Sandibe Safari Lodge: Our full report

Adjacent to Moremi Game Reserve, Sandibe Safari Lodge stands among towering stands of palm trees, thick riverine vegetation and several huge old baobabs. It's a lovely mix of forested areas interspersed with floodplains and permanent deep-water channels. The lodge itself occupies a linear stretch of land along the Santantadibe River (from where the lodge gets its name): a deep, wide channel leading to several beautiful lagoons.

You are acutely aware that there is wildlife all around you while staying at Sandibe and it is quite likely that you will be awoken by the sounds of the bush at day break – francolin, hippo and sometimes even elephant acting as your African alarm clocks! Baboons, vervet monkeys and squirrels entertain you while you enjoy your breakfast and there is also a resident colony of epauletted fruit bats which hang from the rafters of the main area.

Sandibe's two-storey main lounge and dining area is a soaring, open structure, somewhat reminiscent of a traditional tithe barn. The neutral colours, high ceilings and open plan give a light and breezy feel and the lodge is dotted with beautiful pieces of African art, and traditional reed baskets, some made by the lodge's staff. As at its sister camp, Nxabega Safari Camp, WiFi access is provided in this (and only this) part of the lodge. There’s also a guest laptop, though on our most recent visit in November 2011 this was in for repair after inquisitive monkeys had tried their hand at technology.

On the ground floor there is an appealing lounge area with a well-stocked fridge for helping yourself to drinks, and a covered dining area. That said, on our last visit to Sandibe, dinners were served outside, next to the open fire. In case of persistent rain, dinner is served individually in the rooms, as the dining area is very open to the elements. A wine cellar stocks not just house wines but premium wines and champagne too. There is also a well-stocked curio shop selling a range of items including traditional baskets, jewellery, African carvings, hats, T-shirts and toiletries.

Climb the stairs to the first floor and you will encounter more comfy chairs and sofas. From up here you get a better view of the colony of epauletted fruit bats that have made their home in the rafters.

A stone's throw from the lodge is a small splash pool built into a raised deck, which is partially shaded, and is dotted with sunloungers.

Sandibe's eight 'cottages' are of solid construction, each of them en suite and with an outside shower, and each facing the river, under a canopy of trees. Although they can seem rather dark, and views from the rooms are obscured by the surrounding bush and reed beds, this is well compensated for by raised private decks which allow broad vistas of the surrounding area.

The spacious cottage-style rooms are of stone construction, and have large gauze windows. A thatch roof, screeded flooring and ceiling fan keeps them cool in summer. Like the main area, they are decorated in neutral tones, and the comfortable beds sport rather unusual copper-coloured mosquito nets. There are electric lamps beside the beds, a built in desk and plenty of storage and hanging space. All the rooms have safes, charging facilities and hair dryers and you are also provided with bathrobes, toiletries, mosquito spray and coils which are lit nightly by the staff.

Outside each room are a couple of deck chairs on one level and, down a few steps, a small table with chairs. This is a great place to relax in the afternoons and the elevated shaded deck in front of the cottage maximises your chances of seeing game from the comfort of the lodge.

The wildlife in the area around Sandibe is generally good, with red lechwe, impala, tsessebe, kudu, zebra, wildebeest and plenty of giraffe. Buffalo and elephant are permanent residents. Lion and leopard are the dominant predators, but cheetah and hyena are not uncommon. The lodge even has a 'resident' elephant who is often on the paths or visiting the pool!

Sandibe is refreshingly flexible about the timing of activities, which include 4WD game drives (day and night) and bush walks. At the end of 2012, we learned that from January 2013 they will no longer be offering mokoro excursions or boating trips. Instead, these will be offered at Sandibe’s sister-camp, Nxabega Safari Camp. Guides are accompanied by trackers, which improves the chance of seeing the more elusive creatures, particularly on spotlit night drives. Our guide was very knowledgeable and positioned us well when photo opportunities arose during game drives.

On our last visit to Sandibe, we felt that the fairly new management team were still finding their feet, but the camp ran smoothly and was well maintained, and an army of friendly, helpful staff make sure you're very well looked after. In fact some may find the sheer number of staff to be a little imposing, but there are plenty of quiet, secluded areas to retreat to and feel as if you're totally alone.

