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Sweetwaters Serena Camp
Sweetwaters Serena Camp
Sweetwaters Serena Camp
Sweetwaters Serena Camp

Sweetwaters Serena Camp


0°0’9.9"S 36°56’41.9"E

About Sweetwaters Serena Camp

The oldest lodgings in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Sweetwaters Serena Camp is a large tented camp in the eastern ...

... sector of the conservancy, catering predominantly to a mid-range, drive-in group safari market. Part of the international Serena Hotels group whose largest shareholder is the Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development, the camp has full hotel facilities.

This is a reasonably comfortable and secure option for a stay at Ol Pejeta, and we think it's particularly suitable for young families and some first-time visitors new to the safari experience. With its consistent standards and pleasant, landscaped environment it doesn't feel too different from a country retreat hotel. The waterhole attracts plenty of wildlife and Mount Kenya is often visible – as are the lights of Nanyuki town, just a few kilometres away.

Our view

This is a reasonably comfortable and secure option for a stay at Ol Pejeta, and we think it's particularly suitable for young families and some first-time visitors new to the safari experience. With its consistent standards and pleasant, landscaped environment it doesn't feel too different from a country retreat hotel. The waterhole attracts plenty of wildlife and Mount Kenya is often visible – as are the lights of Nanyuki town, just a few kilometres away.

Lara Webster

Lara Webster

Kenya expert

Accommodation

56 tents

Children

Best for 7+

Open

All year

Activities

4WD Safari

4WD Safari

Birdwatching

Birdwatching

Guided walking safari

Guided walking safari

Night drive

Night drive

Private activities

Private activities

Traveller reviews of Sweetwaters Serena Camp

2 real, un-edited reviews from Expert Africa's travellers.


100%
2 reviews since August 2007
Excellent
2
Good
0
Average
0
Poor
0
Terrible
0
Patel GroupfromInd-USA

Arrived 3 Nov 2024, 2 nights

"Sweetwaters Serena Camp review"

"The location of this resort is fantastic...a glorious "colonial era" property .. …" Read Patel Group’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

The M familyfromMichigan

Arrived 23 Aug 2015, 3 nights

"Sensational Sweetwaters Serena"

"June of 1995, 20 long years ago, I stayed at Sweetwaters Serena Camp. There …" Read The M family’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

See all Sweetwaters Serena Camp reviews

Sweetwaters Serena Camp: Our full report

The oldest lodgings in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Sweetwaters Serena Camp is a large tented camp in the eastern ...

... sector of the conservancy, catering predominantly to a mid-range, drive-in group safari market. Part of the international Serena Hotels group whose largest shareholder is the Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development, the camp has full hotel facilities.

Sweetwaters Serena is one of eight Serena camps, lodges and hotels in Kenya, the most important of which is Mara Serena Safari Lodge in the western part of the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

Approaching Sweetwaters Serena from Nanyuki Airport, first impressions can be somewhat underwhelming as you leave the dusty outskirts of Nanyuki town, clear the formalities at the conservancy gate and drive across an open plain. Ten minutes later you turn into Sweetwaters' grove of acacias and palm trees near the waterhole and the overall impression improves. Set on level terrain, the cool reception and main central building under a red-tiled roof has floor-to-ceiling views through its large windows and French doors onto the conservancy, with the nearby waterhole – illuminated at night – taking centre stage.

Sweetwaters' waterhole is protected by a discreet electric fence and ditch from the camp, effectively bringing the wilds of the conservancy into the heart of the camp, with the tents spread around it in a rough semi-circle. The waterhole attracts plenty of wildlife, including impala, waterbuck, plains zebra and some of the wildlife for which Ol Pejeta is famous – rare Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe and occasionally white rhino. While you don't have any elevation from which to watch down on the waterhole, the wildlife that is attracted to it is often quite close to visitors, and the fence means you can approach on foot. At night, floodlights pick out nocturnal creatures, and also attract vast clouds of insects, including some spectacular moths and beetles (fortunately, mosquito controls in this area have largely removed that menace). It's worth bearing in mind that, while the waterhole and wildlife numbers are a big plus, the proximity of Nanyuki town on this eastern side of the conservancy means you can never quite escape the sense of being near an urban area: at night the town lights, and those of the vegetable polytunnel farms on the lower slopes of the mountain, are hard to miss.

