Chole Mjini is one of the most original small lodges that we know in Tanzania. It stands on Chole Island, just off the coast of Mafia Island, which is a peaceful hideaway in an area that sees little tourism, and as a result is full of charm.
The owners, Jean and Anne de Villiers, built Chole Mjini with a very clear ideology, which contributes hugely to its atmosphere. The lodge was built to be environmentally sound, and to give real benefits back to the local community – the ultimate 'eco-lodge', built before the term became so commonplace and over-used.
A walk through the nearby village will show you how much Chole has contributed to local life – including building a local dispensary, a primary school and an adult education centre. U$10 per person per night goes directly toward helping the community and funding projects.
In addition to its developmental credentials – Chole is a beautiful lodge, in a historical location. Its spacious communal areas are set in lush tropical gardens; wandering around, these winding paths lead past the intriguing ruins of Chole Town. Look back in history to understand that Chole Island was settled as early as the 16th Century, and it was an important trading port in the 19th Century. Still the ruined walls and building of the old town can still be seen dotted around the lodge's gardens and the small port area, often wrapped with vines and the roots of fig trees (there are some amazing specimens!).
Six of the rooms at Chole Mjini are tree-houses, set on platforms high up in baobab trees. The seventh room is slightly more conventional; it stands on the ground, with an en suite bathroom and the only flushing toilet on the island!
Chole's tree-houses are a unique feature of the lodge, and showcase the lodge's high levels of quality; these amazing wooden structures, often two storeys high, have clearly been built by expert craftsmen – and all are slightly different.
All of Chole's tree-houses share one trait though; their general lack of modern conveniences. Expect storm lanterns and torches rather than electricity; composting long-drop toilets rather than flushing ones; and a shower that is heated by lighting a small, but very effective, paraffin burner. There's no air-con or fans, but chalets are all open-sided. Being raised up, they catch a natural breeze through for most of the year – and their openness lends them a slightly 'outdoorsy' feel.
If you like the sound of these rustic features – then staying in a tree-house at Chole is an experience you won't forget. Chole has quite a following; some visitors are almost fanatical in their liking for it! However, if you need your mod-cons to be happy, best avoid Chole. Instead one of Mafia's more conventionally comfortable lodges; look at Pole Pole or Kinasi Lodge, both on the nearby Mafia Island.
Activities are very much a part of most visitors time at Chole Mjini; it's a place to do things, as well as to relax. They're all very flexible, and a lot depends of the tide, and what the various guests want to do!
The Chole team usually organize a complementary dhow trip each day. This typically sails to a remote sand-bar, perhaps an hour or so away, where you can relax on the beach with sea all around you. Often these have coral reefs around them, and you can dip into snorkel when you wish – or sometimes snorkelling will be arranged on the way to or from the sand-bar.
We really enjoyed these trips, and the lack of a private beach next to the lodge was never an issue.
All of the waters around Chole lie within the Mafia Marine Park, which is zoned to give different areas different levels of protection. Chole Mjini has a fully-equipped PADI dive centre, and Jean is a very experienced diving instructor, who has been diving in the Mafia Archipelago for many years. (He's also been known to lecture on coral reef ecology!)
With advanced notice, you can do a PADI course here – and Chole Bay is ideal; it is shallow (mostly less than 20m) and relatively protected, yet also has some good corals and marine life.
More advanced divers will explore outside the bay – where various reefs, passes and wall-dives go down to about 30m, with even more spectacular marine life. Having dived here and all around the Zanzibar Archipelago, we regard the diving here as amongst the very best found off Tanzania – and probably the best for sightings of large individual fish. (We've seen potato cod, giant grouper and white-tipped reef shark on recent dives here.)
Back at the lodge, Chole Mjini's close relationship with the village means that it's a great base from which to explore local life – either by yourself or with a guide. Wander around in the late-afternoon and there's usually the most amazing, huge colony of (large!) fruit bats starting to wake up and take off for their nightly forays onto Mafia Island!
For something completely different – ask us about staying on Chole's dhow. You can spend the night out in Chole Bay! The boat is suitable for two to four people, and there is a shower and toilet on board. You would head out with four staff, for what would be a truly Swahili experience. Though bear in mind, that for those looking for a romantic night – this might not be it. Sharing a boat with four people or more is sociable and entertaining, but certainly not romantic.
In conclusion, Chole Mjini can be a perfect place to get away: a quiet and un-spoilt spot, yet quite social – with a fantastic community atmosphere. It is a high-quality lodge, although it has deliberately chosen to avoid many of the mod-cons that we take for granted – and we think it's all the better for it!
Ideal length of stay: Four days or more – especially if you are a keen diver or just love relaxing.
Central facilities: Chole Mjini is set amongst lush tropical gardens and the old ruins of Chole Town which dates back to 1820. Sandy paths wind from the island's port (or more accurately the beach) through the ruins, past the rooms and to the central areas of Chole.
A large open-sided banda serves as Chole's lounge and dining area. Here you will find comfy sofas moulded out of stone, and strewn with sumptuous cushions. The thatched roof and polished stone floors help to keep the area cool – as does the sea-breeze which passes through the open sides. Odd bits of African furniture, mixed with Arab antiques give Chole a beautiful yet simple Swahili style.
From the lounge you can look out over the mangroves at the sea beyond, or perhaps indulge in a game of bao. Boards of this favourite East African game are dotted around the lounge – it's fun to learn, and the staff will happily teach you how to play.
