The tents at San Camp are a very traditionally-styled, pale khaki canvas Meru tent. On the 'stoop' (the front veranda) of each tent are two comfortable chairs, a washstand and a highly polished copper basin and jug, which is filled with hot water each morning.

Inside is a desk, upon which is a flask of water, peanuts and information about the camp. The beds are extremely high and very comfortable with crisp cotton sheets and warm blankets – from the beds there is a great view of the pans through the canvas netting windows of the tent. There is a canvas set of shelves and two initialed, leather-and-wood trunks - one at the end of each bed.

In the room is a pile of towels for each guest and rather lovely personal Kikoys (East African printed cotton cloths that double as a sarong or a headscarf, and are particularly useful when out quad-biking.)

There's also a wooden box containing mosquito sprays – one for the room, and one for personal protection, and a foghorn-type alarm for medical emergencies during the night.

The tents at San camp are lit very simply, using traditional old spirit lamps, which give a gentle glow and combine with the antique furniture to give it an almost 1920s feel.

The bathrooms at San are en-suite and open to the sky. Each has a flush loo and a bucket shower, which is filled with hot water – usually at 3pm each day.

On a table in the bathroom is a wonderful range of toiletries including the brilliantly named “Undergarment Purification Potion” (for washing your smalls), and one of the best moisturisers we've ever tried. Shampoo, conditioner and soap is also provided, with its own little wooden box to protect it from the pied crows, for whom it is a delicacy!

Whilst in the bathroom at night, don't fail to look up: the skies are huge here, and very clear and unpolluted – whilst here we spotted Orion, Scorpius (often called Scorpio), Canis Major … and many shooting stars too.

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