Ndutu Safari Lodge: Our full report
Ndutu Safari Lodge, which overlooks Tanzania's Ndutu Soda Lake, was constructed in the 1960s by a former ...
... hunter, and renovated in 1985. Technically, the lodge lies on the northern border of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area but essentially offers a Serengeti experience. The wildebeest migration passes through here, usually between December and April, when the rains have made the plains lush and green.Originally a tented camp, the lodge was established by George Dove, a professional hunter with a rather flamboyant moustache who gave up hunting and chose Ndutu as his regular campsite. Thus Ndutu has always been used exclusively for photographic safaris, and today, it offers comfortable, unfussy accommodation in solidly built cottages.
The bar and restaurant area at Ndutu Safari Lodge has views over the Serengeti. A large, plain stone room, it has solid, functional, wooden furniture and is decorated with animal horns, which lend the atmosphere of an old hunting lodge. The bar's thatched ceiling was previously supported by wooden beams, providing a climbing frame for resident genets. During refurbishment a few years ago the beams were removed – except for one, which was left specifically so that the genets would remain.
Outside, a ground-level birdbath just 20m in front of the restaurant attracts a stream of small birds, particularly flocks of Fischer's lovebirds, adding colour and noise to the scene. There's also a firepit outside, and a small shop sells a range of curios, many of which are made by local women and people with disabilities as a source of income.
There are 34 stone-and-thatch cottages at Ndutu Safari Lodge. All are fairly close together in a long line that extends either side of the bar and restaurant area. All the cottages have a view of Lake Ndutu and each has its own small veranda, where you can sit and watch the wildlife.
Of the 34 cottages, 26 have twin or double beds, and five are triples and one accommodates two adults and two children, so would be suitable for a family. There are also two 'honeymoon cottages' (numbers 12 and 34), which are both fairly distant from the centre. These are slightly more spacious than the twin-bedded cottages, and are dominated by beautiful, king-size beds made from the wood of a Zanzibari dhow.
The cottages are very cool inside, thanks to their stone construction and polished concrete floors, with no need for fans or air conditioning. Clean white walls are offset by the odd photo of African wildlife. Furnishings are simple, yet comfortable: cream director's chairs, sturdy wooden tables, fun wrought-iron wall lights, shaped like guinea fowl, and cream bedspreads. Batik African cushions and Maasai throws add a touch of colour. Mosquito nets hang from hooks over the beds, and there are extra blankets for cool nights, while an umbrella is provided in case of rain.
Every cottage has electric lights, which operate only when the generator is on (usually 6.00pm–11.30pm). For other times, the cottages are equipped with torches and candles. The majority of the cottages have one plug socket for charging; there are more available in the main area.
Each cottage has a small en-suite bathroom, with a white-tiled shower, flushing toilet and single basin. Although fairly Spartan, these are perfectly adequate; just don't expect the toiletries to extend beyond small bars of soap. Filtered water for brushing teeth and drinking is provided.
In 2017 Ndutu created a family cottage with two separate bedrooms, a double and a twin, with a shared lounge and shared bathroom. We particularly liked the cottage, and it has been tastefully decorated with pale lilacs, creams and soft grays. For a family or two couples traveling together this could be a lovely choice.
Ndutu tries quite hard to maintain an eco-friendly stance. Leaflets in each room detail the ways the lodge saves water and encourage guests to help. The lodge has a generator but power consumption is kept to a minimum. Solar heaters provide hot water for the showers. The meat comes from Arusha, while half of the fresh vegetables come from an organic farm near Kilimanjaro and the other half from the nearby town of Karatu, thereby supporting the local community.
Activities at Ndutu Safari Lodge focus on game drives with your private driver in the vehicle that brought you here. Ndutu is a fascinating area to visit at any time of year, particularly for those interested in photography, as you can get very close to the wildlife. The game is at its most prolific during the wildebeest migration, typically between December and April. As the rain moves on, the plains game follows, although lion, leopard and cheetah remain, as do giraffe, buffalo, elephant and many of the antelope. Having said this the resident game between June and October is still very good and you will be sharing it with far fewer vehicles. The local landscape features marshlands, two lakes (Lake Ndutu and Lake Masek) and expanses of woodlands, all surrounded by the Serengeti's grassy plains.
For trips further afield, the Oldupai (aka Olduvai) Gorge museum is an hour's drive from the lodge, and the Ngorongoro Crater rim is about two-and-a-half hours' drive away.
