About Terraco das Quitandas
The house of Terraço das Quitandas is a stunning old building located in the heart of Ilha do Moçambique's stone town.
Over 300 years old, it has been home to many different merchants and traders, and during the last few decades of Portuguese rule, was the staff house for an exceedingly wealthy businessman. However in 2009, many years after Mozambican independence and following some extensive restoration work, it opened its doors as a small boutique hotel. It is one of only a small handful of places to stay on the island of Ilha do Moçambique itself, and is arguably the most authentic. In fact, it feels a bit more like a museum or antiques' shop, with the most stunning collection of furniture we have ever seen under one roof!
Terraço is a very idiosyncratic and quirky place with a real touch of the 'old-world'. This may not suit those who prefer a modern style, but is perfect for those looking for authenticity. Its only potential downfall is that the service is very hit and miss, depending on whether the manager is around or not. As he is the only one who speaks English, he is the only one who can help with any questions. So, while we think this is a great little bed and breakfast, and the perfect base from which to explore Ilha do Moçambique, it only works for the independent traveller who is happy to head out and discover things for themselves. Those who require a higher degree of attention may not enjoy staying here.
Our view
Terraço is a very idiosyncratic and quirky place with a real touch of the 'old-world'. This may not suit those who prefer a modern style, but is perfect for those looking for authenticity. Its only potential downfall is that the service is very hit and miss, depending on whether the manager is around or not. As he is the only one who speaks English, he is the only one who can help with any questions. So, while we think this is a great little bed and breakfast, and the perfect base from which to explore Ilha do Moçambique, it only works for the independent traveller who is happy to head out and discover things for themselves. Those who require a higher degree of attention may not enjoy staying here.
Country manager: Mozambique
Traveller reviews of Terraco das Quitandas
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View galleryTerraco das Quitandas: Our full report
The house of Terraço das Quitandas is a stunning old building located in the heart of Ilha do Moçambique's stone town.
Over 300 years old, it has been home to many different merchants and traders, and during the last few decades of Portuguese rule, was the staff house for an exceedingly wealthy businessman. However in 2009, many years after Mozambican independence and following some extensive restoration work, it opened its doors as a small boutique hotel. It is one of only a small handful of places to stay on the island of Ilha do Moçambique itself, and is arguably the most authentic. In fact, it feels a bit more like a museum or antiques' shop, with the most stunning collection of furniture we have ever seen under one roof!
The collection comes from all over the world and includes pieces from Mali, India, China and of course Mozambique. Many were made specifically for the hotel but many are antiques that have been lovingly collected by the owner over many years. When we were last here we spent almost an hour wondering through the lounge and main areas looking at the pieces of art – from antique chests of drawers, Congolese masks and wall hangings, to gold statues of Buddha and an Indian mother-of-pearl guitar.
When you arrive at Terraço das Quitandas – or just Terraço (pronounced 'teraassa') as it is affectionately referred to – the first thing you see is an enourmous and intricately carved wooden door. This leads through to a huge courtyard with stairs up to the main lounge, which has a view over the road and out towards the sea. It's a large, bright room, with polished stone floors and rustic red walls. There are a number of soft sofas, some antique chairs which are less comfortable but beautiful to look at, and a huge dining table where breakfast is served each morning.
Along from the main lounge is a further small lounge that is open-sided, though covered by a roof. This spot gets a lovely breeze and there is a hammock here, as well as some wicker outdoor furniture; there is also a view of the sea. A third lounge, also covered but open sided, looks into the courtyard, and is where you will find the honesty bar and a few board games.
It is also worth popping up to Terraço's roof terrace, where there isn't much in the way of furniture but there are stunning views over the sea, as well as over the stone town, the statue of Vasco da Gama and the Palace Museum.
