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The Retreat
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The Retreat

 - Selous Game Reserve, Tanzania

The Retreat is one of the newest camps in the Selous Game Reserve and is totally different to any other camp here. In fact it is totally different to any other camp we have seen in Tanzania! It is a safari camp and is partly focused on wildlife viewing, but it puts a strong emphasis on being a place for relaxation.

Located in a remote western part of the northern Selous, well away from most other camps and lodges and on a long stretch of the Ruaha River, surrounded by combretum woodlands. A mix of Feng Shui, luxurious surroundings and the soulful ideology of the owners has resulted in a peaceful place with very much a holistic outlook. A lot of care and attention has gone into the design of The Retreat. The owners hope that as well as enjoying the safari activities, the guests feel they have escaped to a 'retreat'.

The Retreat design and décor uses a wonderful mix of influences, many dating back to east Africa's trading heyday – when this region's prosperity was built on slaves and spices. Arab, Indian, north Africa and European influences mix here and result in a look that is reminiscent to the melting pot of design that's so often seen on Zanzibar.

The main building at The Selous Retreat has been built in the style of a fort, taking its inspiration from a military look-out point that was located on this site during the first world war. However, in keeping with the Arab design, it feels more like an Arab fort than a military outpost. The front door is an impressive and intricately carved 200 year-old door from Rajasthan.

Its main area is partly open and partly covered. Under the covered area, sofas and chairs covered in fine silk fabrics are set around stunning carved wooden tables. This shady spot captures the breeze and is a cool place for relaxing in the heat of the day.

For those who want to get a bit of sun, the outside area has plenty of loungers set around a lovely infinity pool. The views from here over the Ruaha River are stunning.

Up a flight of stairs on a higher level – like the 'ramparts' of a fort – is the dinning area and bar. The dining area is covered by white billowing fabrics. The bar is open to the sun so in the evening you can come and enjoy a sundowner in the warm evening light.

The Spa
All treatments are done using products made from natural ingredients, and all are an extra cost. A typical 30-minute massage cost US$50 when we were last at The Retreat, in October 2008.

The tents at The Retreat are all broadly similar in design, though there are three slightly different categories.

The six Hill Tents are the simplest. Set up on top of the hill right by the central building – they share the same wonderful view as the pool and dining area. Each of these tents sits on a 100m² of teak platform, and multiple layers of billowing silk, mosquito gauze and canvas mean that you can have the tent open to the views or closed in for privacy. The ceiling is also draped in silk inlaid with fine silver stars – in an effort to emulate the feeling of sleeping under the stars.

The dark, high-quality wooden furniture in the room is Zanzibarian in style. Each tent has a large wardrobe, writing desk, coffee station and a pair of lounge chairs. In front of each tent is a beautiful brass or copper bath, which is open to the views from the top of the hill.

Through a white silk curtain at the back of each tent, you will find an en suite bathroom with a flush toilet. Also a washbasin made from semi-precious stones. such as tigers eye or amethyst, or maybe of stylishly beaten metal. The open shower is in the middle of the room, and its tray is made from a stunning piece of rose sandstone. The aim of the bathroom's design is to use lots of the earth's elements to create a peaceful ambience. Complementary bathroom products made from fruits and oils from Madagascar and Zanzibar are included here.

A short drive from the main area of The Retreat and down on the edge of the river, are the four River Tents. These all have the same interiors as the Hill Tents, but they also have a private plunge pool and loungers to relax in.

An even further drive, the two tents at Hippo Point really form a separate satellite camp. Again, the tents here are of the same design as the others, and both are centered on a swimming pool and bar area. Guests staying here can choose to either head up to the main lodge for dinner, or eat privately here – in the exclusive atmosphere of their own small camp.

The activities from the Retreat include safari drives in 4x4 vehicles, safari walks, boat safaris on the Ruaha River and line fishing. There is also the option to fly-camp and don't forget about the spa!

In Conclusion, the Retreat's philosophy is to use natural elements to create a relaxing safari. In constructing the camp, they have paid great attention to detail and not spared any expense. However, in focusing so strongly on the relaxation and 'spa' aspects of the camp, we feel that this has resulted in the safari element taking second place.

For keen safari goers heading to the Selous, seeking as much wildlife viewing as possible – this might not be the place. However, if you want to relax in a peaceful and beautiful camp, with safaris on offer, then it could be a perfect choice.

Lodge overview
Lodge type: Safari
No. of bedrooms: 12 tents
Season: June to March
Ideal length of stay: 4 nights – 5 if you want to fly camp.

Geographics
Location: Selous Game Reserve, Tanzania
Directions: The Retreat is a 45-minute flight from Dar and a 30-minute drive from Simbazi airstrip (its nearest airstrip).
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel
Owner: Independent/Owner-run
Staff: Camp/Lodge Manager: Uma

Food & drink
Usual board basis: Full Board
Food quality: Broadly speaking the food at The Retreat when we last visited was very good – with a varied menu and tasty fresh food. Though we particularly liked the imaginative way in which it was served, often in beautiful Kitendela glassware.

Breakfast offered three courses of fruit with fruit juice tea & coffee, followed by muesli and yoghurt, then toast, pasties and pancakes. The mueslie was served in a stunning and ornate glass and metal mug – a great example of the attention to detail paid here.

Lunch is also three courses. When we were last there in October 2008 we had a starter of cold cucumber soup on one day and a spicy gazpacho on the second, the main course was a seafood pasta or a niçoise salad, then for desert we had a fresh fruit salad on our first day, and they spoiled us with a rich fruit mousse on our second.

For dinner we had a hearty cream of tomato soup to start, a spicy chicken stew with rice and fresh vegetables for a main, followed by a cashew nut bread and butter pudding.
Dining style: Inidividual Tables
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Room service: Yes – each room has a walki-talki so you can call and ask for whatever you want.
Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included
Drinks included: Some drinks are included at The Retreat (such as the house wines soft drinks, and local beers) but all spirits, cellar wines and champagne are extra. A bottle of wine is typically about $25.

Special interests
Wellbeing: The Retreat isn't just a safari camp which happens to have a lovely open-air spa right on the Ruaha River; it's really been designed as a well-being retreat which incorporates an excellent spa ... plus the opportunity for safari activities. The variety of treatments here includes a Vichy shower and sound therapy. For those looking for a safari with a holistic approach, the Retreat is perfect!
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for wellbeing in Tanzania

Children
Attitude towards children: The Retreat welcomes families, and has one tent specifically designed for children.
Age restrictions: There are no age restrictions at The Retreat.
Activities: Child minding is offered – using staff from the housekeeping team who have not generally been trained as child minders.
Equipment: The Retreat does have high-chairs and baby cots.
Generally recommended for children: Like most safari camps, we wouldn't recommend The Retreat for young children, but it would be fine for older children who take an interest in wildlife.
Notes: Parents must be aware that children are their responsibility at all times; they will need constant supervision.

Central communications
Communications: There is intermittent cell phone reception from the roof of the main lodge and guests can use the office email for emergencies.
TV & radio: No

Health & safety
Malarial area: Yes
Medical care: The Retreat has a first aid kit on site and links to flying doctors. Staff are first aid trained – and the owner of the camp is a doctor so does frequent refresher courses.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: Two askaris and guides to escort guests at night.
Fire safety: Fire break around the camp and extinguishers all around. One in each tent.

Extras
Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: Full Laundry Service - Included
Money: The camp cannot offer any currency exchange facilities.
Accepted payment: The Retreat can only accept payment in US dollars cash. It does not accept any credit cards.



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