Our view
Ndutu Safari Lodge offers an inexpensive and central base from which to explore the short-grass plains of the southern Serengeti and the northern section of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. However, because it is very good value and in a great location, it gets very booked up during the wildebeest migration. You may need to book a year or more in advance to be sure of finding space here.
Tanzania expert
Geographics
- Location
- Serengeti Migration Area, Tanzania
- Ideal length of stay
- During the dry season, two or three nights is typical, although when the wildebeest migration is passing through, from about December to April, some guests stay here for up to a week.
- Directions
- Most visitors to Ndutu Safari Lodge drive here with their own safari guide and 4WD, although it's possible to fly to Ndutu airstrip, about 1km away. Ndutu Safari Lodge is around a two-hour drive from the Ngorongoro Crater.
- Accessible by
- Fly-and-Transfer
Food & drink
- Usual board basis
- Full Board
- Food quality
- Meals at Ndutu Safari Lodge tend to be hearty, filling and fresh. We weren't able to sample the food on our last visit in February 2018, however speaking with the manager we understand that Ndutu Safari Lodge had recently brought in a new chef, and that guests regularly rated the food as excellent.
Breakfast, from 7.00am to 9.00am, consists of a self-service buffet of fresh fruit, cereals and juices. A cooked breakfast and hot drinks can also be ordered. For guests leaving earlier or later, Ndutu will arrange a packed breakfast or, for a small extra charge, a slightly more extensive 'breakfast basket'.
Lunch at Ndutu is from 12.30 to 2.00pm, and this is a three course set menu. When we stayed in 2015, we had a huge lunch, which all felt very homemade. There was a soup starter, followed by a chicken and mushroom pie with plain vegetables and a fresh salad. It was served to the table in glass bowls, from which we helped ourselves.
As at lunch, the four-course dinner (7.30–9.00pm) is substantial set menu, and is served to the table in individual dishes. - Dining style
- Individual Tables
- Dining locations
- Indoor Dining
- Further dining info, including room service
- Room service is very limited. Guests can request early morning drinks to be delivered to their cottage before heading out on an early-morning game drive.
- Drinks included
- No drinks are included; these are bought separately from the bar and can go on a tab that is paid on departure. A beer or glass of wine costs around US$5, and a soft drink US$2. If you prefer to avoid paying for bottled drinking water, you can request filtered water (as provided in the cottages) in the dining room.
Special interests
- Walking safaris
- Ndutu Safari Lodge is just inside the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, where walking safaris in Tanzania are allowed when accompanied by a park ranger. Walks last around two hours and concentrate on the woodlands near Lake Ndutu. Must be pre-arranged.
- See ideas for Walking safaris
- Wildlife safaris
- Ndutu Safari Lodge is a great base for wildlife safaris in Tanzania. It is ideally located for the short-grass plains of the southern Serengeti, especially during the wildebeest migration and the northern side of the Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area.
- See ideas for Wildlife safaris
Children
- Attitude towards children
- Children of all ages are welcome.
- Property’s age restrictions
- There are no age restrictions at Ndutu.
- Special activities & services
- Earlier children's meals can be arranged.
- Equipment
- Cots are available for babies. During meal times, extra cushions can be placed on chairs.
- Generally recommended for children
- Ndutu Safari Lodge is very substantial, open and spacious, so is one of the better accommodation options in the area for children. Birds and animals are seen from the lodge, and there is a small box with a few games at the bar for guests’ use. Due to the close proximity of dangerous game, we don't recommend Ndutu for very small children. Older children who can amuse themselves without excessive noise would be fine here.
- Notes
- Older children need to be closely supervised by their parents, as lion and other animals occasionally wander through camp.
Our travellers’ wildlife sightings from Ndutu Safari Lodge
Since mid-2018, many of our travellers who stayed at Ndutu Safari Lodge have kindly recorded their wildlife sightings and shared them with us. The results are below. Click an animal to see more, and here to see more on our methodology.
100% success
100% success
100% success
100% success
67% success
67% success
67% success
67% success
67% success
67% success
67% success
33% success
33% success
33% success
0% success
0% success
0% success
0% success
Communications
- Power supply notes
- Guests can charge cameras/cellphones when the generator is running from 6.00am to 10.00pm, in the bar and in about three quarters of the cottages. The plug sockets are UK-style three-pin.
- Communications
- There is limited cellphone reception at Ndutu, but guests are asked to use their phones only in their cottages; Skyping around the fire, and the like, is strongly discouraged. There is limited WiFi, both in terms of bandwidth and operating hours, in the main areas only.
