Hemingways Watamu: Our full report

On Turtle Bay beach at Watamu, two hours’ drive north of Mombasa, Hemingways Watamu is a mid-sized game-fishing ...

... base and small resort hotel. Its name harks back to Ernest Hemingway’s stay in Malindi in 1934.

Hemingways Watamu is part of the same small group that owns the long-established and popular luxury hotel Hemingways Nairobi and the safari camp Hemingways Ol Seki Mara in the Mara Naboisho Conservancy.

The Watamu stretch of coastline is less developed and much quieter than the popular Diani beach south of Mombasa. For those looking for a relaxed and quieter beach stay then this could be a good option.

Hemingways Watamu has a laid back atmosphere, but with friendly and efficient service. It is a popular property with both international tourists and local residents. While not a large resort there are plentiful places to relax so that it never feels overcrowded.

Hemingways’ 60 rooms, all have views of the Indian Ocean, but are divided into a couple of different categories, in two different 'wings'. There are 21 luxury apartments (one bedroom, two bedroom and four bedroom options available) and 39 comfortably appointed rooms (13 Deluxe rooms on the upper floor, and 26 standard rooms on the lower and ground floor).

The hotel rooms have had a full renovation in recent years, and are a good option for those on a slightly more economical stay. However we were most impressed with the apartments which were spacious, light, airy and luxuriously fitted. They come complete with large balconies, a lounge and fully equipped kitchen. Even if you had no intention of doing any self catering, we would still recommend these rooms as they offer more space.

Hemingways’ reception, guest services, well-stocked shop and cashier/foreign-exchange desk are under a large roof of makuti (palm-leaf tiles), creating a comfortably cool welcome around the hotel’s central area. Here you will also find the on-site activities office and a small little coffee shop serving hot drinks and pastries.

The large open-sided main restaurant is just around the corner near the two modest-sized (20m) teardrop-shaped pools, and one smaller childrens pool, all overlooking the ocean, and extensive terrace area. Also close to the pool area is the beach bar restaurant, with its TV and brightly re-coloured mounted game-fish trophies on the walls.

There is a quieter pool set further back in the tropical gardens, which is designed to be for adults only. Nearby is a small gym and spa offering a range of massages and beauty treatments.

The best-known activity at Hemingways Watamu is what Ernest Hemingway came to the Kenya coast to do – game fishing – though he allegedly stayed up late drinking at the Blue Marlin in Malindi and never actually saw any rod-and-line action! Hemingways is an internationally recognised game-fishing centre and has four boats, ranging from 33ft to 54ft, all equipped for this exhilarating pursuit (and most fish these days are tagged and released). The season starts in July and becomes busy from October or November when the south-east kusi wind changes to the north-east kaskazi. This period, until April, is when big billfish such as swordfish, marlin and sailfish, can be caught.

However, if fishing does not appeal, then there is an array of other activities that can be organised by the pro-active team. The beach itself is quite small, and due to the very tidal nature along this coastline, is not particularly conducive to sunbathing. However, you can go snorkelling straight off the beach, with complimentary loan of equipment. When we stayed we really enjoyed a snorkelling trip and dolphin watching boat ride. It is also possible to organise kite-surfing, scuba diving and PADI certification. Sunset dhow cruises on Mida Creek are popular. Or if you prefer to be on terra firma then the team can assist in arranging a round of golf on the nearby world class course, Vipingo Ridge.

Our view

When we first visited Hemingways Watamu we were not blown away. However, subsequent visits and a more recent overnight stay since, we were quite impressed. While this is not an overly luxurious property, the recent renovations and financial investment really show, and the addition of the apartments have really elevated its offering. There is a good range of activities available and it's location will suit people looking for a quieter surroundings compared to the busier Diani area. The staff are thoughtful and friendly, and many guests form lasting connections from repeat visits.

Lyndsey Marris

Kenya expert

Geographics

Location: Kenya Coast, Kenya
Ideal length of stay: 3–6 days
Directions: Mombasa’s Moi International Airport is 2½ hours from Hemingways; Malindi Airport 30 minutes.
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Half Board
Food quality: Hemingways main restaurant is open for breakfast and dinner. The Pagoda à la carte restaurant opens for lunch and dinner.
Dining style: Individual Tables
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Further dining info, including room service: Yes: Ksh400 (US$5) extra per service.
Drinks included: Two free small bottles of water per day per guest are included.
Bar prices are reasonable, with local beers at the time of writing Ksh275 (about US$3.50), soda Ksh90 (US$1) and house wine Ksh400/glass (U$5)

Special interests

Beach holidays: Hemingways is an internationally recognised game-fishing centre where you can try your luck hooking swordfish, marlin, sailfish and sharks. You can also go dolphin-watching, snorkel straight off the beach and go on BBQ and dhow trip to Sudi Island.; See ideas for Beach holidays in Kenya

Children

Attitude towards children: Children are welcome.
Property’s age restrictions: None
Special activities & services: Babysitting is available from housekeeping.
Equipment: Cots and highchairs available.
Generally recommended for children: Hemingways Watamu is a child friendly property that will work well for families.

Communications

Communications: Direct-dial phone in rooms. There’s WiFi access throughout the hotel, plus a business centre.
TV & radio: In-room TVs in Executive Suites only. TV at bar and in TV room (movies, sport etc on satellite channel DStv).

Sustainability

Fighting against ocean plastic pollution

Located in one of the world’s richest fishing grounds, Hemingways Watamu earns its renown by making consistent efforts to conserve protected species for everyone to enjoy on one of the best snorkeling and diving areas on the coast of Africa. The hotel’s newest eco-awareness project which seeks to encourage proper disposal of plastic waste stands as proof for its sustainable commitment.

In July 2018, Hemingways has announced its partnership with EcoWorld Watamu, an NGO which employs disadvantaged locals to collect plastic debris along the beach and teaches them how to proper reuse or recycle it. All plastic waste from the hotel’s operations is sent to EcoWorld where it gets melted before being used for other purposes. The initiative not only helps remove plastic waste from the ocean, but also generates income for locals, as they use the recycled waste to create artworks, furniture, fence posts, and trinkets which can be further sold. Results are already visible. The hotel has banned the use of plastic straws within its premises, and has also replaced several palm leaf roofs with ones made from recycled plastic.

In addition, Hemingways Watamu seeks to educate guests on the impact that plastic waste has on the fragile environment. It offers them the possibility to learn about the Watamu Marine Association and EcoWorld Watamu, spend a day joining in on the recycling process, or even collect garbage as they are exploring Watamu beach using one of the hotel’s recycled plastic bags provided in their room.

See more great sustainability projects in Kenya

Health & safety

Malarial protection recommended: Yes
Medical care: A fee-paying doctor visits Hemingways Mon–Fri 7.00 – 8:00am and 1.00¬–2.00pm. Extra charges for call-out.
Dangerous animals: Low Risk
Security measures: There’s a minimum of two askaris on duty by day, and many at night, when G4S security guards also patrol the site.
Fire safety: Fire extinguishers are in many areas; smoke alarms; trained staff.

Activities

Birdwatching
Boat trip
Scuba-diving
Snorkelling
Watersports

Extras

Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: Full Laundry Service - Extra Charge
Money: Foreign exchange is available.
Room safes.
Accepted payment on location: Cash payments may be made in US dollars, euros, pounds sterling or Kenyan shillings. Visa and MasterCard are accepted, with a surcharge.