Greystoke Camp: Our full report

Greystoke Mahale is a superb little camp with very stylish thatched bandas. Each is raised slightly on decking and set back into the vegetation, peeking out onto on an idyllic white beach. Inside each are sumptuous beds under mosquito netting and lovely wooden furniture. Thoughtful touches are provided such as kikois for the beach, bowls to wash the sand from your feet, bath and beach towels and comfortable loungers to enjoy the view. Each stylish double-storey wooden banda has a raised viewing deck with day-beds, and links into a private bathroom where there's a flush toilet and a hot shower. In the centre of the beach is the camp's landmark, double-storey dining and lounge area. Off to one side, amongst the vegetation and rocks, is a separate sunset bar.

Tracking chimps from Greystoke is very professional; you're always accompanied by one of the camp's expert guides and a scout from the park. Crucially, your guide is someone who knows all of these chimps individually, by name, and can explain their behaviour with reference to what's happened to that particular chimp in the past. This raises your whole experience beyond simply watching wildlife, and into the realm of watching individuals and their social conduct. This makes it, for us, one of the most riveting wildlife spectacles in Africa.

After a morning trying to understand the chimps, spend a lazy afternoon kayaking on Lake Tanganyika, or sailing on a beautiful old dhow, snorkelling, swimming, fishing and drinking as the sun sets. With a great staff team, superb food and an idyllic location, Greystoke is a very special camp indeed.

Geographics

Location: Mahale Mountains National Park, Tanzania

Special interests

Honeymoons: One of the continent's most original and spectacular places for a honeymoon - and reassuringly expensive too!

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Beach holidays: It's on a freshwater lake, but Greystoke's beach is spectacular white sand!

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Photographic: Perhaps Africa's best place for seeing, and photographing, chimps in the wild

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Walking safaris: Mahale's chimp-tracking trips can be quite strenous walks, including some steep forest paths.

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Wildlife safaris: Simply the best place for watching chimps and other primates in the forests of central Africa.

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Children

Generally recommended for children: No

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Extras

Disabled access: Not Possible