Given the age of the house, it's no surprise that the six bedrooms at Terraço das Quitandas are all quite different in shape and size. However, each is charming in its own way, and each is furnished in keeping with the overall antique, Arab-colonial style:
- Two downstairs bedrooms are accessed via the courtyard. One is a modest-sized double room, with a small lounge area furnished with some chairs and floor cushions. There is a spacious en-suite bathroom that includes twin sinks, a toilet and a shower over a large stone bath. The second downstairs room is much larger with a double bed, and a further two single beds, so perfect for families with a couple of older children. Again this is en suite, but it has only a shower.
- Upstairs on the first floor are two quite similar rooms that are extremely spacious, with a double bed and an additional large lounge area. These two rooms boast a mix of dark Arab furniture, Persian rugs on the floor and perfectly white European sofas. Both have separate but private bathrooms across the hall with a toilet, sink and shower.
- Also on the first floor is another quite small room, mostly occupied by a large double bed, but with just about room for some very low antique chairs set either side of a bao board (a traditional Africa board game). The en-suite bathroom has a modern shower that is rather out of keeping – though the very beautiful antique vanity unit somewhat makes up for this.
- On the second floor is the final room, set on the roof and feeling a bit like an attic room. Although it doesn't have the same degree of thoughtful style as the others, it does have plenty of space and the advantage of direct access onto the roof terrace. There is also a small en-suite bathroom with a shower, toilet and sink.
Terraço das Quitandas is conveniently located towards the north of Ilha do Moçambique, right by the main square and the Vasco da Gama statue. This makes it a great base from which to explore the main sights, such as the Palace Museum, Sacred Art Museum and Fort São Sebastião. It is also only a short walk to the southern end of the island where you can see the makuti (reed-and-thatch) town where most of the island's residents live, and where you will find both boat-builders and local fisherman bringing in their catch. Terraço can arrange a half-day tour with a guide at US$70 per couple, to include entrance fees to the various museums on the tour. Or you can pick up a local guide from the Palace Museum for slightly cheaper.
It is worth noting that the convenient location does also place Terraço right in the heart of a busy part of town. The fishermen head out early, the mosques call to prayer and the streetsellers set up their stalls – all at first light. Don't expect a lie in when you stay here.
Geographics
- Location
- Nampula Province, Mozambique
- Ideal length of stay
- Spend at least two nights at Terraço das Quitandas so that you have a full day to explore the island and all its sights. Those really interested in history may even want to spend three nights on Ilha do Moçambique – because there is a lot to see and absorb here.
- Directions
- Ilha do Moçambique is a two-hour drive from Nampula Airport on good tarmac roads, and across a 3km causeway. Once you are on the island, Terraço das Quitandas is just a short five-minute drive to the north.
- Accessible by
- Fly-and-Transfer
Food & drink
- Usual board basis
- Bed & Breakfast
- Food quality
- Terraço das Quitandas normally serves only breakfast, but for this one meal, they really do go all out. We were offered eggs and bacon, a selection of cereals, cheeses, yoghurt and fruit. There was also a small selection of locally bought breads and pastries with jam. This was accompanied by fruit juice, tea and coffee. Breakfast times are very flexible and depend entirely on when you want to get up.
You can arrange to have lunch and dinner here as well, provided you give 24 hours' notice. However, there are a number of cafés and restaurants nearby that serve great food, so we never opted to stay at Terraço das Quitandas for additional meals. - Dining style
- Group Meals
- Dining locations
- Indoor Dining
- Further dining info, including room service
- No.
- Drinks included
- Drinks are not included at Terraço das Quitandas. There is a small honesty bar with a limited selection of drinks, costing US$2.50 for a soft drink, US$3 for a beer and US$20 for a bottle of wine.
Special interests
- Cultural Experiences
- A boutique hotel in the heart of Ilha de Moçambique’s stone town, Terraço das Quitandas offers an authentic stay in a historical and culture rich area. It's suited to the more independent traveller who is willing to explore and discover the island for themselves.
- See ideas for Cultural Experiences in Mozambique
Children
- Attitude towards children
- Terraço das Quitandas will accept children of any age.
- Property’s age restrictions
- No.
- Special activities & services
- No.
- Equipment
- No.
