Mchenja Bushcamp: Our full report
Mchenja Bushcamp is a beautiful and luxurious camp in a lovely setting within an ebony grove, beside a bend ...
... of Zambia’s Luangwa River. The whole camp has wide views of the river, and is cool and shaded under the grove of tall ebony and sausage trees around it.Mchenja means 'ebony' and the camp takes its name from the grove of tall ebony trees that tower above and behind it.
It is a relatively small but smart bushcamp, with just five tented chalets dotted along the river. The chalets are large and spacious, designed to be light and airy with a high circus-tent style domed ceiling and wide floor to ceiling canvas windows that let the breeze through - and lovely cream curtains that can be drawn for privacy.
The solid wood beds give the tents a luxurious feel, large and comfortable with crisp white linen covered with cream coloured blankets and cushions. Solar-powered lamps stand on each bedside table, along with a torch and flask of drinking water and glasses. Furnishings include an elegant wrought iron clothes stand, full-length mirror, a comfortable day bed and at the foot of the bed is a stunning antique Africa chief's bed.
Each tent at Mchenja has polished, cement floors, with makuti mats throughout, from the bedroom through to the a large en-suite, open-air bathroom with a (hot & cold) shower, a flush toilet and hand-basin in the corner, fully surrounded by reed walls and shaded by ebony trees. Meanwhile, within the main tent is a free-standing bath with views over the river. Fluffy towels and flannels are provided as well as bottles of soap, shampoo and moisturiser.
These polished floors extend out to a small patio-like area in front of the chalet, with canvas deck chairs for you to relax and enjoy the views of the Luangwa River.
One of the five chalets is designated the family chalet, it follows the same design as the other chalets but with a second en-suite bedroom to one side that can accommodate three single beds – great for families or small groups.
The open-planmain area, known locally as a 'chitenje', sits under a thatch roof, supported by a tree that gives the illusion of falling into the dining area – but all quite sturdy! In the corner is a cozy sitting area with a sofa and a few armchairs within easy reach of the small library of books. Wooden tables and directors chairs make up the dining area, although more often than not you may find yourself dining on the excellent food under the shade of one of the ebony trees or under the stars in the evening.
There is a well-stocked 'help yourself' bar with a highly polished wooden top and wrought iron bar stools that add a dash of style. The polished floor extends out from under the thatch, with a couple of comfortable wicker armchairs that we found could be easily moved into the sun or into the shade. Out closer to the river, under the shade of the trees, is another set of sofas and small tables. While we weren't able to stay overnight on our last visit, we stopped in and enjoyed afternoon tea here on our last visit in October 2019, with a herd of elephants splashing in the river while we ate.
Towards the far end of the camp is a large swimming pool. Surrounded by reed screens for privacy, with sun loungers, large umbrellas and baskets of towels, it’s very inviting, especially in the hotter months!
Mchenja is in a very good game area and offers both walking safaris and 4WD safaris (with more-or-less equal emphasis on both). The guides are very knowledgeable, and, as with most of the South Luangwa, sightings of lion and leopard are fairly common (we stayed just a night, but had good sightings of both in that time), and birding highlights of our stay here included juvenile saddle-billed and yellow-billed storks and some fish eagles.
Generally the game drives either head north, or you head south into the north side of the park's main network of roads around Mfuwe Lagoon. The walks usually meander in and out of the ebony grove, which runs roughly parallel to the course of the main Luangwa River. It’s also possible to walk deeper west into the park to Mchenja’s sister camps Nsolo and Luwi, which focus more heavily on walking safaris.
Our view
Mchenja Bushcamp is small, and rather more luxurious than most of the Luangwa's other bushcamps, so makes a fantastic and relaxing end-point for a safari in South Luangwa. We really liked the atmosphere here – it is smart but relaxed and unpretentious, which is a difficult balance to get right.
Country manager: Zambia
Geographics
- Location
- South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
- Ideal length of stay
- Ideally about 3 nights. Mchenja Bushcamp combines well with its sister-bushcamps, Nsolo Bushcamp, Kakuli Bushcamp and Luwi Bushcamp - and, of course, trips will often start and/or end (or both) at the luxurious Chinzombo.
