Tena Tena: Our full report

Run by Robin Pope Safaris , Tena Tena is in the remote Nsefu Sector, on the north side of South Luangwa National Park in an area rich with game. In August 2012 the camp was moved to a new location, about a kilometre upstream from its previous site, but it remains on the edge of the Luangwa River. It focuses on excellent guiding and flexible activities, with personal service and attention, all in very comfortable surroundings.

Tena Tena is a few hours' drive north of their main camp, Nkwali, which is in the Mfuwe area, and reasonably close to Nsefu, its sister bushcamp, and the only other permanent camp in the Nsefu Sector. All of these combine really well with each other, and the more adventurous may even like to combine a permanent camp with a longer walking mobile safari.

The camp is tented, and it is perhaps this that helps Tena Tena to retain a 'close to nature' feel, with both the tents and the main area tucked away in a shady mahogany grove with views over the Luangwa River. The new camp is very stylish and of high quality yet it still retains the charm of the old Tena Tena.

The main area, split over two levels, is built under a vast tented roof supported by rustic poles, with views across the river. The upper level offers a comfortable place to relax with lovely wooden furniture with cream and ochre cushions. Nearby is a large dining table with directors’ chairs where most meals are enjoyed. There is also a large wooden bar, a good spot to chat to fellow guests after game activities or before dinner. From the lower level, built-in seating with ample cushions in the same cream and ochre colour scheme affords a great spot to watch the sun setting over the Luangwa River – if you are not out on a game activity!

Sandy pathways lead to Tena Tena’s five spacious tents, each set far apart from the other in a private shady location. One of these, designated the honeymoon tent, is set even further away and thus affords more privacy.
Every tent has a veranda, with a couple of comfy armchairs and views of the river. The front of the tents can be rolled up so that you can view the river from the comfort of your bed.

Inside, the bedrooms are decorated in neutral safari tones, which are stylish but very subtle. Locally made straw mats lie on the polished concrete floors and a couple of kikois are provided – on hot days it is great to wet these and relax in the shade with them wrapped around you! Guests will also find Maglite torches, mosquito repellent and drinking water by the beds, and a plug point for charging batteries.

The king-size bed is located in the centre of the tent with a polished concrete headboard sporting two solar-powered reading lamps. Behind the headboard is an area for storing luggage as well as ample hanging space and shelves.

Through a flap to one side of each tent is an open-air bathroom, with a flush toilet, double basins and hot-and-cold shower. Toiletries are also provided.

Tena Tena's activities include a choice of walking safaris, 4WD game safaris and night drives. Typically there are two activities per day, each lasting around 3–4 hours and led by an expert guide, and for each you'll have a choice of what you do. All walking safaris are accompanied by an armed scout, as well as a fully qualified guide; the guiding standards are very high here.

Tena Tena combines really well with its sister camp, Nsefu. If you are staying at both camps then it is possible to do a half-day walking safari between the two.

The more adventurous may also wish to spend one or two nights at Robin Pope Safaris bushcamp. Speak to us if you would like to include this experience in your visit to Tena Tena.

Those looking to experience something of the local culture can also combine Tena Tena with a trip to Kawaza Village – which was originally set up with the help of Robin Pope Safaris.

Our view

Tena Tena manages to strike a balance between being simple yet stylish, without compromising at all on comfort and quality. For those looking for a touch of wilderness and superb guiding all housed in a good-quality tented camp, Tena Tena is an excellent choice.

Geographics

Location: South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

Ideal length of stay: We recommend a minimum stay here of three nights, perhaps preceded by two to three nights at Tena Tena’s sister camp, Nkwali.

Directions: Fly to Mfuwe Airport and transfer by road to camp, the transfer taking approximately one hour.

Key personnel

Owner: Robin Pope Safaris

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: We’ve visited Tena Tena many times and each time their meals could not be faulted.

Breakfast is normally served around the campfire before an early-morning activity. It often includes hot porridge, cereals and bread toasted over the coals. Fresh fruit and tea and coffee are also on offer.

Brunch is served at around 11.30am or midday, depending on the time everyone returns from the morning activity. You can expect light salads, couscous and a selection of hot dishes. We loved the beef kofta, beef Thai salad with courgette and grilled lemon chicken on our last visit in September 2012.

Dinner starts with a few relaxed drinks around the campfire or at the bar, then moves on to the dining table, beautifully set up either in the main area or outside under the stars. When we were last here the starter of blue cheese and pear salad was particularly memorable, as were the handmade fishcakes served with lemon mayonnaise as a main course. You can also expect an indulgent dessert, rounded off with coffee.

Dining style: Group Meals

Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining

Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included

Drinks included: Soft drinks, house wine and local spirits are included in the rates, but note that fine wines, champagne and imported spirits and liqueurs are charged as extras.

Children

Attitude towards children: Tena Tena is happy to accommodated children 12 years and over.

Equipment: None

Generally recommended for children: No – this is a remote bushcamp with quite an adult atmosphere and we feel that it is suited only to older, sensible children. Families with children may prefer to stay at Luangwa Safari House or Robin's House which both offer more privacy for family groups.

Notes: Tena Tena is a remote bushcamp with quite an adult atmosphere. Families with children may prefer to stay at Luangwa Safari House or

Central communications

Power supply: Solar Power

Communications: Tena Tena is in constant radio contact with its sister camp, Nkwali, which has a landline phone as well as internet. There is no cellphone reception at Tena Tena.

TV & radio: Tena Tena has no TVs or radios

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Medical care: There is a doctor based at Flatdogs Camp, about an hour’s drive from Tena Tena. First-aid kits are provided in the camp vehicles and all guides are trained in first aid.

Dangerous animals: High Risk

Security measures: There are two night watchmen at Tena Tena, and safes are provided in all the rooms

Fire safety: There are fire buckets at each tent and extinguishers in the main areas.

Extras

Disabled access: On Request

Laundry facilities: A complimentary laundry service is included. Items are hand washed by male staff and then line dried. This does not include ladies’ underwear, which you would need to wash yourself; washing powder is provided in the bathrooms.

Money: No exchange facilities are available.