- Generally recommended for children
- We think that Terraço das Quitandas is quite an adult boutique hotel with lots of valuable and breakable items dotted around, so it wouldn't be suitable for small children.
Communications
- Communications
- There is no internet available at Terraço das Quitandas, but there is cell phone reception and guests can also borrow the office phone – albeit at an additional charge.
- TV & radio
- There is no TV.
Health & safety
- Malarial protection recommended
- Yes
- Medical care
- No one at Terraço das Quitandas is first-aid trained and there is no first-aid box here either. They do have some very simple supplies such as plasters and there is a pharmacy down the road. For more serious medical issues the nearest good hospital is in Nampula, a two-hour drive away.
- Dangerous animals
- Low Risk
- Security measures
- There are security guards at the gate, which is always locked.
- Fire safety
- There are fire extinguishers dotted around the building.
Activities
Extras
- Disabled access
- Not Possible
- Laundry facilities
- There is no formal system at Terraço das Quitandas for laundry, but we were told that you could arrange this with housekeeping and discuss a fee with them.
- Money
- There are no safes or currency-exchange facilities at Terraço das Quitandas.
- Accepted payment on location
- You can settle your bill at Terraço das Quitandas in cash only. Accepted currencies include British pounds, US dollars, euros and Mozambican meticals.
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Terraco das Quitandas's location
Look closer at the environment and surroundings of Terraco das Quitandas.
Other lodges in Nampula Province
Alternative places to stay in this same area.
Coral Lodge
Coral Lodge 15.41 is a luxury lodge in a remote part of central Mozambique and is a great base from which to explore the historical Ilha do Mozambique
Nuarro Mozambique
Nuarro is a small eco lodge in a remote location, offering exceptional diving and friendly service well off any tourist trail.
When to go to Nampula Province
Our month by month guide: What it's like to visit Terraco das Quitandas in Nampula Province
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Mozambique in January
January is one of the wettest, hottest and most humid months in Mozambique, with average daytime temperatures reaching the low 30s °C, dropping only to around 24°C at night. Although the rain falls mostly as tropical downpours in late afternoon/evening, with the rest of the time sunny, there are definitely better times to visit.
Diving is generally good, but visibility can be limited. Dolphins are abundant, but humpback whales have moved out and this is the last month with a reasonable chance of spotting whale sharks and manta rays. On beaches, turtles lay their eggs and by the end of the month some are beginning to hatch.
After the busy Christmas/New Year period lodges are almost empty, so it’s a good time to avoid the “crowds”.
- One of the wettest & hottest months, with high humidity
- Diving is fair but visibility can be poor
- Great for dolphin viewing
- Turtles laying eggs, which begin to hatch by end of month
- The low season so lodges much quieter, but for a reason
Our view
A time to avoid if possible
Weather in January
Mozambique in February
The hot, wet weather continues, with rainfall at its peak in February in the south, and temperatures as high as those experienced in January; this is also the start of the cyclone season. Such storms are relatively rare but when they do occur they bring widespread devastation and disruption. Although the sea is wonderfully warm, beaches can be pretty windy and diving at this time of the year can be more challenging, with choppier waters and sometimes pretty poor visibility.
As such, lodges tend to have good availability. The chances of seeing manta rays and whale sharks are minimal now, but turtles are still laying eggs followed by hatchlings making a dash for the ocean.
- Rain & hot weather peaks, as does the humidity
- Start of the cyclone season
- Diving conditions can be more challenging
- Great month for turtle watching
- Warm seas
Our view
A time to avoid if possible
Weather in February
Mozambique in March
Rainfall is still high, peaking in the north – where it continues for longer than in the south – and the threat of tropical cyclones remains (2019 saw Idai wreak havoc). Temperatures fall ever so slightly but it’s still hot, with daily temperatures averaging 30°C and nights around 23°C. It’s still pretty humid but this begins to drop away towards the end of the month when the weather generally starts to improve.