- Directions
- Mfuwe Airport is reached by a 70-minute scheduled flight from Lusaka. From here, a road transfer/game drive lasting approximately three hours takes visitors to Mchenja.
- Accessible by
- Fly-and-Transfer
Food & drink
- Usual board basis
- Full Board & Activities
- Food quality
- While we were only able to stay for afternoon tea on our last visit in September 2019, on previous visits the food was very good. With advance notice, the camp is able to cater for a range of dietary requests – though do make sure you reiterate your requests on arrival into camp.
A light breakfast is served at sunrise on the grassy rivers edge, before your early morning activity. There is a good selection of cereals, fruit and yoghurt, homemade flapjacks and biscuits as well as toast cooked on the open campfire along with tea, coffee and fruit juice. Porridge is served in the colder months.
Brunch is a buffet and is served in the main area at about 11:30 - there is usually a hot and cold choice. On one of many trips, we had a quiche and lasagna along with a selection of salads followed by a choice of fruit salad or coconut ice cream.
After a midday siesta, everyone gathers for afternoon tea and delicious homemade cake, often sat out by the river, before heading out for their afternoon/evening activity. On our last trip we had delicious scones, jam and cream. A chocolate and hazelnut crunch cake was also on offer.
Sundowners are served whilst out on your game drive and a wide choice of drinks is normally available along with some nibbles.
Dinner is served at about 20:00 on your return from your evening game drive. On a previous visit, we enjoyed feta, olive and tomato filo parcels for starter, followed by balsamic chicken, couscous and green beans, then delicious individual fruit pavlovas for dessert. - Dining style
- Group Meals
- Dining locations
- Indoor and Outdoor Dining
- Further dining info, including room service
- No
- Drinks included
- All filtered drinking water, soft and alcoholic drinks are included at Mchenja.
Special interests
- Honeymoons
- Mchenja’s tented chalets have a soft, romantic feel, and special touches such as private dinners under the stars can be arranged, a lovely romantic touch for your honeymoon to Zambia.
- See ideas for Honeymoons
- Birdwatching
- Mchenja Bushcamp stands beside the Luangwa River, and near several large lagoons – so has several different environments within easy reach. The birding here is good; with water birds and many dry-country species. On one of our short visits we saw flocks and solitary yellow-billed storks, fish eagles, white-fronted bee-eaters, kingfishers and many others.
- See ideas for Birdwatching
- Walking safaris
- Mchenja Bushcamp is in a good game-viewing area and always offers good walking safaris. Mchenja is particularly easy to combine into a camp-to-camp walking trip, it’s only a morning's walk from its sister-camps, Kakuli Bushcamp and Luwi Bushcamp.
- See ideas for Walking safaris
- Wildlife safaris
- Zambia’s South Luangwa is one of Africa's top safari destinations, with high densities of wildlife; Sightings of lion and leopard are particularly common on night drives. On one of our drives from Mchenja Bushcamp during the dry season, we saw many antelope – including impala and puku – a slender mongoose, a genet and a bushbaby, before an exciting hour or more following a pride of three lion out hunting.
- See ideas for Wildlife safaris
Children
- Attitude towards children
- Children over the age of 12 are welcome at Mchenja.
Younger children of 9 and above are accepted on a case-by case basis, and often only if the camp is booked exclusively for the family group. However, park rules mean that children under 12 years are not allowed out on guided walks, but they can join game drives. - Property’s age restrictions
- No children under 12.
- Equipment
- None for smaller children, though the camps family chalet works well for families with older children.
- Generally recommended for children
- Given the environment and the slightly more adult atmosphere of the camp, we’d recommend for children over the age of 14.
- Notes
- The camp is unfenced, and big game wanders through it regularly. It's also beside the steep, unfenced and occasionally unstable bank of the Luangwa River – with crocs and hippos below. Children must be closely supervised at all times.
