Read 4 traveller reviews of Kapamba

In the far south of the park, Kapamba is the newest, and most remote, of the five camps in South Luangwa owned by The Bushcamp Company.

Kapamba is spread along the shallow, seasonal Kapamba River - with wonderful views over it. It has the air of a remote, pioneering camp and in keeping with the ethos of the Luangwa's original bushcamps, Kapamba has no electricity. Instead the camp is lit by paraffin lanterns at night, which lend a fairytale air to the cosy bush-camp feel.

Kapamba has just four stylish stone chalets: two with twin beds, and two with double beds, which act as 'honeymoon suites'. Besides the double beds, there is no difference between the twin and the double chalets – all are well-designed and attractively decorated, and each has a spacious en-suite bathroom.

The bedrooms are beautifully appointed with very comfortable “built-in moulded” beds, palatial mosquito nets, carved wooden trunks and a small writing desk. A curved wall and cream coloured curtain separates the bedroom from the en-suite bathroom.

The gorgeous bathrooms have twin basins, hot & cold running water, a flushing loo, and their main feature is the large sunken stone bath. These are just about big enough to swim laps in, and have been cleverly designed to fill quite rapidly – two large taps are turned and the water gushes out from the side, filling in around six minutes. In summer, when temperatures can reach 40s degrees Celsius, guests sometimes fill their baths with cold water and use them as private plunge pools.

Each bathroom also has twin showers above the bath, with enormous brass shower heads. Because the camp doesn't have electricity, the water is heated by wood which burns outside in what is called a “donkey” boiler.

The full front of the chalets (one side of the bedroom and the bathroom) is completely open, and leads out onto a private verandah. At night the front can be closed for safety by large wrought iron gates, which resemble a spider's web, but don't obstruct your view.

Like its sister-camps, Kapamba offers a mix of walking safaris and game-drives (day & night) – and with advanced notice walks between the camps can sometimes be arranged. Generally the camp's visitors agree with the camp's guide whether to walk or drive for a given activity – and then the guests all join the same activity.

The walking area is pristine. When the camp first opened, the game was extremely skittish, having seldom seen humans before. Now it is getting used to the regular walks and drives in the area – and the arrival of two camps even further south of here (Kwena Lagoon and Kalamu Tented Camp) can only help to relax the game even further.

We had two wonderful walks when we were last there in June 2007, which included quite a lot about bush survival skills – which trees travellers can get water from when lost in the bush; which berries to eat; how to find directions by looking at weaver birds nests etc. And as ever, walking allows visitors to appreciate the smaller things, which you don't always get to see when you're on a vehicle.

Notable game here includes the endemic Thornicroft giraffe, lion, elephant, leopard (which we spotted on both night drives) and occasional wild dog (which had been seen making a kill the day before we arrived). Plains game including impala and puku are also very common.

During our short stay here, we loved Kapamba. We found the staff attentive, meals good, guiding excellent, and the rooms beautiful. If you want some serious walking in quiet areas on the south side of the park, then this and its sister-camps are good choices.

Lodge overview

Lodge type: Safari

No. of bedrooms: 4 Stone & thatch chalets

Season: mid April to 2 Jan

Ideal length of stay: We recommend a minimum of three nights if you're only visiting Kapamba in this area of South Luangwa. However, a more usually trip would be to combine Kapamba into a longer trip on this south side of the park, including a few nights at a couple of its sister-camps: Kuyenda, Chindeni, Chamilandu and Bilimungwe.

Central facilities: Kapamba's central area is situated on the edge of the Kapamba River. It has stone walls with large open windows – to make the most of the beautiful views. There's a tall thatch roof which adds to the rooms cool and open feel, and the wooden rafters and earthy screed floor are in keeping with the bush camp feel. Inside you'll find a small lounge area with cushioned wooden chairs and benches, and a coffee table with some wildlife books and magazines. Little touches here and there, such as displays of flora and fauna found locally, add a personal feel. The dinging area has two long wooden tables which can be moved around depending on where the meals area eaten. And there's also a simple, yet well stocked bar, and a tea & coffee corner where you can help yourselves. Outside the wooden deck offers an ideal viewing point. It's the camps focal point and is wonderful spot for watching the animals when they come down to drink at the river. The dining rooms tables can also be moved outside onto the deck for a candlelight dinner under the stars.