Diving, as in previous months, can be OK with warm seas, but conditions are unpredictable, and visibility is still only fair. Of the key marine species, only dolphins are now regularly seen and the last of the turtle hatchlings make for the sea. Availability is usually good, but when Easter falls in March, lodges can get booked up early.
- Rainfall eases but still a chance of significant downpours
- Cyclones remain a threat
- Diving is reasonable, but visibility can be hit and miss
- Turtle spotting excellent
- Although low season, Easter can get booked up quickly
Our view
This is not a great time to visit
Weather in March
Mozambique in April
Although rain still lingers in the north, the rainy season in the south draws to an end. Temperatures are still high but as the rain peters out, humidity drops considerably and so it feels much more comfortable. There is still a small risk of tropical cyclones (as in 2019, when cyclone Kenneth hit), but these are usually extremely rare.
Diving conditions improve with increased visibility and the sea is still warm, so April can be a lovely month for diving or a beach holiday. It is also excellent for fishing, with most of the game fish species being present. Lodges begin to see more visitors and can get especially busy over Easter.
- Rainy season comes to an end in the south
- Good weather for a beach holiday sets in
- Diving, improves with increased visibility & warm seas
- Excellent fishing conditions
- Visitor numbers begin to increase, especially around Easter
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in April
Mozambique in May
As the rains cease in the north, May marks the start of the dry season across Mozambique (although the odd freak cyclone has been known to make landfall, this is exceptional). The days are warm and sunny, with low humidity and temperatures around 27°C, while evenings start to cool to around 16°C. It’s a really good month to visit coastal areas and as such the lodges get a bit busier and prices start to rise.
Diving continues to improve with good visibility and calm waters, and the excellent game fishing conditions continue. Lastly, Mozambique’s biggest international music festival, Azgo, takes place in Maputo during May.
- Start of the dry season: virtually no rainfall & humidity drops
- Diving continues to improve with good visibility & calm seas
- Excellent fishing conditions continue
- Azgo international music festival in Maputo
- Lodges get busier & prices increase
Our view
A very good time to visit
Weather in May
Mozambique in June
Good weather continues with pleasantly warm days, clear skies and a bit of a breeze – ideal for a relaxing beach holiday. Diving conditions are near perfect with good visibility, though note that sea temperatures are dropping by a couple of degrees. Southern right whales start appearing along the coastline. The excellent deep-sea fishing continues. On Ibo Island in the Quirimbas Archipelago, 24 June sees the Feast of St John the Baptist – celebrated as Kueto Siriwala (“to not forget your roots”) day. Expect dhow races as well as traditional music and dance.
Lodges are getting busier and with Mozambique’s month-long summer holiday beginning in late June, it’s advisable to book well in advance. This is one of the best months and prices increase, reflecting the move into this peak season.
- Weather now very good
- Southern right whales start appearing along the coast
- Diving conditions are superb
- Kueto Siriwala festival on Ibo
- Lodges getting busier & therefore prices higher
Our view
Fantastic: the very best time to visit
Weather in June
Mozambique in July
The dry season is now in full swing so clear blue skies abound. Warm, sunny days and cool evenings continue, with average temperatures between 25°C during the day and 16°C at night. July is definitely one of the best months to visit the Mozambique coast, though beaches can be a little windy. Humpback whales begin making their long annual migration from Antarctica to the warmer waters off East Africa to calve; if you’re lucky you may get to see them, especially at the end of the month.
Diving and snorkelling conditions are reaching optimum levels with generally excellent visibility, though the water is now chilly by Mozambique standards. Fishing is still very good for most game species. Lodges are filling up due to northern hemisphere school holidays.
- Warm sunny days & cool evenings
- Diving conditions now almost perfect
- Humpback whales begin arriving
- Fishing still very good
- School holiday time, so lodges are filling up
Our view
Fantastic: the very best time to visit
Weather in July
Mozambique in August
As in July, the days are lovely and warm – great for lying on a beach, though there’s a slight chill to the evenings and the sea is at its coolest at around 16°C. This is one of the best times to visit Mozambique, and is a great month for diving as visibility now reaches its peak, but it can be a bit windy. Humpback whale numbers are increasing, and manta rays and whale sharks start to appear, though are not a common sighting.
