Mapula Lodge: Our full report

Mapula Lodge is situated in the private, game-rich Mapula Reserve within the northern Okavango Delta. The lodge occupies a stunning position on a large tree island at the edge of seasonal floodplains, overlooking a permanent lagoon complete with resident hippos.

Mapula Reserve is a private concession slightly north of the renowned Vumbura concession in the Okavango Delta, in an environment that’s very similar to that found at Vumbura. We have always liked sending travellers to Mapula, in part because the game in the region is varied and there can be excellent sightings of big cats and large herbivores. On our last visit to the camp, in October 2012, we met a very excited group of travellers who had seen leopard, cheetah, lion and buffalo all on one game drive the evening before we arrived.

Unusually for Botswana, Mapula is independently owned, something that we at Expert Africa have long supported. Following a change of ownership in 2011, however, we were disappointed with the general state of the lodge as well as with subsequent reports, but we’re happy to report that by October 2012, we were generally encouraged by the progress a new management team is making, although there is still room for improvement.

Mapula has nine roomy stone-and-thatch chalets which are reached along sandy pathways, and are well spaced and very private. They have been built on raised platforms amongst some lovely old trees, in harmony with their surroundings. The floors are constructed from old wooden beams, which extend to each chalet's private balcony, well shaded by ancient trees. The rooms have very large, almost floor-to-ceiling meshed windows, which allow for a through breeze and great views over the lagoon and its attendant birdlife. (The rooms do have fans but these work only when the generator is on, from about 7.00am to 10.30am in the morning and between 6.00pm and 8.30pm in the evening.)

Up a few steps, and through a solid wooden front door, you’ll find comfortable twin or double beds, their rustic headboards crafted from gnarled old logs, and with good reading lights on twin bedside cabinets. In the evenings, box-shaped mosquito nets are lowered around the beds and lights to protect you from creepy-crawlies. Each chalet also has a living area, with a small wicker sofa scattered with cushions, a footstool, and a coffee table created from an old log. On our most recent visit we were disappointed to find a few holes in our mosquito net. This was quite typical of the general standard of accommodation at Mapula, which at present falls short of the standard of other lodges in the Okavango Delta.

The main area of Mapula Lodge is a lovely traditional thatched building, open plan with a comfortable lounge and dining area, small library, and curio shop, and a large deck where you can sit in the shade of an ancient African ebony. On a lower deck is a small pool with sunloungers and shady spots, ideal for an afternoon nap. Nearby, the bush bar is a gathering point for pre-dinner drinks and recounting the day’s safari tales.

Activities at Mapula focus on day and night game drives, mokoro (dug-out canoe) trips, boat trips and guided walks. The young guide on our last visit, although good and clearly very knowledgeable, would have benefited from an older mentor rather than being left to learn ‘on the job’ as it were. The open-sided game vehicles had certainly been upgraded since our previous visit and were in good shape. Each seats a maximum of nine people and in the hotter summer months (September to April) is usually fitted with a canvas roof to block out some of the sun’s heat.

Although the Okavango’s main buffalo fence runs through part of the Mapula Reserve, the game seems to largely ignore it and easily pass from one side to the other through the many gaps along this stretch. Game drives operate on both sides of the fence, although the range which these can cover varies depending on flood levels. On our most recent visit, the wildlife on both sides of the buffalo fence was very varied: we saw red lechwe, impala, kudu, zebra, wildebeest, steenbok, waterbuck, reedbuck, porcupine, hyena, jackal, genet, caracal and lion! Buffalo and elephant are also permanent residents in this reserve. The birding was also excellent.

Our View

Having supported Mapula a great deal in the past, we have been disappointed to see standards slip in recent years, so it is good to report that things are improving. The staff are generally doing a great job, but we hope that funds will soon become available to replace or upgrade the soft furnishings and other cosmetic elements of the camp to restore it to its former level. For now we would recommend Mapula to anyone looking for a good-value safari in Botswana in a great game area but who is willing to overlook a few blemishes here and there.

