Baines' Camp: Our full report
Baines' Camp lies in a beautiful, private area of Botswana's Okavango Delta, neighbouring the Moremi Game ...
... Reserve and facing the Boro River – one of the Delta's main arteries. Named after the famed Victorian explorer and artist, Thomas Baines, the camp is notable for its innovative construction and its ever-popular roll-out “star beds”.Baines' Camp shares a 1,050km² private community-run concession (NG32) with the larger and slightly less costly, Stanley's Camp . On the opposite eastern side of the reserve are Qorokwe Camp and Gomoti Plains Camp – although it’s highly unlikely that you’ll come across their safari vehicles as the distance is vast and the camps are separated by rivers and seasonal floodplains.
Baines’ was first built in 2005 and was one of the leaders in Botswana’s luxury fly-in safari market. The camp closed for a couple of months in November 2018 to undergo renovations and refurbishments, and reopened in January 2019. When we visited in March 2019 we thought it was looking lovely.
Bright pops of colour in the rugs, curtains, bed throws and cushions enliven a stylish décor of whites and creams, a refreshing change from the neutral tones at most safari camps. And the view from Baines’ Camp really is beautiful, even by Botswana standards.
It’s an intimate camp with just six suites, all raised on high wooden decks overlooking the surrounding bush and tall reed-beds that flank the Boro River. With “solid” walls made from recycled drinks' cans and plaster containing elephant dung, the construction is certainly unusual, but the finished effect is novel and much smarter than the ingredients might suggest! Thatched roofs help to keep the suites airy and cool in the hot summer months, and warm and cosy in the winter.
At the heart of each bedroom, a large, wooden four-poster bed, draped with a mosquito net, can – on request – be rolled out through double doors onto your private deck so you can sleep beneath the stars. These decks overlook the Boro River and/or floodplain, with a couple of chairs and a table with umbrella so that you can enjoy the outdoors during the day.
Back inside, a couple of comfortable metal-frame chairs woven in bright-coloured rope add a slightly quirky feel, and paint, paper and a paintbrush are supplied, should you be inspired to emulate the artist Thomas Baines. A small desk with international plug points is useful for charging batteries.
Behind the bed is an open wardrobe with ample hanging space and shelving, a luggage rack, and a sideboard with a well-stocked minibar, and a tea and coffee station complete with small kettle, coffee plunger and jar of biscuits. Unusually for an Okavango camp, a hairdryer is also provided. Useful extras include both a ceiling fan and a standing fan, a torch, a radio for emergency contact, mosquito repellent, and a gym bag with two yoga mats and pair of dumbbells.
The en-suite bathrooms were all remodelled at the end of 2018, with his and hers washbasins on a grey marble countertop beneath two mirrors. To one side is a toilet in a separate cubicle, and to the other an ample-sized indoor shower with a view, while double doors lead outside on to a deck. The free-standing, outdoor bath is also new: ideal for a romantic and relaxing candlelit bath under the night sky. A range of Africology toiletries is provided, along with slippers and bathrobes.
Inter-leading walkways link the suites and the main area, which is relatively small but cosy – perfect for a camp of this size. Nestled amongst the papyrus reeds and with uninterrupted views of the Boro River, this too is built on raised wooden decking, around a central (unoccupied!) termite mound. In the lounge, three individual seating areas are decorated in bright colours with hand-woven baskets, colourful ceramics, and a fairly retro hanging chair. Both this and the open-sided dining room, where we watched three sitatunga grazing during breakfast, lead onto a deck, with a small boma area and firepit where pre- and post-dinner drinks are served.
A much-needed addition to Baines’ Camp is the spacious new bar, where guests can now help themselves to drinks in the main area. Built on a separate deck and under its own tall thatched roof, it too has fabulous views over the Boro River – and it comes with a pizza oven too!