Geographics

Location: South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

Directions: Fly from Lusaka to Mfuwe (one hour) and then transfer by vehicle to Mfuwe Lodge (one hour) for a drinks/lunch/toilet stop. It's then a three-hour game transfer to Kapamba.

Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel

Owner: The Bushcamp Company

Staff: Camp Manager: Oli Dreike Our guide was Fanuelle [pronounced Fanwell] who usually guides at Chamilandu. Other guides: Gilbert Mgoru & Dean McGregor (the guides do move between the Bushcamp Company camps) Guide: Derek Solomon (a renowned guide in the Valley) is often in camp either assisting guiding or guiding personal groups. Chef: Davie Banda

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: On our visit to Kapamba in June 2007 we found the food very good. A light breakfast is served on the main deck overlooking the river and watching the sunrise. Breakfast consists of cereal, toast, muffins and fruit, along with tea, coffee and fruit juice. Then set off on your early morning walk or game drive. Lunch is served in the dining room once you've had some time to freshen up after your morning activity; around 11:30. It's a buffet and there is usually a meat dish, a choice of salads and freshly baked bread. On our recent trip, we had chicken breasts, creaser salad and beetroot salad, followed by fresh melon. Before the afternoon activity everyone meets for afternoon tea at around 15:30. This is served on the deck and there is usually a delicious home baked cake or chocolate brownies. Kapamba's lemon cake was possibly the best I've ever tasted! Sundowners are served whilst out on your game drive with a drink (or two) of your choice and some snacks. Return to camp for dinner which is served around 20:30 (depending on how long your night drive lasts). Dinner is a three course affair – we had a tomato and cheese kebab to start, a delicious beef pie for mains, and a lemon tart for desert. This was followed by tea and coffee, and an amarula nightcap.

Dining style: Group Meals

Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining

Room service: No.

Drinks included: From 1 June – 31 Oct, during Kapamba's 'peak season', the camp's rates include all drinks, except for imported wines and top-end spirits. During the 'green season' - from mid April to 31 May, and from 1 Nov to 2 Jan – no drinks are included, and travellers will need to settle their bar account directly with the camp when they leave.

Children

Age restrictions: Children under 12 years of age are not allowed at camp. It's up to the guides discretion if children 12 years and older will be allowed on walking safaris.

Activities: None

Equipment: The camp could put an extra bed into a chalet if a child would prefer to share with their parents. Alternatively, their twin beds are in fact big enough for a child to share with an adult.

Generally recommended for children: No – not for children under 12 years

Central communications

Power supply: None

Communications: The camp is lit by paraffin lanterns. There are no plugs in the chalets. Batteries can be handed to the camp manager for charging in the kitchen - by car batteries. (3 pin UK plugs only)

TV & radio: Radio only.

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Medical care: The closet doctor is at Flatdogs (a camp at the Mfuwe Gate) – which is several hours' drive away during the day. The nearest clinic is at Mfuwe.

Dangerous animals: High Risk

Security measures: You're not allowed to walk around the camp on your own after dark as animals do roam around freely. A guide will escort you to and from your chalet. While we were at Kapamba there was an elephant in and round the camp. You also need to look where you're walking… I almost stepped on a puff-adder!

Fire safety: The camp does not have any fire extinguishers.

Extras

Disabled access: Not Possible

Laundry facilities: Laundry is included but it does not include your smalls. Washing power is provided in your bathroom.

Accepted payment: Kapamba can not accept any payments. Payments are made at the main lodge, Mfuwe Lodge.

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