There are two styles of guest tents at Sweetwaters – standard tents and deluxe tents. The 39 standard tents (12 doubles and 27 twins) stretch out through landscaped gardens to the north of the central areas, curling around to face the waterhole, while the superior tents, in a row known as the “Morani Wing" stretch around to the east.

The standard tents are fine, reasonably large canvas tents, with solid thatched roofs above and solid ensuite bathrooms behind. There's a small, shaded deck, with directors' chairs and a table, and inside either twin beds or a king-size double, a small writing desk and an armchair, electric lighting and power points. The tiled bathrooms include a conventional flush loo, single basin and a shower behind a curtain. Good towels and toiletries are provided. There's standard plumbing here and 24-hour hot water, so the only concessions to “camping" are the canvas walls of your tent and the fact that you have a conventional zip up tent front. For the best views of waterhole action, the lower-numbered, front room standard tents on the ground are best placed. Those in the second row, to the rear, are mounted on 2-metre high platforms, but views tend to be obstructed by vegetation.

In the Morani Wing, the 17 deluxe tents (seven doubles, eight twins, two triples), spread out to the east of the camp's central area, and are of a much higher standard. Here, despite the use of canvas walls, the sense of being in a comfortable hotel room is even more accentuated. Fully lockable French doors at the front open onto a large tiled deck, though the vinyl-covered armchairs are not what you would expect, and there's a disappointingly utilitarian feel to the decks, with no prettifying touches. Comfy recliners would be a good addition. Inside, however, the tents are bright and warmly furnished in multi-coloured hues, although there is an awful lot of heavy wood paneling, which is an unexpected touch. The rooms have plenty of space, the beds are firm and very comfortable, with high-weave sheets, and the bathrooms have double basins and are fitted out to a reasonably high standard with glass shower doors as opposed to curtains. While the camp perimeter fence runs fairly close to the front of these tents, so wildlife can sometimes be seen quite near, the deluxe tents are all some distance beyond the waterhole and the tents at the far end are a 300-metre (5–7-minute) walk from the dining room and pool.

For wheelchair users there is one adapted superior tent, with wide access and rails, and likewise one standard with ramps. Other superior tents are relatively practical, too. Wheelchairs are also available to borrow. The camp driver/guides are used to having disabled passengers in their vehicles, though these are not adapted.

The main activities at Sweetwaters are morning and afternoon game drives in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, using the camp's closed Land Cruisers with roof hatches (some guests will be using their own vehicles and some come in group road tours from Nairobi, but Expert Africa's tailor-made safaris in Laikipia invariably use the airport at Nanyuki and the camp's own vehicles). Game drives around the well-managed and densely wildlife-populated conservancy are invariably productive and rewarding. White rhinos are almost always easily seen, while the much more numerous black rhinos tend to be elusive and skittish, with sightings more fleeting.

Bush walks are easy to organize, go direct from camp and return after a loop through the bush, and are accompanied by a scout and a licensed gun-holding guide. You can get relatively close to the white rhinos on these, though black rhinos, elephants and big cats are deliberately avoided.

In common with all the camps on Ol Pejeta, you'll be offered the option of visiting the “Endangered Species Boma" – a large, secure paddock for the conservancy's two female northern white rhinos (extra charge of U$50 per person) and the Chimpanzee Sanctuary, a welfare facility (rather than a breeding and conservation project) for previously captive and orphaned chimpanzees from other parts of Africa. We recommend the visit to the northern whites, which allows you to get very close to the last two remaining individuals of this subspecies, and also includes close sightings of Jackson's hartebeest and Grevy's zebra, and the chance to pay your respects to the blind black rhino Baraka.

Back at camp, the small swimming pool is an attractive magnet and close to the dining room and bar. There are plans for the pool to be extended, more in-keeping with the size of the camp. There's also a small spa and beauty treatment centre.

Unusually, Sweetwaters Serena has no tip box in reception. A tip can be added to your final drinks and extras bill and will be shared among the staff.