- TV & radio
- There is no TV for guests at Ndutu.
- Water supply
- Other
- Water supply notes
- Bathrooms and laundry are supplied by slightly saline 'soda water' from the lake. Rainwater is collected and filtered for the kitchen and dining room, and is provided in the cottages.
Health & safety
- Malarial protection recommended
- Yes
- Medical care
- Ndutu has a first-aid room, and several staff are trained in basic first aid. The lodge has links with a flying doctor service in Arusha and there is a doctor in Karatu. For guests bringing breathing apparatus, there is normally a US$50 per night charge to keep the generator on. Alternatively, bring your own battery pack.
- Dangerous animals
- High Risk
- Security measures
- A laundry service is available at an extra charge of US$1–2 per item. All laundry is hand-washed and sun-dried. Weather permitting, items sent to the laundry in the morning are usually returned later that day.
- Fire safety
- There is a firebreak around Ndutu. All the cottages have fire extinguishers and some staff have been trained to use them.
Activities
4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Hot air ballooning
Extras
- Disabled access
- On Request
- Laundry facilities
- A laundry service is available at an extra charge of US$1–2 per item. All laundry is hand-washed and sun-dried. Weather permitting, items sent to the laundry in the morning are usually returned later that day.
- Money
- Ndutu is happy to exchange small amounts of currency for guests in US dollars, euros and GB pounds.
- Accepted payment on location
- Ndutu accepts most major currencies, as well as Visa and Mastercard credit cards with a 5% surcharge. Card payments are possible via an online payment system.
Other lodges in Serengeti Migration Area
Alternative places to stay in this same area.
Olakira Camp
Comfortable, friendly and relaxed, Olakira Camp moves between the Mara River and the southern Ndutu area, in line with the wildebeest migration.
Sayari Camp
In the northern Serengeti, near the Mara River, luxurious Sayari Camp offers excellent wildife all year – boosted further by the wildebeest migration.
Nomad Serengeti Camp
Serengeti Safari Camp is a well-appointed tented camp that moves several times a year to follow the predicted path of the migration.
Dunia Camp
Dunia Camp is well located for the migration from December to March, and has excellent game viewing for the rest of the year.
Namiri Plains Camp
Namiri Plains is one of the best camps in the Serengeti and its remoteness ensures a fantastic wildlife experience away from the crowds.
Lamai Serengeti
Set high in the kopjes with fantastic views, Lamai Serengeti offers top service and guiding and good migration sightings from Jul-Oct.
Ubuntu Camp
Ubuntu Camp has several locations in the Serengeti, following the wildebeest migration, so it is often in a great location to see the herds.
Kati Kati Camp
Kati Kati is a small, very simple bushcamp, which is well-positioned to explore the wildlife-rich Seronera area.
Serian Serengeti
Serian Serengeti is a mobile tented operation run by Alex Walker which moves between two locations following the wildebeest migration.
Klein's Camp
Klein's Camp, in a private area of the northern Serengeti, sets high standards. Activities include walks, nights drives and Maasai village visits.
Kimondo Camp
Kimondo Camp is based in the remote Lamai Wedge in the northern Serengeti from Jul–Oct, and on the southern Kusini plains from Nov–Mar.
Serengeti under Canvas
Two of the three Serengeti under Canvas camps move through the Serengeti National Park every few months to follow the wildebeest migration.
Grumeti River Camp
Grumeti River Camp offers a laid-back atmosphere combined with top service, first-rate food, expert guiding and an excellent location.
Lemala Kuria Hills
Lemala Kuria Hills is a luxury permanent camp that is ideally located for wildlife all year around, but especially during the wildebeest migration.
Lemala Mara-Ndutu
Lemala Mara-Ndutu is a semi-permanent camp that moves between the north and south of the Serengeti to witness the wildebeest migration.
Lemala Nanyukie
Lemala Nanyukie is a comfortable and stylish tented camp that opened in 2018 in the central Serengeti.
Lemala Ewanjan
Lemala Ewanjan is a comfortable and stylish tented camp in the Seronera area of the central Serengeti National Park.
Kubu Kubu
Kubu Kubu is a contemporary, tented lodge, well located in the central Seronera area of the Serengeti National Park.
Lobo Wildlife Lodge
The large Lobo Wildlife Lodge has simple, functional rooms in a stunning location. It's a good base for exploring the north-eastern Serengeti.
