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Kaingo Camp

 - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
Read 10 traveller reviews of Kaingo Camp

Kaingo Camp is an excellent, owner-run camp overlooking the Luangwa River from beneath an old grove of ebony trees. Here, Derek and Jules Shenton and their wonderful team will make you feel incredibly welcome and go out of their way to give you the safari of your dreams. On a recent stay at Kaingo and Mwamba (its sister camp,) some very well travelled guests mentioned to us that Shenton Safaris is by far the best safari they've experienced. We tend to agree!

There are six simple chalets at Kaingo, all of which have uninterrupted river views and are decorated in earthy tones, creams and African print fabrics. Five of the chalets are brick with thatched roofs, and one of them is reed-and-thatch.

The chalets have slate floors, sturdy wooden furniture, stable doors, mesh windows (to keep the mosquitoes and insects out) solar power lanterns, African print dressing gowns and a wooden box to lock away your valuables. Each chalet has either twin or double beds with mosquito nets customized by Jules, and an en-suite bathroom with a shower and flushing toilet. Four of the chalets have outdoor baths under the shade of the trees overlooking the river; a great place to while away the afternoon!

Out of Kaingo's six chalets, two of these are referred to as their 'honeymoon suites'. The main difference between the honeymoon suites and standard chalets is the suites each have a skylight above the bed to watch the stars.

Suite #6 is the newest of these. It's a round chalet with the bedroom and bathroom in the same room, but they're separated by a low wall.
Suite #5 is at the opposite end of the camp and this is the reed-and-thatch chalet. It has a separate private en-suite bathroom; the same as the standard chalets. Both of these 'honeymoon suites' have an outdoor bath.

Kaingo's chitenge (main lounge and dining area) has open sides with an airy and cool feel to it. There's also an amazing bar made from a huge trunk of a leadwood tree – which has been in the camp since we first visited it, in 1995.

Activities at Kaingo include game drives (day and night) and walking safaris, all run by excellent guides. Not only is there a high density of game and bird life in the Kaingo area, you can enjoy the wildlife in comfort as Shenton Safaris have some of the most comfortable 4WD vehicles we've been in. Derek has also personally graded the roads in their area, so they're in a very good condition which adds extra comfort to your game drives. Kaingo provide bean bags and camera dust covers for keen photographers and they never take more than 2 guests per row of seats; so you're guaranteed a “window” seat.

Expect to see loads of elephants, giraffe, waterbuck, bushbuck, leopards (which were 'falling' out of the trees when we were there) lions (the Hollywood pride) buffalo, puku, impala and kudu. Our night drive was certainly one to remember… Derek managed to convince a civet that he was a mouse by imitating its squeak and coaxing it right up to the vehicle.

Kaingo also has quite a number (8 at last count) of stunning photographic hides; the carmine hide (best in September & October), which is a boat moored off a carmine colony; the hippo hide, which is inside the riverbank beside a deep hippo-filled pool; and the elephant hide, which is a platform up a tall, riverside tree – where elephants often cross the river.

These hides are frequented by the BBC, National Geographic, Discovery Channel and many independent film makers and photographers, including Frans Lanting and Andy Rouse. The BBC has recently spent the last 10 days of the 2007 season in their hippo hide – the camera man said it was the best hide he'd ever used in all his filming.

The elephant hide is also used for sleep outs. A magical experience – and one we'll never forget! It's a wooden platform high in the trees overlooking the Luangwa River. Lie in bed, under your mosquito net, listening to the whooping hyena, chorus of cicadas and elephants munching. Then wake in the morning to the ground hornbills “banging their drums.”

Unlike most other safari camps, Kaingo usually operates on the basis of three activities per day.

A day at Kaingo usually starts by waking early for tea/coffee and biscuits around the fire, before setting off on an early-morning 4WD or walking safari. You return to a large breakfast, eaten at leisure.

After this, in the mid-morning, there's the opportunity to head out on a 'hide' activity – and spend a few hours watching the wildlife from the comfort of a hide. Then you return to camp for lunch – and perhaps a short rest after that.

In the late-afternoon tea and cakes are served, before an afternoon/evening activity; this is usually a walking safari - or possibly a 4WD safari followed by a night drive.

The team at Kaingo are very flexible about what activity you do when – and if you have a particular hide that you want to visit, or activity that you want to do, then it is important that you make this clear to the managers when you arrive … and chat with them about when this can be arranged.

Note that Kaingo combines naturally with its sister-camp, Mwamba Bushcamp, which is only a morning's walk away.

Lodge overview
Lodge type: Safari
No. of bedrooms: 6 Chalets
Season: 20 May to 31 Oct
Ideal length of stay: We recommend a minimum of 3 nights although 5 – 8 nights would be ideal for a combined stay of Kaingo and the sister camp Mwamba Bushcamp.
Central facilities: Kaingo's main lounge and dining area is known as their chitenge. It's a stone and thatch building with open sides with a cool and airy feel to it. In the front of the chitenge is a small lounge with wooden benches and chairs and a coffee table with some wildlife books and magazines.