On a built-in shelf behind the largest sofa, there is a book shelf with a good array of books to read.
Above the lounge and dining area is a small bar, built into the rafters of the thatched roof, where guests usually congregate in the evenings for pre-dinner drinks. This has a few sofas – and an incongruous old-fashioned bicycle is attached to a cross-beam!
From the lounge it is only a short walk to Chole's small harbour, where a number of dhows are kept – for excursions and diving.
Directions: It is a 20-minute flight to Mafia and then a 45-minute drive to Utende Beach. From there it is a short 15-minute boat ride across Chole Bay to Chole Mjini. Please note that there is no jetty at Chole – you will need to wade a short distance in water, so wear clothes and shoes that you don't mind getting wet.
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer
Key personnel
Owner: Independent / Owner Run
Food & drink
Usual board basis: Full Board
Food quality: The food at Chole is very good and delightfully fresh when we last visited.
Breakfast usually consisted of fruit, plain and sweet bread, eggs and (usually) yoghurt made by the lodge team. Chole Mjini also offers a cooked breakfast – but don't expect any bacon or sausages. Chole is a traditional Muslim island, and so as a matter of respect they do not ask their team to cook pork.
Lunch was usually a variety of salads, vegetables and a meat dish. Lunch is light and tasty – all you would wish for on a hot day.
Dinner was then a sociable, three-course affair. All the guests get together in a 'diner-party' style atmosphere. Chole usually serves a set menu – though of course dietary requirements are always taken into consideration – and all the dishes are usually put in the centre of the table for guests to help themselves.
That said, private dinners are sometimes arranged for honeymooners (or anyone else who requests this!).
Dining style: Group Meals
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Room service: There is no room service here - apart from tea and coffee in the morning.
Drinks included: Drinks are not included – it is around $2 for a local beer or a spirit and then $1 for a soft drink.
Special interests
Family holidays: Jean and Anne brought up their children at Chole Mjini – and hence take a very positive, inclusive approach to families. The variety of things to do, and the space to explore, makes it a great place for older, more inquisitive children.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Family holidays
Honeymoons: Chole Mjini offers an unusual but totally magic and remote honeymoon destination; for honeymooners who want something different and to get away from it all.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Honeymoons
Beach Breaks: Chole Mjini's beaches are really a short dhow-ride away; they're isolated sand-bars in the Indian Ocean; remote stretches of sand uncovered by the tide and surrounded by coral reefs and the open ocean. Beaches don't come more magical, untouched or remote than this.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Beach Breaks
Diving & snorkelling: Chole Mjini founder, owner, and manager – Jean – is a highly experienced diver who knows Mafia's dive-sites well. Scuba diving in this marine reserve is a great, and if you come here in January or February, you might get the chance to swim with whale sharks!
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Diving & snorkelling
Traditional Cultures: Chole Mjini was built to benefit its local community, and local people also helped to build the lodge. It is a great place to visit if you value being able to interact with village life. Don't miss the walking tour of the village, and then wander around on your own at any time you wish.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Traditional Cultures
Wellbeing: Chole Mjini is a peaceful haven that works closely with the local community. It is perfect for those who are looking for something that is eco-conscious, and can give you a high 'feel-good' factor – though it doesn't have a 'spa'!
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Wellbeing
Children
Attitude towards children: Children over the age of two years old are welcome at Chole Mjini – this restriction is primarily due to the open sided tree houses, which would not be safe for very young children.
Age restrictions: No children under the age of two are allowed to stay at Chole Mjini
Activities: Child-minding can be arranged – though parents should be aware that a child-minder would be a local islander from the housekeeping team, and would not be specifically qualified.
Equipment: No
Generally recommended for children: We would not recommend Chole Mjini for very young children – the tree-houses are a slight hazard and the laid back nature of the lodge might leave the young feeling a little bored after a few days.
Central communications
Power supply: Solar Power
Communications: There is intermittent mobile phone reception at Chole Mjini
TV & radio: No radios or TVs here - you're in a wonderfully remote spot!
Health & safety
Malarial area: Yes
Medical care: Jean is a diving instructor so is first aid trained – for serious cases clients would need to fly to Dar es Salaam.
Dangerous animals: Low Risk
Security measures: There is a large wooden lock box in each room for valuables, in addition there are also askaris (guards) around the camp.
Fire safety: All of the building at Chole Mjini are open sided – so in cases of fire it would be straight-forward to exit any building.
Extras
Disabled access: Not Possible
Laundry facilities: Full Laundry Service - Included
Money: Chole Mjini does not offer any currency exchange.
Accepted payment: Because of Chole's remote location, Chole prefers guests to pay in cash, using US dollars, pounds or euros. There is a 6% charge for Visa, Mastercard and Amex credit cards; and they cannot accept travellers' cheques.
Chole Mjini Lodge review
A fantastic place. Location is fascinating and beautifully used (the tropical garden among the ruins). The tree houses are lovely, beautifully designed and truly unusual! The owner couple are absolute...
Useful links...
We want you to understand more about Chole Mjini Lodge. We're also confident that a trip there with us cost you the same or less than booking it any other way, even directly. So follow the links below.
Mafia Island page Chole Mjini doesn't have its own website – the lodge doesn't even have a phone! The owner, Jean, collects his email over a low-bandwidth radio connection. So talk to us if you want to learn more – or perhaps see this site for general information on the archipelago.