Our travellers’ wildlife sightings from Mchenja Bushcamp
Since mid-2018, many of our travellers who stayed at Mchenja Bushcamp have kindly recorded their wildlife sightings and shared them with us. The results are below. Click an animal to see more, and here to see more on our methodology.
100% success
100% success
100% success
100% success
100% success
92% success
92% success
92% success
54% success
33% success
15% success
8% success
0% success
0% success
0% success
Communications
- Power supply notes
- Mchenja has a back-up generator, and batteries can be charged in the main area.
- Communications
- Mchenja Bushcamp has 24-hour radio communications with its sister camps in South Luangwa National Park and with its base at Kapani Lodge.
- TV & radio
- Mchenja has no televisions or radio.
- Water supply
- Borehole
- Water supply notes
- The bathrooms have plumbed hot and cold showers, and flush toilets.
Health & safety
- Malarial protection recommended
- Yes
- Medical care
- Staff have first-aid training, and the nearest doctor is based in the Mfuwe area (about 1 hour fast drive). In a serious emergency guests would need to be airlifted to Lusaka or Johannesburg.
- Dangerous animals
- High Risk
- Security measures
- The camp is located within the National Park and is unfenced. You are requested not to walk alone after dark and will be escorted to and from your tent by a guide. An emergency horn, and whistle, can be found in each chalet.
- Fire safety
- There is a fire extinguisher in each chalet and in the main area.
Activities
4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Cultural excursion
Fly-camping
Guided walking safari
Night drive
Extras
- Disabled access
- On Request
- Laundry facilities
- Laundry is included – but it is hand washed and line dried and so you may wish to wash delicate items yourself. For cultural reasons ladies will need to wash their underwear themselves and soap is provided in the rooms for this.
- Money
- Each room has a lock-box. There are no currency exchange facilities at Mchenja.
- Accepted payment on location
- A stay at Mchenja is fully inclusive, but if you would like to tip the staff, we recommend that you use US dollars or Zambian kwacha if possible. In the unlikely event that payment for anything else is required, this can be arranged through the team at the camp.
Other lodges in South Luangwa National Park
Alternative places to stay in this same area.
Tafika
One of the best camps in Zambia, Tafika is naturally built, combining excellent service and food with top guiding skills for a superb wildlife experience.
Nkwali
On the banks of the Luangwa River, with its own access to the national park, the intimate Nkwali is open year round.
Kaingo Camp
Small and owner-run, the riverside Kaingo occupies a a quiet but excellent game area, with a series of wildlife hides and a focus on photography.
Nsefu
One of the Luangwa's oldest camps, Nsefu is a great safari camp in a remote, beautiful and game-rich location with top-rate guiding.
Tena Tena
One of the Luangwa's best camps, in a beautiful, remote bush location, Tena Tena is very small, exceedingly well-run and has top-rate guiding.
Mwamba Bushcamp
Small, remote and owner-run, Mwamba offers first-class walking, 4WD safari drives and superb hides, with excellent guides and a real bush feel.
Chikoko Tree Camp
Chikoko Tree Camp is an excellent small, rustic bushcamp that concentrates on walking safaris, and is run by a top-quality operation.
Big Lagoon Camp
Big Lagoon Camp is a great little rustic bushcamp built to high standards that focuses on excellent walking safaris, with the emphasis on top wildlife guides.
Kapani Lodge
Kapani Lodge is now the main office base for Norman Carr Safaris, one of the Luangwa's oldest safari operations.
Flatdogs Camp
A relatively big safari camp, Flatdogs offers value for money with great guiding and good food in a comfortable, relaxed setting.
Luangwa River Camp
Luangwa River Lodge is a small and consciously stylish lodge in the Mfuwe area, overlooking the Luangwa River and the South Luangwa National Park beyond – an area renowned for great game.
Kakuli Bushcamp
Beside the Luangwa River, Kakuli is a comfortable tented bushcamp offering 4WD safaris and walking safaris – the best of which are camp-to-camp walks linking Kakuli with its nearby sister camps.