Geographics

Location
Laikipia, Kenya
Ideal length of stay
2–3 nights
Directions
21km (25mins) to Nanyuki Airport.
Accessible by
Fly-and-Transfer

Food & drink

Usual board basis
Full Board
Food quality
Hotel-style meals are offered with a reasonable range of choices, usually at least partly as a buffet. When we last visited in 2019, we didn’t get a chance to sample the food, but during a previous stay, lunch started with a good, creamy vegetable soup. The lunch buffet included lots of salads, black bean curry, nice grilled fillets of red snapper, tough slices of steak in a nondescript gravy and some local choices, like butternut squash with githeri (Kikuyu bean and corn stew).

Dinner was a Mongolian-style barbecue (sliced raw meat and vegetables, stir-fried and sizzled to order).

Breakfast was a copious buffet.
Dining style
Individual Tables
Dining locations
Indoor Dining
Further dining info, including room service
Breakfast is served from 06:30-08:30, lunch from 12:30-14:30 and dinner from 19:30-21:00. Tea and coffee are available all day long and there's a wake-up service with tea or coffee and cookies from 06:00 and afternoon tea with cookies at 16:00. Room service is available at no extra charge.
Drinks included
Bottled drinking water is provided in rooms. Water and additional drinks at the bar are extra but reasonably priced. Local beers or a glass of South African wine cost around U$5.

Children

Attitude towards children
Sweetwaters welcomes children of all ages. 6 year olds and below stay free of charge.
Property’s age restrictions
None.
Special activities & services
Children’s menus and early dinners are available.
Babysitting (by ladies from housekeeping) can be arranged. There is no formal payment rate, but a tip is expected.
Equipment
Baby cots and high chairs are available.
Generally recommended for children
Sweetwaters is a safe and dependable choice for younger families and the atmosphere is informal and busy enough to avoid any sense that your offspring might be disturbing others.
Notes
Children can freely roam the grounds inside the electric fence. Little ones would obviously need supervision, and bear in mind that bushbuck and waterbuck also roam the grounds. Bushbuck are medium-sized, timid and essentially harmless antelope (think “roe deer") but waterbuck are a much larger antelope and can very occasionally be aggressive (think “cow"). The camp's security staff generally keep animals in control, and a baboon chaser is stationed at the end of the standard wing to keep those pesky primates in check.

Our travellers’ wildlife sightings from Sweetwaters Serena

Since mid-2018, many of our travellers who stayed at Sweetwaters Serena Camp have kindly recorded their wildlife sightings and shared them with us. The results are below. Click an animal to see more, and here to see more on our methodology.

Buffalo

100% success

Aardvark

0% success

Black Rhino

0% success

Cheetah

0% success

Eland

0% success

Elephant

0% success

Giraffe

0% success

Hippo

0% success

Leopard

0% success

Lion

0% success

Pangolin

0% success

Spotted Hyena

0% success

Striped Hyena

0% success

White Rhino

0% success

Wild dog

0% success

Zebra

0% success

Communications

Power supply notes
Electricity is provided by the National Grid. There is also solar power with two back-up generators so electricity is available 24 hours a day. Hairdryers are provided in rooms.
Communications
Airtel and Safaricom signals are good. There is free Wi-Fi throughout the lodge.
TV & radio
There are TVs (DSTV sallelite channels) in the guest common room.
Water supply
Borehole
Water supply notes
Borehole water is treated in their own treatment plant. Bottled water for drinking is provided to all guests in their tents on a daily basis. This is usually one half-litre bottle per guest per day. Extra bottles may be provided on request, but the camp clearly expects most guests to buy water with meals.

Health & safety

Malarial protection recommended
Yes
Medical care
A nurse is available on site at all times. First-aid kits are available. In addition, Nanyuki Cottage Hospital is very good – one of Kenya’s best outside Nairobi. In an emergency, a helicopter could land easily at Sweetwaters.
Dangerous animals
Moderate Risk
Security measures
There is 24-hour security around the camp. In addition, Ol Pejeta has armed Kenya Wildlife Service rangers.
Fire safety
Every tent has a fire extinguisher and smoke detector. Staff do fire drills every three months and fire training every six months.