A couple of glass cabinets at the entrance serve as a curio shop, where there is an interesting cross-section showing how the camp walls are constructed from thousands of used cans collected by a local community in Maun. A fee was paid for every can: quite innovative and very eco-friendly.
Away from the main area, between rooms 3 and 4, there is a lovely rim-flow pool with a sundeck and loungers, as well as two large, shady salas (day beds). Thoughtfully, the camp has also provided a fridge well-stocked with refreshments. You will often get elephant and hippo wandering through this area of the camp.
Activities from Baines' include both day and night 4WD safari drives, which can go off-road to track game within the private concession. Game drives may also traverse into the southern portion of the Moremi Game Reserve, onto Chief’s Island, but only when water levels are sufficiently low.
Boat excursions and mokoro trips depend on water levels too: in March 2019, after very little summer rain, neither were still running. During a previous visit, when water levels were high enough, we took part in the mokoro activity, spotting plenty of birdlife from the water as well as the tiny but twinkle-sounding painted reed frog – along with the more obvious elephant and hippopotamus.
Walking safaris at Baines’ are available on request; if these interest you, do let us know well in advance so the camp can try to ensure that suitably qualified guides are available during your stay.
Historically, we've not had the best wildlife sightings at Baines'. Game densities in this area tend to be lower than in other parts of the Okavango Delta. given the vast floodplains which are either covered in very tall grass during the rainy, summer season, or with shallow flood water during the dry, winter season. From our experience, game viewing here is at its best during the dry season, from around May until end October, when the grass is low. In March 2019 the grass was tall and it was difficult to spot animals, but we did find a pride of nine lions with cubs, and also saw giraffe, elephant, warthog, reedbuck, red lechwe and tsessebe, while another group saw a leopard and a pack of eight African wild dogs. Despite this, leopard and lion in this area can be difficult to spot.
Birdwatching, on the other hand, is consistently good here. Over the years our varied bird count has included coppery-tailed coucal, black-winged stilt, black-chested snake eagle, African harrier-hawk (gymnogene), Dickinson's kestrel, bateleur, African fish eagle, pelicans, lilac-breasted roller, Burchell's starling, and saddle-billed stork.
Our view
Baines' is smart, comfortable and well-equipped, with varied activities according to the Delta's flood levels. Although there is plenty of general wildlife, game densities are limited compared to the high standards of many other parts of the Okavango, and we wouldn't suggest this area if you are particularly keen on seeing predators. Instead, come for the luxury camp with beautiful scenery, delicious meals, outdoor bath and star bed. Your guide will work hard to find the animals, but let that be an added bonus.
Botswana expert
Geographics
- Location
- Okavango Delta Safari Reserves, Botswana
- Ideal length of stay
- We’d typically recommend two nights here. However, during the peak season (June–October), three nights would give more chance to explore and possibly see more wildlife.
- Directions
- Access is by light aircraft to the camp's airstrip (15 minutes from Maun and 1 hour 15 minutes from Kasane), which is shared with its sister camp, Stanley's. From there it's approximately 45–60 minutes by vehicle to the camp, depending on water levels. When water levels allow, the transfer may be by boat instead.
- Accessible by
- Fly-and-Transfer
Food & drink
- Usual board basis
- Full Board & Activities
- Food quality
- Over the years our meals at Baines' Camp, most recently on a visit in March 2019, have been creative, delicious and varied. Guests normally eat at individual tables, but should you prefer to dine with other guests this can easily be arranged. The boma evening is a group affair, with guests dining together close to the barbecue, under the stars.
Breakfast is offered before heading out on the morning activity. As well as the usual coffee and tea, toast, fresh muffins and cereal, we also had the choice of cold meats, fruit, yoghurt, cheeses, croissants and even a full cooked option breakfast made to order.
Lunch is plated, and usually three courses. We started with a delicious sweet potato soup, followed by a selection of salads and pizzas, with by rooibos crème brulée for dessert.