Fishing drops off a bit but some species such as sailfish and queen mackerel are still taking bait. August is very popular – probably the busiest month – so lodges can be quite full and family-friendly resorts will have more children around.
- Days still nice & warm with cooler, but pleasant evenings
- Optimal diving conditions.
- Whales numbers increase; the odd manta ray & whale shark may be seen
- Fishing starts to tail off a little
- Lodges at high occupancy levels, so can be busy
Our view
Fantastic: the very best time to visit
Weather in August
Mozambique in September
In September, temperatures begin to climb and warm, sunny days continue, although evenings are still cooler (averaging around 28°C in the day and 19°C at night); this is historically the driest month in Mozambique. Whale watching is getting even better as numbers increase and, as in August, diving and snorkelling conditions are excellent with great visibility.
Sightings of whale sharks and manta rays begin to increase, and while dolphins are seen throughout the year, September is the start of the best dolphin-viewing period. The fishing is good with marlin, sailfish and kingfish all possibilities. Although the school holidays have ended it is still high season and still a popular month – it’s our favourite month here.
- Arguably our favourite month
- Temperatures start rising – the weather is beautiful
- Superb diving & snorkelling conditions continue
- Sightings of whale sharks & mantas rays pick up
- Great for dolphin viewing & whales still present in good numbers
Our view
Fantastic: the very best time to visit
Weather in September
Mozambique in October
October is the hottest of the dry months with daytime temperatures peaking at around 30°C and evenings feeling balmy at around 20°C. With the heat building, the rains can begin right at the end of the month. The fishing is very good, especially for the bigger game fish like marlin.
October is also considered the best month for whale watching, and one of the best for dolphins, which are present in good numbers. The chances of seeing whale sharks and manta rays also increase as the seas warm up; this, and the next two months, are best for sightings. Like August and September, October is also excellent for diving and snorkelling, with superb visibility, thus it’s another popular month, and carries peak season prices.
- Hottest of the dry months
- Excellent whale & dolphin watching
- Chances of seeing whale sharks & mantas increase
- Diving conditions remain excellent
- Fishing for certain game fish species is very good
Our view
A very good time to visit
Weather in October
Mozambique in November
As the dry season ends and the wet season starts, the weather becomes a lot more unpredictable. Days are very hot with humidity increasing, though rainfall is still fairly low. November heralds the return of turtles coming ashore to nest and lay their eggs. With visibility still pretty clear, diving and snorkelling conditions remain good. There is still a decent chance of seeing humpback whales before they begin heading off towards the end of the month, whilst sightings of whale sharks and manta rays remain good, and dolphin sightings excellent.
Fishing for certain species, especially kingfish and marlin, remains excellent. It’s no longer high season so prices of some lodges come down.
- Days hot but weather becomes a somewhat unpredictable
- Diving still good
- Start of the turtle-nesting season; humpback whales begin to leave
- Good month for dolphins, whale sharks & mantas
- Lodge prices starting to come down
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in November
Mozambique in December
Days are still hot, with rising humidity making it feel a lot stickier. Average daytime temperatures hit 31°C+, with evenings around 23°C. December is one of the rainiest months, but expect short sharp thunderstorms as opposed to lengthy rainfall. The turtle-nesting season is now in full swing, so seeing females laying their eggs becomes a possibility. As humpback whales head back south, sightings become scarce, but dolphins, whale sharks and manta rays are still present in good numbers.
Fishing for marlin, bonito and kingfish is still excellent. Sea visibility is generally good, but it can become a little hit and miss as the sun and warm seas encourage plankton blooms. Christmas and New Year are very popular periods despite invariably carrying price supplements.
- Days are hot & a lot more humid
- Turtles laying their eggs on beaches
- Whale season is now largely over
- Dolphins, whale sharks & mantas are still present
- Christmas & New Year get booked up early, & cost more
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in December
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