Activities

  • 4WD Safari

    4WD Safari

  • Birdwatching

    Birdwatching

  • Guided walking safari

    Guided walking safari

  • Night drive

    Night drive

  • Private activities

    Private activities

Extras

Disabled access
In Place
Laundry facilities
Laundry is available as an extra service, priced by the item, machine washed, tumble-dried and ironed.
Money
There’s a guest safe and forex service at reception.
Accepted payment on location
All major currencies are accepted, as are Mastercard, Visa and Amex with no surcharges.

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Sweetwaters Serena Camp's location

Look closer at the environment and surroundings of Sweetwaters Serena.


Excursions from Sweetwaters Serena

Optional extra day-trips and excursions possible whilst you're staying at Sweetwaters Serena. Talk to us: these are usually best arranged before you go.


Anti-poaching Dogs Display

Anti-poaching Dogs Display

Approx. one hour

Interact with the dog keepers and learn about what it takes to look after the specially trained canine team. Guests are encouraged to try and evade the sniffer dogs, not only is this great fun, but it helps to offer genuine training for the dogs.

More about Anti-poaching Dogs Display
100% (1 reviews)
Northern White Rhinos visit

Northern White Rhinos visit

One hour, usually as part of your drive

Visit the Endangered Species Enclosure at Ol Pejeta Conservancy for a close encounter with the last two remaining northern white rhinos. You can visit either by game drive vehicle or visit on horseback if you're an experienced rider. Other rare species include Jackson's hartebeests and Grevy's zebras.

More about Northern White Rhinos
98% (13 reviews)

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When to go to Laikipia

Our month by month guide: What it's like to visit Sweetwaters Serena in Laikipia


Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Laikipia in January

Clear, warm days and mild nights make this a popular time for safaris in Laikipia. It's excellent for game viewing in all the conservancies, where water sources attract diverse wildlife. The dry conditions make it easier to spot black rhinos, lions and leopards. Star bed sleep-out options at a number of lodges are particularly magical under the clear night skies.

After the New Year period, many camps and lodges treat January as mid-season, offering good value. The landscape retains some greenery, enhancing photography.

  • Clear days ideal for safaris
  • Excellent visibility for wildlife viewing
  • Dry riverbeds attract wildlife to water sources
  • Calving season for wildebeest and antelopes
  • Palearctic migrant birds abundant

Our view

Fantastic: the very best time to visit

Weather in January

Laikipia in February

With the short dry season well established in Laikipia, wildlife gathers close to water points, making it an excellent time for safaris. Ol Pejeta and Lewa Wildlife Conservancies offer prime viewing opportunities for endangered species like black rhinos and Grevy's zebras. Solio Rhino Conservancy provides exceptional black rhino sightings during this period. The grass is grazed down, improving visibility across the region.

February is ideal for walking safaris, where you can appreciate the smaller details of the ecosystem. The clear skies make stargazing from star beds an unforgettable experience. Cultural visits to local communities are particularly rewarding, as the pleasant weather encourages outdoor activities and interactions.

  • Prime time for wildlife gathering near water
  • Ideal conditions for walking safaris
  • Palearctic migrant birds still present
  • Low rainfall makes game drives rewarding

Our view

A very good time to visit

Weather in February

Laikipia in March

As March progresses in Laikipia, the weather becomes increasingly hot and humid with more rain likely later in the month. Through most of the month, conditions are still good for game drives in most districts. As the month advances, the buildup to the rainy season becomes apparent.

This period can offer unique photographic opportunities as animals congregate around diminishing water sources. Accommodation costs decrease as the low season approaches.

  • Early month offers great wildlife viewing
  • Hot weather transitions to occasional rains
  • Lower visitor numbers
  • Lush vegetation begins to appear

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in March

Laikipia in April

April usually sees established, serious rainfall in much of Laikipia, transforming the landscape. The southeast monsoon wind brings cooler temperatures and frequent downpours. While game viewing can be challenging due to lush vegetation, the green season offers unique experiences, with new-born animals visible among the verdant scenery.

The landscape bursts into life with vibrant colours, ideal for photography. Birdwatching is excellent with many species breeding. This is a quieter time for tourism, with lower accommodation rates at many places allowing for a more exclusive safari experience for great levels of service.