For afternoon tea, just before the afternoon activity, we enjoyed iced coffee, a slice of coffee cake and a vegetable spring roll. Tea, lemonade, and various fruits were also provided, in addition to other sweet treats.
Dinner at Baines' Camp is a plated three-course meal, usually with a choice of two starters, main dishes and desserts. We opted for crumbed camembert with redcurrant sauce followed by grilled pork with fondant potatoes and roasted vegetables and finished with poached pear in red wine jus – all delicious. - Dining style
- Individual Tables
- Dining locations
- Indoor and Outdoor Dining
- Further dining info, including room service
- Group dining is on request, and for boma night.
- Drinks included
- Bottled water, soft drinks, local beers and spirits and a limited selection of (usually) South African red and white wines are included. Champagne and imported wines and spirits will cost extra and may need to be requested in
advance.
There is borehole water for brushing teeth, but bottled drinking water is imported from Maun.
Special interests
- Honeymoons
- Baines' Camp is a lovely, romantic camp for a Botswana honeymoon. The star beds – double beds that can be rolled out on to your own private deck at night – offer something quite special, and an intimate private dinner table and candle-lit bath under the stars will be happily arranged on request.
- See ideas for Honeymoons
Children
- Attitude towards children
- Children aged 16 and over are welcome.
- Property’s age restrictions
- Children aged 16 years and older can stay at Baines'.
- Special activities & services
- The camp has a few board games like chess and chequers, and a swimming pool which can be enjoyed during the day.
- Equipment
- There are no family rooms, but an extra bed can be added to the rooms to make a, fairly squashed, triple room to share.
- Generally recommended for children
- Game drives, especially when water levels are high, can be hard going. Because of this, and the intimacy of the camp, we'd generally recommend Baines' for adults.
- Notes
- Wildlife wanders through Baines' Camp regularly. The pool is unfenced and there is open water in front of camp with very little to act as a barrier. Even older children must be under the supervision of their parents.
Our travellers’ wildlife sightings from Baines' Camp
Since mid-2018, many of our travellers who stayed at Baines' Camp have kindly recorded their wildlife sightings and shared them with us. The results are below. Click an animal to see more, and here to see more on our methodology.
100% success
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0% success
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Communications
- Power supply notes
- Solar with a back-up generator. Baines’ is gradually switching to running solely on solar power, with the generator to be used just as a back-up. Power is available in camp 24 hours.
Each suite has a multi-point plug adaptor. - Communications
- The camp is in radio contact with the Maun office. WiFi is available in the suites, but there is no cellphone reception.
- TV & radio
- No
- Water supply
- Borehole
- Water supply notes
- There is bottled water for brushing teeth and bathing. All rooms have plumbed-in showers and flush toilets.
Health & safety
- Malarial protection recommended
- Yes
- Medical care
- All the managers are first-aid trained and there are full trauma kits on site. Nurses are in direct contact with management to help stabilise patients if necessary. Medical evacuation is available from the camp, with a helicopter able to land three minutes' walk away. In an emergency, guests can be flown to Maun or Johannesburg.
- Dangerous animals
- High Risk
- Security measures
- There is a radio in each suite, so that guests can contact the managers in an emergency. Guests are escorted between the main area and their rooms after dark.
- Fire safety
- There are fire extinguishers at each of the suites and in the main area. The camp also has a water-trailer which can be utilised in the event of fire.
Activities
4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Boat trip
Elephant encounter
Fishing
Guided walking safari
Helicopter
Mokoro
Night drive
Sleeping under the stars
Extras
- Disabled access
- Not Possible
- Laundry facilities
- Included (including smalls). Clothes are both line and tumble-dried.
- Money
- The camp does not offer currency exchange facilities. There is a small safe in each of the suites that is large enough to store a wallet and/or travel documents.
- Accepted payment on location
- Mastercard and Visa credit cards are accepted; Diners and Amex are not. Cash payments may be made in the form of GB pounds, US dollars, South African rand, euros and Botswana pula, with change given in pula.