Our view

Sandibe Safari Lodge is a substantial lodge by Botswana's standards, and its solid 'cottages' make it feel more permanent than most of the Delta's camps. However, this still isn't a large lodge and you definitely won't forget you're in the bush. From the baboons in the trees to the bats in the roof there is wildlife everywhere – and that's before you've even gone on one of Sandibe's many game-viewing activities. The guiding here is great and the staff very attentive.

Geographics

Location: Okavango Delta Safari Reserves, Botswana

Ideal length of stay: 2 or 3 nights

Directions: Guests fly in to Chitabe airstrip, from where the game-drive transfer to Sandibe takes approximately half an hour. You can transfer by road if you are staying in one of the lodges nearby (for example Chitabe Lediba or Chitabe Main Camp).

Key personnel

Owner: & Beyond (formerly CC Africa)

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: The food at Sandibe is excellent – well presented, varied and really tasty.

A light breakfast of toast, freshly cooked muffins, fruit and cereal, along with tea and coffee, is served prior to your early morning game activity.

Brunch, quite a substantial meal, is offered at around 11.00am. This includes a hot option which, on our latest visit, was vegetable pizza with pesto pasta, lentils with Chinese cabbage and a Greek salad along with fresh bread rolls and olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

You can expect tea at around 4.00pm with a savoury snack, refreshing iced tea, and a freshly baked cake or pie.

Weather permitting, a lamplit dinner is served under the stars in the boma; the setting is magical. During our most recent visit, the lamb kebabs with mashed potato and vegetables, followed by a crème caramel dessert, were the highlights.

Dining style: Individual Tables

Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining

Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included

Drinks included: Bottled water, soft drinks, local beers and spirits and a limited selection of (usually) South African red and white wines are included. Champagne and imported 'premium' wines and spirits cost extra and may need to be requested in advance.

Special interests

Solo Travel: Sandibe Safari Lodge is unusual amongst Okavango safari camps in that it does not usually charge a single supplement to solo travellers. Its atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, and activities (game drives and bush walks) provide great opportunities for sharing stunning wildlife experiences with like-minded visitors.

See more ideas for Solo Travel in Botswana

Birdwatching: Sandibe's birding is varied. Numerous waterbirds, including ducks, geese and teals, are very common, whilst more unusual specialities include long-winged falcons, slaty egrets, black coucals, black egrets and brown firefinches. Guests are provided with a birdlist for their own use on arrival.

See more ideas for Birdwatching in Botswana

Children

Attitude towards children: Generally children are welcome at Sandibe but please take into account the restrictions below. Children of 12 years of age and over are accepted. Children under this age may be accepted by prior arrangement, but generally children under 12 will not be able to participate in any of the game activities.

Equipment: No special equipment is available.

Generally recommended for children: Recommended for children of 12 years and over.

Notes: Sandibe is very open with dangerous wildlife in the area (elephants regularly wander through the camp). It is also open to the water.

Central communications

Power supply: Generator

Communications: There is no mobile reception, no direct phone or fax and no email – this is the bush! In an emergency radio contact can be made with the main office in Maun.

TV & radio: No television or radio.

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Medical care: All camp managers are first-aid trained and a comprehensive first-aid kit is kept at camp. In an emergency, the camp can arrange for clients to be flown out.

Dangerous animals: High Risk

Security measures: Because of the Okavango's large population of dangerous game, and the fact that Sandibe Safari Lodge is unfenced, guests are escorted to their rooms after dark. Alarms, sirens or whistles are provided in the rooms in case of an emergency.

Fire safety: There are extinguishers on the balconies of all rooms. There is no fire drill as such.

Extras

Disabled access: On Request

Laundry facilities: A full laundry service is included.

Money: No exchange facilities are offered. There are safe deposit boxes in the rooms. Mastercard and Visa credit cards are accepted. Diners and Amex are not, and nor are debit cards. No commission is charged on credit card transactions. Rand, £, $, Euros and Botswana Pula are accepted.