Kusini Camp
Kusini Camp is permanent, luxury camp located on a beautiful kopje in a quiet, wildlife-rich corner of the south-west Serengeti.
Mbalageti Lodge
Mbalageti is a well-run lodge in a quiet part of the Serengeti's western corridor – an ideal location during the Apr-Jun migration.
Serengeti Serena
The Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge is a large, hotel-style lodge and a good family-friendly base from which to explore the central Serengeti.
Serengeti Walking Mobile
This fairly simple camp offers only walking activities, but it's very well done and combines well with more conventional camps or lodges.
Serengeti Sopa Lodge
Serengeti Sopa Lodge is an international-style hotel offering good-value accommodation in the central Serengeti, with lovely views of the plains.
Singita Mara River
Singita Mara River Tented Camp is a luxurious camp in the isolated and rewarding Lamai wedge region of the northern Serengeti.
Serengeti Green Camp
Serengeti Green Camp is a comfortable camping experience, in your own private safari camp and at the heart of a great wildlife area.
Migration Camp
Serengeti Migration Camp is a smart tented camp, good for the wildebeest migration from Jul–Aug, or to explore the Lobo Kopjes any time.
Mkombe's House Lamai
Mkombe's House Lamai is a fully staffed private house in the Wogakuria Kopjes district of Serengeti National Park.
Faru Faru Lodge
On the north bank of the Grumeti River, Faru Faru is a small, chic hideaway in this exclusive corner of the Serengeti.
Sasakwa Lodge
On a hill looking over the Serengeti plains, Sasakwa Lodge is grand, luxurious safari camp, one of the most opulent properties in Tanzania.
Kirurumu Migration Camp
Kirurumu is a rustic tented camp which moves around the Serengeti twice a year to follow the wildebeest migration.
Sabora Tented Camp
Sabora Tented Camp is a smart tented camp – one of the most luxurious, professional and stylish properties to be found in Tanzania.
Olmara Camp
With just eight guest tents, including two family tents and three signature stargazer tents, Olmara is a simple, family-friendly camp with a wonderfully attentive team. The camp captures an authentic bush experience, welcoming travellers of every kind.
Ndutu Kati Kati
Ndutu Kati Kati is a seasonal tented camp, based in the southern Serenget from Dec-Mar, ideal for the migration as it passes through.
Olduvai Camp
Olduvai Camp lies between Ngorongoro and the southern Serengeti plains. It's a good base for the southern plains during the rainy season.
Bushtops
Serengeti Bushtops is a permanent luxury camp in the northern Serengeti, with spacious and private tents with their own hot tubs.
Mara Mara
Mara Mara is a smart tented camp in the northern Serengeti, situated on a small hill close to the Mara River.
Esirai Migration Camp
A season migration camp, with only 8 tents and 1 family tent and plenty of character. Esirai is ideally placed for excellent wildlife and enjoys a simplistic and comfortable under-canvas experience.
Mwiba Lodge
Mwiba Lodge is a luxurious property located on a private concession on the edge of the southern Serengeti.
Nimali Mara
Nimali Mara is a luxurious safari lodge in a quiet region of the northern Serengeti with good access to the wildebeest migration.
Four Seasons Serengeti
The Four Seasons Safari Lodge is the only hotel in the Serengeti offering international facilities such as a gym, spa and children’s club.
Lake Masek Tented Camp
Ideally located for the wildebeest migration from Dec–Apr, Lake Masek Tented Camp is a good, mid-market safari camp.
Seronera Wildlife Lodge
Seronera Wildlife Lodge is large hotel-style safari lodge in the heart of the Serengeti, offering good value and a great location.
Mara Kati Kati
Mara Kati Kati is a simple bush camp in the northern Serengeti, based from Jul-Oct near the Mara River for the wildebeest migration.
Kirawira Camp
Set high on a hill, in the Serengeti's western corridor, Kirawira is a relatively large tented camp in the Serena group.
Mbuzi Mawe
Mbuze Mawe is a comfortable tented camp in a convenient, central-north location when driving through the Serengeti.
Serengeti Pioneer Camp
Serengeti Pioneer Camp is a luxurious tented camp in the central Serengeti, styled on African explorers' camps of the early 20th century.
Taasa Lodge
Taasa Lodge is a slightly quirky option offering guided walks and night game drives, which are not permitted in Serengeti National Park.
Nimali Serengeti
Opened in July 2017, Nimali Serengeti is a smart, permanent tented camp located in the Seronera area of the central Serengeti.