Room types at Baines' Camp
Safari Chalet
There are three twin rooms and two doubles Baines' Camp. All are connected by raised wooden walkways and constructed in a similar fashion – using an innovative mix of thatched roofs supported by walls made of solid aluminium cans, wire mesh and elephant dung. These are much nicer than they sound.
Inside they are stylishly decorated in white-washed colours, and comprise a main bedroom area with large french doors opening to your own private raised wooden deck. There is an in-built sofa in the corner of the room towards the deck, and the walls are decorated with pieces of individual artwork. The four-poster beds are on wheels so that if you wish, they may be pushed out onto your deck at night for a sleep under the stars… They are surrounded by mosquito netting so there is no need to worry about insects!
Behind the beds are large wardrobe cupboards, and a mini-fridge which can be stocked with your chosen beverages. Each suite is also equipped with a hairdryer, a ceiling fan and a standing fan, as well as a torch, intercom system and mosquito repellent. An easel and paints are provided so that guests can paint if they wish to.
The en-suite bathrooms are connected to the main bedroom areas by an enclosed walkway/corridor. They have flushing toilets, shower cubicles and double sinks with mirrors over, along with a full-length mirror. Hot and cold water is on tap, and Africology toiletries including shampoo, conditioner and shower gel are provided.
We really like the rooms at Baines' Camp; they are unusual for camp rooms in Botswana. They felt airy and cool, and have lovely views of the bush around.
Other lodges in Okavango Delta Safari Reserves
Alternative places to stay in this same area.
Kwara Camp
Kwara Camp's private reserve boasts land and water activities year round, with excellent game-viewing opportunities and access to permanent channels of the north-east Okavango Delta.
Little Vumbura
On a secluded island within a private reserve, Little Vumbura combines superb game viewing with a broad diversity of habitats in a truly picturesque setting.
Shinde Camp
With experienced staff and a wealth of activities, Shinde offers a traditional safari in an exceptionally varied and wildlife-rich environment.
Chitabe Lediba
Chitabe Lediba, in Botswana's southern Okavango Delta, is a small family friendly safari camp; it offers great dry-land safaris and in our experience consistently delivers good game sightings.
Splash Camp
Set in the Kwara Reserve, offering superb wildlife viewing year-round, Splash offers both land and water activities led by guides with a particular knack for tracking big game.
Sandibe Safari Lodge
The luxurious Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge lies in a private concession in the heart of the Okavango Delta, beside Moremi Game Reserve, with superb big-game viewing.
Kanana
In a beautiful part of the Delta, Kanana focuses on fantastic water activities and birding – including exclusive access to an impressive heronry.
Chitabe Camp
In the southern Okavango Delta, the excellent Chitabe Camp concentrates on dry-land safaris in an area that we've found particularly good for wild dog sightings.
Shinde Footsteps
Small and very rustic, Footsteps across the Delta focuses on walking safaris; it also runs a special children’s programme so is particularly suitable for families.
Gomoti Plains Camp
Overlooking a tributary of the Gomoti River, Gomoti Plains Camp is a classically designed camp with very comfortable tents in a good game-viewing area.
Tubu Tree Camp
A traditional tented camp with a distinctive tree-house feel, Tubu Tree offers some of the best game viewing in the Jao Reserve.
Nxabega Tented Camp
Nxabega offers a selection of both land- and water-based activities, plus very good guiding, food and service, but game viewing can be somewhat erratic.
Vumbura Plains
Indulgently stylish and luxurious, Vumbura Plains offers superb game viewing and birding on an exceptionally varied private reserve.
Jacana Camp
Jacana Camp is a small safari camp with an informal island feel; it is ideal for water-based activities in the Delta and offers excellent birdwatching.
Kwetsani Camp
Deep in the Delta, overlooking a floodplain, Kwetsani Camp is a small, high-end camp with good access to areas for land and water-based activities.
