Read 2 traveller reviews of San Camp

San Camp, the smaller, satellite sister camp of Jack's Camp, is only open from April through to the end of October. It's set in a sparse forest of real fan palms, in grasslands on the edge of Ntwetwe Pan, overlooking the awesome Makgadikgadi Pans National Park.

Visiting most recently in May 2007, we absolutely loved San Camp – with its very simple, relaxed atmosphere and incredible feeling of space. It has a vast 360 degree horizon and we were sure that we could actually see the curve of the earth when looking out onto the pan. While we were there we were treated to the spectacle of the full moon rising as the sun was setting.

The environment here is similar to that around Jack's Camp, as are its activities. They aim to give an understanding of the area's geology, archaeology and anthropology, as well as an opportunity to observe its wildlife. You'll find nature drives and walks (some guided by Bushmen trackers), night drives, and visits to sites of archaeological interest, including Chapman's Baobab, considered to be the largest and oldest tree in Africa at an estimated three thousand years old.

When the season permits, 4WD quad bikes can be used to explore the surrounding saltpans without damaging their fragile crust. This was a real highlight of our trip – having been taught how to wrap our kikoys á la Jack Bousfield, we set off in convoy – and drove and drove and drove right into the Ntwetwe Pan, which covers an area the size of Switzerland. It's awe-inspiringly enormous and the horizon seems to melt into the sky.

Our extremely knowledgeable guide, Kevin, explained the historical geology of the pans – they are the most visible remnants of a superlake that was formed more than five million years ago. Makgadikgadi was once a superlake some 30m deep, covering a massive area of over thirty thousand square miles. The lake started to dry up as recently as 10,000 years ago, due to climactic shifts. As the lake dried up more and more, the surface became pans with a glittering salt crust.

But Makgadikgadi is not always dry. The pans often fill with water during the rains, from mid-November, and may retain their water as late as April or May. The "thirstlands" are then transformed into great sheets of water, which attract a spectacular array of waterbirds and trigger dramatic migrations of wildebeest and zebra.

We split up and spread out for a walk on the pans to see what we could find – and came back with an assortment of stone age tools which are scattered over the pan, left over from the time the lake shore was colonized.

(We recommend that if you visit San Camp, you stay for three nights; two nights here is too short.)
In recent years, researchers have been studying a den of brown hyena and also a family of meerkats in the area of San Camp. Both have become habituated to human observers, which allows for some exceptionally close and relaxed sightings of both species.

The main area of San is a simple, white canvas tent, and inside you'll find a long table with chairs, surrounded by bookcases. There's an interesting collection of tortoise shells, arrow heads and other artefacts displayed around the edge of the room.
San has six Meru-style tents, spread out quite widely, and facing the pan. These are cream-coloured, comfortable, and each has an en-suite bucket shower and a flush toilet. In the bathroom is an extensive range of toiletries.

The rooms are very comfortable with high beds giving a great view of the pans, a canvas set of shelves with a pile of towels each, a desk with water and peanuts and two trunks at the end of each bed. Lighting is simple, using traditional old spirit lamps which give a gentle glow.

Click on a link for more details of:
Safari Tent at San Camp

Lodge overview

Lodge type: Safari

No. of bedrooms: 6 Safari Tents

Season: April to November (depending

Ideal length of stay: 3 nights is ideal here; more if you're keen.

Central facilities: San Camp's main area is a white canvas tent, simple and open-sided, topped with a silvery moon and a golden sun on the pinnacles of the tent poles. Inside you'll find a long table with canvas directors chairs, and surrounded by bookcases (of an interesting square design) crammed with old books. Photographs of Jack Bousfield with his trademark kikoi and pipe sitting astride a desert quadbike line the walls of the tent, and animal skulls (including an impressive collection of leopard tortoise shells bleached by the sun), arrow heads and other artefacts are on display in the many display cabinets dotted around the edge of the room. Reached by a sandy path is a guest communal loo, and further to the edge of the main tent is a fire pit surrounded by comfortable canvas directors chairs. There is no shop as such although the kikoys left in the rooms are available to buy.

Geographics

Location: Kalahari's Salt Pans, Botswana

Directions: Fly in from Maun (1 hr flight) then 20 minute transfer in dry season, 50 minute transfer in the wet season

Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel

Owner: Uncharted Africa

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: On our most recent visit, the food at San was consistently excellent. A light breakfast of toast, freshly-cooked muffins, fruit and cereal, along with tea and coffee is served prior to your early morning game activity. Brunch is then offered at around 11 o'clock – on our latest visit, one of the brunches we were served was a delicious fillet steak on a bed of cannellini beans. Tea is then served at around 4 o'clock, and is usually a sweet or savoury snack - we had melt-in-the-mouth shortbread the first day, and mini chicken puff pies the next. Also served is refreshing iced tea or lemonade, clearly home-made and with a twist of fresh mint in the glasses. The dishes served at dinner were delicious – a rich chicken dish with seasonal vegetables and then the following night – ostrich steak! We couldn't fault the food at San.

Dining style: Group Meals

Dining locations: Indoor Dining

Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included

Drinks included: Yes except champagne, premium brands etc

Special interests

Birdwatching: During the rainy season, Botswana's salt pans often fill with water to become shallow, saline lakes. Algae blooms and with it a species of tiny brine shrimp flourish and multiply – attracting an array of migrant water birds. It's a fascinating time to visit (even if the flamingos, pelicans and waders which are often talked about tend to come to Sua Pan, far from San Camp). - See more of our suggestions of the best places for Birdwatching

Traditional Cultures: We went for a walk with the San bushmen which was nothing short of magical. We were accompanied by five bushmen and watching and listening to them was absolutely fascinating. Their deep knowledge and love of the bush was gently imparted, and watching them play a traditional tribal game at the end was a highlight. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for Traditional Cultures

Walking: Though San Camp is in a harsh and dry environment, we really enjoyed a walk with the San bushmen here - which was magical. They led us out across the grasslands, and we stopped to look at bushes and trees that had medicinal qualities, and to dig for various roots and tubers which could be eaten, or stored water inside them. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for Walking

Children

Attitude towards children: Children are welcome at San Camp.

Age restrictions: No age limit, but any children visiting are expected to have common sense.

Activities: None.

Equipment: None.

Generally recommended for children: We'd recommend San Camp for children of 12 years of age and over.

Notes: Whilst not in an area of prolific game, lion and other dangerous game (like honey badgers!) do sometimes pass through the camp – and so children should always be supervised closely.

Central communications

Power supply: None

Communications: The camp has radio communications with Maun, and to its sister-camp, Jack's Camp.

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Medical care: The managers have first-aid training, and the closest doctor is in Maun (an hour's flight).

Dangerous animals: Moderate Risk

Security measures: Guests are escorted to and from their rooms in the evenings after dark and in the mornings if it is dark. There is an emergency foghorn in the rooms.

Fire safety: The rooms and the main area have fire extinguishers.

Extras

Disabled access: On Request

Laundry facilities: Included. Laundry takes 24 hours as it is taken to Jack's Camp to be laundered.

Money: There are no safes in the tents; valuables should be given to the camp manager to lock away for you.

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