Hyena Safari: Day-by-day

Colourful and vibrant in design, the Avani Victoria Falls is within strolling distance of the Falls themselves. It’s this location that is the most compelling reason to stay here. Not only is there direct access to the Falls from the hotel’s grounds, but the entry fee is included for guests – so you can visit as many times as you like during your stay.

The hotel’s sprawling grounds come with a further surprise, too, for they fall within Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. So don’t be surprised to see zebra or antelope grazing as you wander over to breakfast, or giraffe craning above as you explore one of the hotel’s nature trails.

Making the most of the grounds, every room has a view, either from a balcony or direct from its own french windows, the closely cropped grass in vivid contrast to the bold oranges and geometric designs of the interiors.

As for the buildings, their terracotta walls, castellated roofline, narrow windows and reed-covered terraces wouldn’t be out of place in Morocco, exuding a warmth that is offset by cool interiors.

"it was wild to sit by the pool and have zebras bump your lounge chair"

AlicefromKansas

Arrived 6 Jun 2023, 2 nights

A huge swimming pool plays its part in keeping things cool, too, as do refreshing drinks from the outside bar. With a choice of cafés and restaurants within the complex, and a proper activity centre, it’s a winning combination. See our full report on Avani Victoria Falls

To look out over the Luangwa River from Nkwali’s open-fronted chalets is to feel at one with the bush. It’s a oneness that is enhanced by the mature mahogany, ebony and sausage trees whose shade shelters the little camp.

High ceilings and flagstone floors in the six stone-and-thatch chalets help to keep them cool, too, while en-suite bathrooms with open-air double showers emphasise the connection with the environment – in total privacy, of course.

The theme continues in the open-sided “chitenge”, where comfortable chairs and a small bar merge with a wooden deck over the river. Delicious meals are served here, or in the thatched dining area, close to the camp’s waterhole, while loungers around the small pool offer yet more options for relaxation – or watching the birds.

While it’s the natural world that underpins the camp’s ambience, its location, a relatively short drive from the small airport, makes it exceptionally accessible – even during the “emerald” season when most camps in the South Luangwa are closed.

"Great camp with excellent guiding... excellent Leopard sightings throughout"

M and DfromBrockenhurst

Arrived 2 Oct 2023, 3 nights

Nkwali’s other trump card is a private pontoon across the river into the national park, where you’ll seek out wildlife with expert guides on 4WD game drives and short walking safaris. See our full report on Nkwali

This laid-back camp, steeped in South Luangwa history, has quality guiding and dining in a beautiful riverside setting. Nsefu was opened in 1951, the first camp in the South Luangwa and the brainchild of the renowned conservationist and guide, Norman Carr. Norman pioneered walking safaris here to benefit conservation and communities long before responsible tourism became a buzzword.

In the intervening years, the camp has preserved its history in its unique and unassuming charm. The bar and lounge have old black-and-white photos of Carr's safari days, and the six small rondavels, unique in the Valley, retain their original characteristics with the addition of small terraces that look out towards the Luangwa River.

Nsefu's dining room was gobbled up as the river changed course, so they now offer “nomadic dining” depending on the season – under the stars, under the shade of trees, or even a private dinner for two on top of a huge dormant termite mound – far more romantic than it sounds!

The camp's location, within the Nsefu Sector, features superb wildlife, and the camp itself provides some fantastic sightings in the dry season, with huge herds of buffalo and elephants meandering across the river. Pukus seem to be ever-present, quietly eating the crimson petals of the camp's mature sausage trees, and birds continually dip into the camp waterhole

"Service and guiding are exceptional... Leopard sightings were amazing"

M and DfromBrockenhurst

Arrived 8 Oct 2023, 7 nights

Nsefu’s laid-back charm continues to entice guest back time and time again. See our full report on Nsefu

Kaya Mawa is a beautiful lodge, a perfect example of barefoot luxury. But it’s much more than that… It’s the kind of place where you just melt effortlessly into your surroundings and never really want to leave. Whether you’re enjoying all the various water sports like kayaking, diving and kite surfing, indulging in a spa treatment overlooking the lake or just chilling on the beach with the lovely lodge Labrador, Keira, it has a fabulous relaxing vibe.

The gorgeous rooms are designed for lingering, each one unique and quirky, built into the rocks with whitewashed or exposed stone walls, or directly on the beach and made of eucalyptus poles.

The bar, lounge and dining area reflect the local character, with old dhows as sofas and plenty of bright blue and coral upholstery. The food here has won many awards and it’s hardly surprising – every meal seems to make the taste buds sing.

"a beautiful setting on a lovely beach... the food was exceptional"

B & GfromCalifornia

Arrived 28 Sep 2019, 4 nights

If you do one activity, visit the nearby Katundu artisan workshop, which provides many of the artworks and soft furnishings in the lodge and was set up by its former owner to empower local women. Kaya Mawa also works closely with local people here in healthcare, education and conservation of the lake. See our full report on Kaya Mawa