Mapula Lodge
For an affordable yet varied safari encompassing a range of eco-systems, the traditional Mapula Lodge takes a lot of beating.
Duba Plains Camp
Duba Plains Camp is a traditional safari camp, best known for the thrilling lion and buffalo interaction that is often found here in broad daylight.
Stanley's Camp
In a private concession south of Moremi Game Reserve, Stanley's Camp offers 4WD game drives, seasonal water activities and a superb elephant interaction.
Duba Explorers Camp
Intimate and elegant, Duba Explorers Camp promises a firm safari focus in a remote corner of the Okavango, led by a team who value the highest guiding and hosting standards.
Little Tubu
Little Tubu is a new, traditional camp with just three tented chalets and a distinctive tree-house feel. The areas around it can be explored by water and land-based activities year round.
Pom Pom Camp
Pom Pom Camp lies amidst stunning Okavango Delta scenery. Come for idyllic mokoro trips and great birdwatching, and accept that big-game sightings here are a bonus.
Pelo Camp
In a pristine wilderness environment deep in the Okavango Delta, the seasonal Pelo Camp is tented yet comfortable, with activities focusing on excursions by mokoro.
Mma Dinare
Beautifully located in a private concession overlooking the Gomoti River, the traditional Mma Dinare is very well-priced for the Okavango Delta.
Xaranna
Xaranna is a plush tented camp amongst the idyllic waterways and islands of the Delta. Each air-conditioned tent has a plunge pool. Water activities and pampering are the focus here.
Seba Camp
Seba Camp is a luxury camp in a lovely location that offers the full range of water and land safari activities, depending on the time of year. This camp is particularly suitable for families.
Jao Camp
In a beautiful area with fantastic water activities, Jao combines an idyllic location with high levels of luxury and service, and a top-end spa.
Abu Camp
Abu Camp is an exclusive safari camp on the western side of the Botswana's Okavango Delta - offering superb elephant-back safaris and opportunities to walk with them too.
Rra Dinare
Located in a private concession in the southern reaches of the Okavango Delta, overlooking the Gomoti River, Rra Dinare is a traditional-style, well-priced camp.
Setari Camp
Setari Camp stands on an island dotted with palm trees, close to the base of the Okavango’s ‘Panhandle"
4 Rivers
4 Rivers is a new camp in a previously in accessible area of the excellent Kwara concession.
Duke’s Camp
On a remote island within a vast private concession, the eclectic Duke’s Camp is nestled among mature trees overlooking wildlife-rich plains of the Okavango.
Kiri Camp
Kiri Camp is the latest Okavango offering from the excellent team behind Machaba. In an exciting new location in the heart of the Delta we cannot wait to visit this new camp.
Okavango Walking Safari
The Okavango Delta Walking Safari camps in a secluded Okavango Delta Reserve where there are few roads; the ideal location for a walking trail led by an expert guide.
Karangoma
New for 2024, Karangoma is a classic, tented camp offering walking, canoeing and game drives, in partnership with the local Bukakwe San clan.
Atzaro Okavango
With a high level of tasteful luxury promised at Atzaro, we think it will be best suited to travellers seeking a touch of pampering alongside their safari.
Mokolwane
Deep in the heart of the Okavango, Mokolwane promises adventure in a largely untouched area.
Eagle Island Lodge
Eagle Island Lodge is a luxurious camp with international-style facilities including air conditioning and intercom in each room; offering water based activities in the Okavango Delta.
North Island
Deep in quintessentially 'Okavango' territory, between deep-water and dry-land habitats, promises to be a great combination from a team who know all about the best in the Okavango.
Sitatunga Island Camp
Sitatunga Private Island: in this pristine corner of the Okavango Delta, even the name is evocative.
Qorokwe Camp
Luxurious and contemporary, the relatively new Qorokwe Camp is a gem in the Okavango Delta, offering land- and occasionally water-based activities in a prime wildlife area.