Behind the lounge is the atmospheric thatched and leadwood bar where pre-dinner drinks are served and guests discuss their sightings of the day. The dining area is to the side of the lounge and is lit by lanterns at night. Outside the fire place forms the social gathering for early morning tea & coffee. Comfy chairs and benches are very inviting.

Fairly new to Kaingo is their outside deck, which extends over the river. It's perfect for relaxing and lunch and afternoon tea are often served here. There's also a telescope for checking out the birds and game on the opposite bank of the Luangwa.

Geographics
Location: South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
Directions: Fly to Mfuwe and transfer to camp. It's an approximate 2-hour drive from Mfuwe to Kaingo (part through villages, part safari).
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel
Owner: Derek & Jules Shenton

Food & drink
Usual board basis: Full Board
Food quality: We've visited Kaingo a few times and their meals could not be faulted. On our last trip, in September 2007, the meals were very good. That said, Kaingo do have a new chef who is still learning the ropes, so Jules was helping out a bit.

Meal times with Shenton Safaris operate a little differently to most camps in the Luangwa Valley. Kaingo and Mwamba focus a lot of time on their hide trips which are usually taken between breakfast and lunch.

Tea, coffee and biscuits are served around the camp fire before your early morning activity.

After your morning game drive or walk, usually around 09:30, return to camp for a hearty breakfast. Breakfast is a choice of cereals, yoghurt and porridge. They'll also take your order for a full cooked English breakfast of bacon, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes etc.

After breakfast you have the option of going to one of Kaingo's renowned hides; usually between 12:00 – 13:30. Then it's back to camp for a light lunch. Lunch was a more casual affair and was served alfresco on the river deck. We had a delicious chicken caesar salad, pasta salad and freshly baked bread, followed by fruit salad, tea & coffee. (We then slept incredibly well!)

Afternoon tea & biscuits are served at 15:45 on the river deck before heading out on your evening game activity. Stay out for sundowner drinks & snacks then continue on a night drive using a spotlight to find the nocturnal animals.

Pre-dinner drinks are offered at the leadwood bar then dinner is served at around 20:30. On our first night we had French onion soup for starters and bream for main course. Our second night we had fish cakes on a bed of spinach for starters, followed by a full roast; fillet, Yorkshire puddings, cauliflower & cheese and roast potatoes. Desert was chocolate mousse – which was so good, we managed to squeeze it in!
Dining style: Group Meals
Dining locations: Indoor Dining
Room service: No.
Drinks included: All locally-produces drinks, including all soft drinks, beers, most spirits, and the house wines are included. Specialty imported spirits, vintage wines and champagnes will always cost extra.

Special interests
Birdwatching: Kaingo also has quite a number (8 at last count) of stunning photographic hides. The carmine bee eater hide is best in September & October when the birds are nesting in the banks of the Luangwa River. The hide is a boat which is moored off a carmine colony.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Birdwatching
Photographic: Kaingo has a number of hides - frequented by the BBC, National Geographic, Discovery Channel and many independent film makers and photographers. Game vehicles have open sides and a canvas roof which can be removed. They never take more than 2 guests per row of seats, and bean bags and camera covers are provided.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Photographic
Walking: Kaingo has a beautiful area for walking and the camps' guides are some of the most experienced in the valley. Guests who combine a stay at the sister camp Mwamba Bushcamp usually walk from camp to camp.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Walking
Wildlife: Kaingo has a high density of game and bird life in their area. Unlike most other safari camps, Kaingo usually operates on the basis of three activities per day. Activities include day and night drives, walking safaris and hide excursions. Guiding is of a very high standard.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for Wildlife

Children
Attitude towards children: Kaingo are happy to take children – but not babies. So sensible, well-behaved children over the age of 6 or 7 years should be fine – bearing in mind that they will need to be constantly supervised by their parents.
Age restrictions: Prefer children over 6 years of age who are well-behaved.
Activities: None.
Equipment: One extra bed can be put in the parents room for a child to share. This will be a bit of a squash as the rooms are not huge.
Generally recommended for children: No – not for children under 6 or 7 years.
Notes: Parents need to be aware that this is the bush! The camp is on the edge of the Luangwa River and is not fenced in; so animals do roam freely through the camp. (I had a leopard with a bushbuck kill in the tree outside my chalet!)
Children under 12 years are not allowed on walking safaris.

Central communications
Power supply: Solar Power
Communications: There is no direct phone line – although the camp does have satellite communications for emergencies. There is no mobile reception.
TV & radio: There are no radios or TV's here.

Health & safety
Malarial area: Yes
Medical care: The closest doctor is in Mfuwe (1¼ hours fast drive away)

For emergencies clients will be evacuated by Medivac.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: Guests are escorted to their chalets at night, and are not allowed to walk around alone after dark. There are no night watchmen.
Fire safety: There are two fire extinguishers in the main area and one in the kitchen.

Extras
Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: Full laundry service is included, except for underwear, for which washing powder is provided in the bathrooms.
Money: No exchange facilities offered.
Accepted payment: Cash only – US$, Pounds and Euros.



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