Crawshay's Zebra Safari: Day-by-day

To look out over the Luangwa River from Nkwali’s open-fronted chalets is to feel at one with the bush. It’s a oneness that is enhanced by the mature mahogany, ebony and sausage trees whose shade shelters the little camp.

High ceilings and flagstone floors in the six stone-and-thatch chalets help to keep them cool, too, while en-suite bathrooms with open-air double showers emphasise the connection with the environment – in total privacy, of course.

The theme continues in the open-sided “chitenge”, where comfortable chairs and a small bar merge with a wooden deck over the river. Delicious meals are served here, or in the thatched dining area, close to the camp’s waterhole, while loungers around the small pool offer yet more options for relaxation – or watching the birds.

While it’s the natural world that underpins the camp’s ambience, its location, a relatively short drive from the small airport, makes it exceptionally accessible – even during the “emerald” season when most camps in the South Luangwa are closed.

"Camp was in a great location"

J & JfromYork

Arrived 30 Oct 2023, 3 nights

Nkwali’s other trump card is a private pontoon across the river into the national park, where you’ll seek out wildlife with expert guides on 4WD game drives and short walking safaris. See our full report on Nkwali

Top-notch guiding, flexibility and personal service, all wrapped up in a “close to nature” setting: this is Tena Tena. In the remote yet game-rich Nsefu Sector of the South Luangwa, just a stone’s throw from the Luangwa River, the six stylish tents of this intimate little camp are spread out within a shady mahogany grove.

To wander along sandy pathways to the camp’s split-level hub is to get a real feel for the environment – with comfortable seating and a large bar an added bonus.

The upper level is a great place to sit and chat, or to enjoy a convivial meal with fellow guests, while sunset from the lower level is a time to be savoured over a relaxed drink – if you’re not out in the bush, that is.

Central to a day at Tena Tena is to explore on a 4x4 game drive, by day or by night, or even on foot, under the expert guidance of some of the Luangwa’s most experienced guides.

"our guide was excellent"

J & JfromYork

Arrived 27 Oct 2023, 3 nights

Back in camp, whether you’re watching from an armchair on your private veranda, from your king-size bed, or even from the “loo with a view”, the river – or riverbed – is rarely out of sight, a magnet for wildlife, even during the dry season. See our full report on Tena Tena

Viewed from a star bed, or over a leisurely riverboat lunch, the Zambezi takes centre stage at Chiawa. It's a truly special setting for this family-run safari lodge, where attention to detail underpins every aspect of a stay.

Start with the sturdy tents, each with a private river outlook that greets you on waking – and accompanies an afternoon wallow in your sunken bath. Comfort is the watchword here, but there’s no sense of bling – this is understated luxury.

Take in the view from the hub of the camp, too, whose traditional style is a backdrop for a cool drink, relaxing with a book from the library, or star-gazing courtesy of the telescope on the upper storey.

And never far away is the wildlife, for which the Lower Zambezi is famed. From hippos at home in the river to elephants spotted from the viewing platform or any number of animals passing in front of the hides, you scarcely have to leave camp.

But when you do, whether on land or on the river, you’ll be accompanied by guides whose expertise ranges from canoeing to walking safaris, fishing to game drives.

"One of our favourites"

J & JfromYork

Arrived 2 Nov 2023, 3 nights

The pool is cool and welcoming, the food is good, the service exceptional. This is a magical corner of Zambia enhanced by an excellent camp. See our full report on Chiawa Camp

Hidden deep in the Lower Zambezi National Park, Old Mondoro is small and traditional – with plenty of subtle creature comforts. Owned and operated by the Cumings family, the camp has long been renowned for exceptional guiding in a truly peaceful area of the park. In such experienced hands, this is a place where the wildlife comes first – so don’t be surprised to have an impromptu night drive if leopard are spotted during dinner.

With just four reed-enclosed chalets, intimacy here is guaranteed. Looking out over the water – the Zambezi or a natural lagoon – from waist-high walls, the chalets are as close to nature as possible.

Canvas flaps can be rolled down at night should you wish, and discreet electric lighting is on hand, but foregoing these “luxuries” simply enhances the connection with the bush. Few would begrudge the permanent hot water, though – especially if you choose to take a bath under the trees.

"Excellent guide and wildlife viewing."

Dr and Mrs KfromDerby

Arrived 13 Oct 2023, 3 nights

The open layout of the camp allows wildlife to roam through unhindered. And as elephants are partial to the overhanging winterthorn trees, you may well have to let them finish browsing before returning from a hearty lunch to your chalet. That’s the deal at Old Mondoro – and it’s very much a bonus. See our full report on Old Mondoro Bushcamp