Mwamba Bushcamp is the smaller sister camp to Kaingo Camp; also owned and run by Derek and Jules Shenton. A morning's walk, or a short game drive from Kaingo, the remote Mwamba is set beneath the shade of tall ebony trees overlooking a waterhole in the usually dry bed of the seasonal Mwamba River.
Mwamba is a small and intimate bush camp accommodating a maximum of six guests in three simple, yet comfortable, chalets. Everything about the camp is natural.
The thatched chalets have reed walls and mud-packed floors. Above each bed is a mosquito net and a large gauze skylight – designed to give you the feeling of sleeping under the stars. Neutral, earthy colours are used to decorate each chalet: with African print fabrics, wall hangings and grass mats on the floors. There are wooden cupboards and shelves for storage (with dressing gowns for your comfort,) bedside tables, and a little wooden box to lock away your valuables. Each chalet also has a shaded verandah with a wooden table and chairs overlooking the river bed.
One of the chalets has twin beds, whilst the other two have large king-sized beds. One of these is referred to as the 'honeymoon suite' as it has a four poster bed and is the furthest from the main chitenge area.
At the back of each chalet is a large open-air en-suite bathroom which is enclosed by a tall reed wall. These also have a real bush feel. They've been built around enormous ebony trees and have sandy floors with grass mats. Although simple, they have all the necessary comforts like flushing toilets, stunning natural stone basins with hot and cold running water, and hot bucket showers which are filled for the guests after their game drives (or on request). Though these are bucket showers, the hot water is filled up in its own bucket so you can mix this with cold water like a normal shower and there is always plenty of water - you could almost forget that this was a bucket shower!
Like Kaingo, Mwamba Bushcamp also has a number of stunning photographic hides. There are two hides very close to Mwamba; one within the camp and one just outside the perimeter, and both hides are focused on perennial water-holes.
Guests at Mwamba can also make use of the Carmine Bee-eater Hide which is a boat moored off a carmine colony. This is shared with Mwamba's sister Camp Kaingo, and best in September & October. For those really interested in hides, Kaingo also has the Hippo Hide, which is inside the riverbank beside a deep hippo-filled pool; and the Elephant Hide, which is a platform up a tall, riverside tree – where elephants often cross the river and where guests can enjoy a magical sleep if requested in advance. To visit these two hides it is best to combine a stay at Mwamba with Kaingo.
These hides have been used by the BBC, National Geographic, Discovery Channel and many independent film makers and photographers, including Francois D'Elbee, who recently published a photographic coffee table book of Luangwa's people.
Activities at Mwamba Bushcamp include walking safaris, game drives (day and night) and trips to the hides; all of which are led by excellent guides. Like Kaingo – but unusually for most safari camps – Mwamba operates on the basis of three activities per day.
A typical day usually starts by waking to the sound of drumming, followed by tea/coffee and biscuits around the camp fire, before setting off on an early-morning game drive or walking safari. You return to a large breakfast, after which there's the opportunity to head out to one of the hides.
After the 'hide activity' you return to camp for a light lunch and then perhaps a short siesta. Meet again in the late-afternoon for tea and cakes before your afternoon/evening activity. When we were last at Mwamba in June 2010, we saw wild dogs, a honey badger and leopard all in one evening activity!
Some guests may also like to venture further a field on a full day excursion. A half day drive away from Mwamba Bushcamp is a stunning Baobab forest where you will find hundreds of 200-300 year old Baobabs on an open plain, out here there is a good chance of seeing some of the more elusive antelope such as Eland, Roan and Hartebeeste.
If you'd like to end off your day at camp – rather than out on an afternoon or full day activity – then Mwamba has a great spot for sundowners! Just behind the camp lies a large termite mound. Built on top of the termite mound, Derek and his team have created a seating area with a thatched canopy – which is an ideal spot with views over the bush.