Nsolo Bushcamp
Nsolo is a small, comfortable bushcamp overlooking one or two pools in the usually dry Luwi riverbed. It concentrates on walking safaris in an interesting and diverse area, led by a knowledgeable guide.
Kafunta River Lodge
Kafunta is a laid-back, friendly and good-value lodge on the outskirts of South Luangwa National Park.
Luwi Bushcamp
In a remote part of the South Luangwa National Park, Luwi is a rustic bushcamp whose emphasis is on walking safaris with great guiding and a chance of seeing some rarely seen and elusive antelope.
Lion Camp
Lion Camp is an established and comfortable camp with a swimming pool, located near to the game-rich Lion Plain in the northern part of South Luangwa National Park.
Robin Pope mobile
RPS mobile safari camps are at the heart of their set-itinerary walking safaris in South Luangwa National Park, which start and finish at a permanent camp.
Puku Ridge
Puku Ridge is a luxurious designer camp set in a stunning location, high on a hill overlooking a floodplain within South Luangwa. Explore from here on 4WD safaris and walks.
Kapamba Bushcamp
In the remote far south of South Luangwa National Park, Kapamba is a small and very comfortable bushcamp offering good walks and game drives.
Mfuwe Lodge
In a game-rich area close to the South Luangwa’s main Mfuwe Gate, Mfuwe Lodge is relatively large by park standards, but it’s stylish, modern and family friendly.
Kuyenda Bushcamp
Kuyenda Bushcamp is a classic bushcamp with particularly delightful hosts and offers top-class walking safaris in South Luangwa National Park.
Luangwa Safari House
Luangwa Safari House is a vast and very smart four-bedroom house specifically designed for families and small groups, and offering an exclusive and flexible safari experience.
Three Rivers Camp
In the remote far south of South Luangwa National Park, Three Rivers Lodge sits at the confluence of three of the valleys rivers.
Island Bush Camp
Island Bushcamp is a good-value, rustic, walking-only camp, in arguably one of the most remote parts of the South Luangwa, well away from all other camps.
Chinzombo
Opened in early June 2013, Chinzombo offers luxurious and stylish accommodation with very high levels of service and excellent guiding.
Bilimungwe Bushcamp
A smart bushcamp with four very spacious chalets, Bilimungwe offers interesting walking safaris in pretty riverine woodland, as well as day and night safari drives.
Chindeni
Chindeni Bushcamp is a very modern and minimalist camp, which is a far cry from your traditional bushcamp and unlike most of the other camps in South Luangwa.
Robin's House
With your own expert guide, private vehicle, chef and valet, the two-bedroom Robin's House offers an exclusive, flexible safari experience – and is open year round.
Kawaza Village
Kawaza Village – beside the South Luangwa National Park, offers guests the rare opportunity to appreciate local village life. Visit for a few hours or stay overnight.
Chamilandu Bushcamp
A comfortable little bushcamp, Chamilandu has a picturesque setting by the Luangwa River, in an area with a range of habitats to explore on foot and by 4WD.
Mwamba Camp-out
The Mwamba-Camp Out allows you to have an incredibly adventurous night in the bush, sleeping under mosquito nets with activities led by some of the best guides in Zambia.
Zungulila
Zungulila is a small, comfortable tented bushcamp with an emphasis on walking safaris, in the remote southern section of the South Luangwa.
Shawa Luangwa
Opened in June 2021, Shawa Luangwa Camp is a small, intimate and rustic camp, with a good location in a remote section of the South Luangwa National Park.
Chichele Lodge
Currently undergoing renovations, Chichele Presidential Lodge stands high within the park, with superb views, and is due to reopen in late 2022.
Luwi Riverbed Sleepout
For an adventurous night in South Luangwa National Park, come and sleep out in the bush, around a campfire, with an experienced guide and game scout.
Mapazi Camp
Mapazi Camp is a basic safari camp in the far north of the South Luangwa, with walking safaris led by renowned guide Deb Tittle.
Chikunto
Chikunto Safari Lodge is a more traditional property in the South Luangwa National Park, sitting on a peninsula of land created by the meandering Luangwa River.
