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana
Directions: A 50-minute flight from Maun takes you to the CKGR. Currently flights land at the Deception Valley Lodge Airstrip and a 3-hour road transfer takes you from there to the Kalahari Plains Camp. An airstrip is planned a short 5km from camp to be open by end 2009.

Food & drink
Usual board basis: Full Board
Food quality: When we visited in May 2009, the food at Kalahari Plains Camp was hit and miss. Some dishes were simple, tasty and fine, but one or two others didn't work well.

Breakfast was a straightforward buffet of cereals, fruit, yoghurts and lovely freshly made muffins. This is followed by a selection of cooked options including eggs made to order, beans, sausage, bacon and tomato.

We didn't have the chance to try lunch here, but we understand it to be a large brunch upon guests return from the morning activity or a packed picnic of sandwiches, fruit and biscuits for those on a full day game drive.

Dinner is taken as a group around one long table. During our stay we had a very tasty onion soup accompanied with a freshly made bread roll for starters. Main course was well seasoned roast chicken, potato wedges, vegetables, a simple salad which was nice. The dish was let down by a gem squash stuffed with cream corn which was bland and watery. Desert was proffered to be a custard slice which sounded delicious but in reality it was hard frozen custard ice-cream on an equally hard and strange biscuit base.

Having visited many camps run by Wilderness Safaris and knowing their food standards, we expect that the meals will substantially improve here as the camp matures and the chef receives the necessary training.
Dining style: Group Meals
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included
Drinks included: There is a good selection of beverages available at Kalahari Plains Camp all of which are included in the price.

Children
Generally recommended for children: The minimum age allowed to visit Kalahari Plains Camp is 8 years. Although children aged 8 and above are welcome here, the camp is very simple with no pool or games available to entertain youngsters between activities. Because of this we generally recommend the camp for children aged about 16 and over.

Central communications
Power supply: Solar Power
Communications: Kalahari Plains Camp is in radio contact with the guides whilst on activities and with the main office in Maun. There is a satellite phone available for emergencies.

Health & safety
Malarial area: Yes
Medical care: The manager and guides at camp are first aid qualified. Anyone with serious medical issues will usually be flown from camp to the nearest hospital for treatment.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: Guests are escorted to their rooms after dark in case of animals wandering through the camp. Each tent has a small safe to store any travel documents or cash.
Fire safety: Fire extinguishers are situated outside each tent and the main area. Kalahari Plains Camp also has a 'fire station' with buckets, fire beaters and other equipment needed to help put out a fire.

Extras
Disabled access: Not Possible
Laundry facilities: A laundry service is included at Kalahari Plains Camp. For cultural reasons, the staff cannot wash underwear. A small pot of soap powder is included in each tent for guests who wish to do a little hand washing.
Money: No additional payment is needed in camp. We recommend US Dollars in small denominations for any tips.



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