From Mwamba, adventurous guests can also experience the exhilarating Mwamba Camp-out which is one of the truest wilderness experiences in South Luangwa. Head out on an afternoons walk with a senior guide and armed scout, deep into the bush where you will camp out for the night. Your bedroll will be set beside the fire under a mosquito net and you sleep under the stars. (Read more about the Mwamba Camp-out here…….)
Like Kaingo, the Mwamba area has very good game and bird life. The mixture of environments here provides a variety of landscapes, and sustains a diversity of animals. There are wide open plains (Lion Plain and Eland Plain), mopane woodlands, waterholes, lagoons, thick riverine bush and the Mwamba River. It's an excellent area for both guided walks and day and night game drives – and you'll be guided by some of the valleys most experienced and knowledgeable guides.
Expect to see plenty of zebras, Cookson's wildebeest (it's probably the best place in South Luangwa for these endemic animals), puku, impala, elephants, giraffe, waterbuck and bushbuck. If you're as lucky as many of our travellers have been, you'll also see leopards on every night drive (plus porcupines, civets and the white tailed mongoose). The local pride of lions, known as the 'Mwamba pride' also frequent the area, and often turn up at one of the waterholes overlooked by hides.
Whilst only a novice bird-watcher, I counted many kingfishers (I saw pied and grey-hooded), fish eagles, lilac-breasted rollers, white-browed coucals, giant eagle owls, lovebirds and weavers amongst my sightings in a short stay.
In conclusion … we've visited Mwamba often, and although it's sometimes described as a basic bushcamp … we beg to disagree. We found the rooms spacious, the beds very comfortable, and the en-suite bathroom excellent. The food was great – and we loved the flexibility of the activities (especially the hides!) and the obvious passion of the guides.
Lodge overview
Lodge type: Safari
No. of bedrooms: 3 thatched chalets
Season: 20 May to 31 Oct
Ideal length of stay: We recommend a minimum of 3 nights at Mwamba Bushcamp, although 5-8 nights would be ideal for a combined stay of Mwamba and the sister camp Kaingo.
Central facilities: Mwamba is a small and simple natural bushcamp.
The chitenge (main area) is set beneath the shade of tall ebony trees. It's very simple and natural, with sandy floors, a low reed wall, solar-power lights, candles and paraffin lanterns.
The wooden bar at the back of the chitenge, is a real feature. It's built around a huge ebony tree which is entwined with python vines – and supports the drinks shelf. It's a great spot for a social drink before meal times!
There's also a little lounge area with some cushioned chairs and a sofa, with plenty of reading material and a few board games to keep you entertained.
Breakfast and dinner are usually served at the large wooden dining room table (which Derek made) in the center of the chitenge. Whereas lunch is more relaxed, and is usually a buffet set up under their thatched gazebo overlooking the Mwamba River.
Directions: Fly to Mfuwe and transfer to camp. It's an approximate 2-hour drive from Mfuwe to Mwamba (partly through villages, partly safari).
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer
Key personnel
Owner: Derek & Jules Shenton
Staff: Camp Manager: guides rotate between the camps
Guide: Derek Shenton, Ian, Meyam and Patrick Njobvu.
Guide: Ian has just passed his exams, but is gaining experience under Derek, Meyam & Patrick.
Chef: There is an experienced team here that produces wonderful food.
Food & drink
Usual board basis: Full Board
Food quality: Shenton Safaris know how to keep both your days and your stomachs full (if you choose to!). On my last trip to Mwamba Bushcamp (June '10) the food was very good. I'm always amazed by the quality of food that the chefs can produce in their bush kitchens.
Meals are announced by drumming. After your morning activity, there's a very relaxed buffet breakfast with cereals, fruit, muffins and yogurt – as well as toast and a full English breakfast (made to order).
A few hours later, the light lunch is often served under the thatched gazebo, over the edge of the river. On previous visits, one such lunch was a freshly baked pizza and green salad, followed by fruit salad – and on another we enjoyed a very tasty pasta dish, with salad and fresh fruit afterwards. Most recently in June 2010 we had a delicious chicken pie with roasted pumpkin and salad.
