About Lewa House

Lewa House: Our full report

Centrally located on the 250km² Lewa Conservancy, with fine views of the surrounding hilly savannahs and ...

... south to Mount Kenya, Lewa House is a farmstyle homestead. Owned and run by a Kenyan-Scots couple, Lewa House is both a home and a unique safari lodge built upon generations of passionate conservationists and farm to plate agronomists.

Set on a hilltop and blending into the natural environment, Lewa House is owner-run by Sophie and Calum McFarlane. Sophie’s great grandfather settled in the area and created Lewa Ranch in 1922. His philosophy was always to ‘leave space for the wildlife’ and his legacy is apparent in this modern-day safari lodge which combines farmstead with wildlife experiences in the animal rich Lewa Conservancy.

The centre of the lodge is a handsome, open fronted, stone and thatch hall. Comfortable lounge seating, a large stone fireplace, a piano, wildlife and geological artefacts, family photos and artwork all combine to offer a sense of the family’s character, history and passion for their home. In the evenings, guests and hosts come together in the hall to dine around a large, rustic table.

The surrounding lawn is shaded by mature trees and grazed short by the family’s two horses. Down a gentle slope, yet still elevated enough to enjoy the spectacular views, a heated pool surrounded by patio gardens offers a tranquil space for relaxing and swimming. The adjacent covered terrace is a wonderful location for breakfasts and lunches. Both have views down to a small waterhole that entices wildlife.

Lewa House's guest rooms radiate around the northern and eastern fringes of the grounds, while to the south-west are the back-of-house areas, staff quarters and farm buildings.

Lewa House has seven cottages. Originally, these were traditional, Kenya-settler-style family cottages with thatch roofs and handmade furniture. Over time these have been replaced, with the last one due to be rebuilt by 2026. Designed by Sophie’s father, the newer organically shaped ‘earthpods’ have something of Gaudi about them and blend beautifully into the environment. The thoughtful building style also allows rainwater to be collected and ensures an even inside temperature. Four of the earthpods are standard rooms, and three are two-room units with two en-suite bedrooms and a shared lounge.

The interior of these curved, stone earthpods has an entranceway, one or two spacious bedrooms, large bathrooms and an outside seating area. Wooden window framing, bed heads and side boards have been beautifully crafted in Lewa House’s farm workshop. African furniture pieces have been individually collected; soft furnishings have been carefully chosen to bring a little vibrancy; and built-in skylights bring light and a sense of airiness to the rooms. Beds are covered by mosquito net canopies and all the views have been masterfully framed by arched windows and rounded walls.

Apart from enjoying views and setting from each room, and the plants and bird life in the gardens, the main activity at the house itself is a tour of the back-of-house and farm areas with the owners, often accompanied by the family dogs. You can visit their fruit and veg garden and meet their well-fed pigs, their pampered dairy cows and contented chickens. You'll have a chance to see how solar energy is stored, perhaps try milking, and ponder the science of vermiculture – worm-farming which makes use of the pig's leftovers to create something called “worm tea", used to fertilise the gardens. A small wetland area is nurtured by grey water from the showers.

The McFarlanes, whose family also runs Browns' Cheese Farm outside Nairobi, run the farm and gardens on biodynamic principles promoted by Rudolf Steiner – essentially organic practice with a little astrology thrown in – which does away with weeding in favour of digging everything back into the soil.

Lewa House also has a small curio shop which stocks beautifully crafted jewellery and homeware. Much of this has been produced locally, with proceeds going back in to the community.

Lewa House's safari activities explore the beautiful and scenic Lewa Conservancy on game drives and walks. The lodge has three open-sided Land Cruisers, each equipped with bean bags and camera platforms. Where possible, every couple or group will get their own vehicle. The conservancy rules that enforce a limit of three vehicles per animal encounter ensures respect for the wildlife and uncrowded sightings.

Game drives can be done in the mornings, afternoons and at night, after an early dinner on request. There’s a wonderful variety of wildlife on the conservancy – in a stay of a few days you're likely to see elephants, numerous sightings of both black and white rhinos, and have countless encounters with grazers and browsers of every description from tiny dik-dik to lofty reticulated giraffe. Lions and cheetahs are seen fairly regularly, and leopards less commonly.

Lewa is on a wildlife corridor between the highlands to the south and northern Kenya: the conservancy perimeter, while fenced and patrolled, has gaps to the north, south and west, allowing all the wildlife – with the exception of rhino – to disperse as mood and seasons dictate. Ingenious wildlife “gates” use heavy posts to block the passage of rhinos while allowing slimmer or taller species to move through. Rare Grevy's zebra are a particular feature at Lewa, as are Beisa oryx and Somali ostrich.

As well as game drives, guests at Lewa House can do a walking safari led by a walking guide, Wilfred, who used to be a ranger and part of the anti-poaching patrol for the conservancy. We found time on foot with him to be fun, informative and very interesting.

Lewa's hand-axe site is a fascinating reminder of human evolution and changing landscapes. It's located on what used to be the shores of a wide ancient lake, and there are hundreds of large, sharp-edged stone tools, shaped by blows from another stone, scattered about on the ground. Answers to the fascinating questions about the identity and purpose of the makers – why here? why were they left behind? was it a factory? a marketplace? – are all up for grabs. When Calum, a fully qualified FGASA trails guide, is in camp he will meet guests at the site on request for a very interesting talk on this rare archaeological location and its part in evolution and human migration out of Africa.

If you're interested in Lewa's rhino conservation work, you can visit the communications and security headquarters at the main Lewa Conservancy HQ. A monitor on the wall tracks rhino movements and charts identify individuals through ear-notchings. It's an interesting if slightly sobering reminder of the gravity of the round-the-clock work required to ensure the long-term survival of these magnificent creatures. You may also have the opportunity to meet the conservancy tracking dogs during your visit.

Other activities a little further afield include a trip to the Ngare Ndare Forest; a visit to the Il Ngwesi Maasai community's village; horse and camel riding; fly-camping and scenic helicopter rides. If you stay three or more nights at Lewa House, a day trip to the forest or a horse-riding experience is included in the cost. Otherwise, these activities incur an extra charge.

Ngare Ndare Forest is part of an ancient forest around base of Mt Kenya. A community initiative now forms a critical wildlife corridor between Mt Kenya and Laikipia/Samburu eco-systems. Enjoy beautiful woodlands, excellent birding, cooling off in natural pools and a canopy walk suspended 40m up amongst the trees. Visiting Il Ngwesi Community is an insightful and fascinating way to learn something of the rich cultural heritage of the area. It’s where some of the camp team come from and the locals are keen to show visitors into their homes and lifestyles. There will be some curios for sale and bargaining is encouraged. Horse and camel riding are offered through a third party, not Lewa House – though these can be easily arranged for you. Rides usually take place in the afternoon, and no experience is necessary. Scenic helicopter flights take up to four passengers, and you can opt to have the doors on or off. This activity should be arranged in advance and takes in the Mt Kenya or Samburu ecosystems and the sacred mountain of the Samburu people, called Ololokwe. For guests staying longer, or who are particularly interested, it is possible to visit a local school, clinic or one of the area’s other community projects such as forestry, agriculture, adult literacy classes, and women’s microcredit schemes.

Finally, if you ask ahead or stay long enough, you may get the chance to be briefly involved with the conservancy's veterinary and management practices, for example elephant darting, or managing individual animals that need attention. Such opportunities are, however, very much off the menu of standard activities and cannot be guaranteed.