Full review | Geographics | Key personnel | Food & drink | Special interests | Children | Communications | Health & safety | Extras |

Geographics

Location: Okavango Delta Safari Reserves, Botswana

Ideal length of stay: 3 nights

Directions: Mapula lodge is a 40-minute light aircraft flight from Maun, followed by game drive to the lodge lasting approximately 30-minutes depending on what wildlife you see on the way.

Key personnel

Staff: Managers are Dr and Tsoghang Guides are Josiah, Mat and Dix Trackers are Jo, Simon, Patrick and Mike

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: Early morning breakfast before your first activity of the day is a basic buffet affair. You help yourself to a selection of cereals and muesli, along with yoghurt and fruit salad. Toast with jam and other spreads is also offered, along with coffee and tea.

On your return, an early lunch is served – when we recently visited we enjoyed a hearty meal of meatballs with couscous and kidney bean salad, followed by cheese and biscuits and fruit. Before your afternoon game drive tea is served, usually a savoury snack and a freshly baked cake, along with rooibos iced tea, or hot tea and coffee.

Dinner is a full three-course affair, and as with all meals here, everyone eats together. When we visited recently, we were served a starter of butternut soup with a fresh bread roll, then roast chicken, potatoes and vegetables for our main course, and pecan nut pie with lemon cream for pudding.

In past visits we have found the food here variable - all dishes were perfectly edible but the average standard was a step down from the quality of meal we have experienced in most other lodges in Botswana. Whilst meals here are certainly still not gourmet, in a later visit we found the standard to be much improved and enjoyed tasty, wholesome fare.

Dining style: Group Meals

Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining

Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included

Drinks included: Soft drinks, bottled water, spirits, local beers and a selection of (generally) South African wines are included. Imported wines and spirits and champagne cost extra – and need to be requested in advance.

Special interests

Birdwatching: The birding in Mapula Reserve is great and you can happily sit on your balcony at Mapula Lodge and spot a wide range of birdlife. To name a few, on our last visit we saw African paradise flycatcher, wattled crane, saddle-billed stork, brown snake eagle, wattled starling, Meyer's parrot, lesser grey shrike, ostrich and carmine bee-eater.

See more ideas for Birdwatching in Botswana

Wildlife safaris: There is plenty of plains game in Mapula Reserve including zebra, kudu, impala, steenbok, waterbuck, buffalo, lechwe, reedbuck and giraffe. Also present are elephant, jackal, baboon, monkey, lion and leopard. On our recent visit to Mapula Lodge we found a pack of wild dogs with their pups – unusually the beta female had also recently given birth to a second litter. On our night drives we saw porcupine, caracal, bush baby spring hare and genet.

See more ideas for Wildlife safaris in Botswana

Children

Attitude towards children: The camp welcomes children aged 8 years and above. Younger children may be accommodated on special request.

Equipment: No special equipment is available.

Generally recommended for children: Yes, for children of over 12 years of age.

Notes: Mapula Lodge is very open with dangerous wildlife walking through the camp, so children will need constant and close supervision by adults.

Central communications

Power supply: Generator

Communications: For most purposes, consider yourself out of contact here. There is no mobile reception and no email. Satellite phone contact can be made with Maun in an emergency.

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Medical care: The camp managers and guides are first-aid trained and a comprehensive first-aid kit is kept at camp. The nearest doctor is in Maun, a 40-minute flight away.

Dangerous animals: High Risk

Security measures: Because of the Okavango's large population of dangerous game, and the fact that Mapula Lodge is unfenced, guests are escorted to their rooms after dark.

Fire safety: You will find fire extinguishers on the balconies of all the rooms.

Extras

Disabled access: Not Possible

Laundry facilities: A full laundry service is included (including underwear, as washing is done by machines).

Money: No exchange facilities are offered. There are key-operated safe deposit boxes in the rooms.