Afternoon tea is served at around 4pm, before heading out on your evening game activity – with cake / biscuits on offer, as well as drinks. On our most recent visit this consisted of huge homemade brownies with icing.
Dinner is three courses, all served to you at the table plated, and accompanied by your choice of red or white wine. This may be something like ravioli, or soup for starter, stuffed chicken or peppercorn steak and vegetables for main course – followed by a lovely dessert.
Having spent a few nights with Shenton Safaris, I've found their meals to be consistently very good.
Dining style: Group Meals
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included
Drinks included: Drinks are included at Mwamba Bushcamp.
Special interests
Birdwatching: Mwamba Bushcamp takes particularly good care of photographers. The hides here are excellent for getting great shots – and have been used by the BBC's Natural History unit, National Geographic and the Discovery Channel, amongst others. Mwamba's 4WD vehicles never take more than 2 guests per row of seats – and bean bags and camera covers are provided on request.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for birdwatching in Zambia
Photographic: Mwamba Bushcamp takes particularly good care of photographers. The hides here are excellent for getting great shots – and have been used by the BBC's Natural History unit, National Geographic and the Discovery Channel, amongst others. Mwamba's 4WD vehicles never take more than 2 guests per row of seats – and bean bags and camera covers are provided on request.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for photographic in Zambia
Walking safaris: Mwamba Bushcamp has some of the most experienced guides in the Luangwa Valley. Guests who combine a stay at the sister camp Kaingo usually walk from camp to camp – and it's a very rich game area.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for walking safaris in Zambia
Wildlife safaris: One of Mwamba Bushcamp's main draw cards is their game hides. When most camps offer a siesta time, Mwamba will take you to one of their hides where you can spend as much or as little time as you like. Their area has a high density of game and bird life and guiding is of a very high standard.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for wildlife safaris in Zambia
Children
Attitude towards children: Mwamba will accept children; although they strongly prefer children to be over the age of 7. However, this can be flexible if a family is taking the whole camp. All children must be sensible and well behaved. Parents need to supervise their kids, and child minders are not available. Children under 12 are not allowed on walks.
Age restrictions: Children must be over 6 years of age. Any family with children between 6 – 10 years must pay for a private vehicle.
Activities: None.
Equipment: One extra bed can be put in the parent's room for a child to share. This will be a bit of a squash as the rooms are not big.
Generally recommended for children: Expert Africa does not recommend Mwamba Bushcamp for children under 12 – which is the minimum age to take part in the walking activities – unless the camp is being taken exclusively by an Africa-wise family.
Notes: Parents need to be aware that this camp is not fenced and animals do walk through the camp. On previous visits here we have had an elephant in camp and a lion walk past our chalet. Children must never be left unsupervised.
Central communications
Power supply: Solar Power
Communications: There is no direct phone line – although the camp does have a radio and keeps in touch with Kaingo and the other camps in the valley. There is no mobile reception.
TV & radio: There are no radios or TV's here.
Health & safety
Malarial area: Yes
Medical care: The closest doctor is in Mfuwe (1¼ hours fast drive away). For emergencies Mwamba can arrange for Medivac.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: Guests are not allowed to walk around alone after dark – they will be escorted to their chalets at night.
Fire safety: There are fire extinguishers at every chalet and around the camp.
Extras
Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: Laundry is included; however it is hand washed and line dried so guests may prefer to wash delicate items themselves. Washing powder is provided for this.
Money: No exchange facilities offered.
Accepted payment: Cash only – Pounds, Euros and US$ are accepted.
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Click on the links below to read sections from the Bradt guidebook which are related to Mwamba Bushcamp.
Mwamba Put Mwamba Bushcamp into context – read more about it in the Bradt travel guide to Zambia.
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