  • Long rains begin, transforming landscapes
  • Green season offers unique photo opportunities
  • Lower rates at Laikipia's luxury lodges
  • Buffalo and zebra calving season commences
  • Birdwatching excellent

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in April

Laikipia in May

May in Laikipia is characterised by ongoing rains and lush vegetation. While game viewing can be trickier, the vibrant landscapes offer spectacular photographic opportunities with very little dust. The landscapes are a sea of green, with diverse and thriving flora.

This is an excellent time for birdwatching across the region as breeding season continues. The Ewaso Nyiro river swells impressively. Despite potential challenges, patient visitors may witness dramatic scenes of predators hunting in the thick vegetation.

  • Lush vegetation makes wildlife spotting trickier
  • Great for landscape and nature photography
  • Rutting season for wildebeest and impalas
  • Frog breeding season in Laikipia's wetlands
  • Mount Kenya views improve with clearer air

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in May

Laikipia in June

As June progresses in Laikipia, the rains give way to slightly cooler, cloudy weather. This transition marks the beginning of a long, generally dry, high season for visitors. Game viewing improves as vegetation starts to thin, and conditions are comfortable.

The Ewaso Nyiro river, still full from the rains, attracts diverse wildlife. Accommodation rates begin to rise, reflecting the start of peak season.

  • Rains subside, ushering in cooler weather
  • High season begins with increased visitors
  • Comfortable conditions game viewing

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in June

Laikipia in July

July in Laikipia brings cooler temperatures and ideal conditions for safaris. Animals concentrate around water sources on the conservancies, providing excellent game viewing opportunities.

July marks the peak of the high season, with higher accommodation rates and visitor numbers. The dry conditions make it easier to spot elusive species like leopards and black rhinos.

  • Cool weather perfect for walking and riding
  • Wildlife concentrates around water sources
  • Excellent conditions for photography tours

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in July

Laikipia in August

August in Laikipia offers mild, dry weather, perfect for safaris. The conservancies teem with wildlife, including endangered species like black rhinos and Grevy's zebras. The landscapes offer stunning vistas and excellent conditions for game drives and walking safaris. The dry conditions make it easier to spot big cats across the region. This is peak season, so expect higher visitor numbers and accommodation rates.

You might consider combining your Laikipia safari with a stay at the nearby Samburu National Reserve, known for its “northern five” species – Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, beisa oryx, gerenuk and Somali ostrich.

  • Peak season for wildlife viewing in Laikipia
  • Mild weather ideal for outdoor activities
  • Busy period requires advance bookings

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in August

Laikipia in September

As September progresses in Laikipia, the weather typically remains dry with clearing skies, signalling excellent safari conditions. Early September can be busy, but visitor numbers decrease later in the month. In the conservancies, game viewing is exceptional as animals congregate around limited water sources.

September generally offers excellent conditions for photography.

  • Hot, dry weather with good visibility
  • Quieter period for more exclusive safaris
  • Natural bush fires flush out insects and small animals for predators

Our view

Fantastic: the very best time to visit

Weather in September

Laikipia in October

October in Laikipia brings generally hot and mostly dry conditions, ideal for safaris. It's a favourite month for many visitors due to the good weather and fewer visitors. The conservancies offer excellent game viewing, with animals concentrated around water sources. The Solio Rhino Conservancy provides exceptional rhino sightings in the dry conditions.

Birdwatching is rewarding as Palearctic migrants begin to arrive. Cultural visits to Maasai communities remain a highlight. Consider combining your Laikipia safari with a trip to the nearby Samburu National Reserve for a diverse wildlife experience.

  • Warm or hot and mostly dry conditions for safaris
  • Migratory birds start arriving
  • Perfect for photography

Our view

A very good time to visit

Weather in October

Laikipia in November

November in Laikipia marks the beginning of the short rains, usually in the latter half of the month. This transition brings about dramatic changes in the landscape. Early November can still offer good game viewing before the rains intensify. Then the bush begins to green, creating beautiful scenery.

As the low season begins, accommodation rates decrease, and visitor numbers drop too, allowing for a more exclusive safari experience. Birdwatching becomes excellent with the arrival of many migratory species. November is ideal for photographers capturing the changing landscapes and dramatic skies, with low dust and clear air. Cultural visits to Maasai communities offer insights into how local life adapts to the changing seasons.

  • Short rains begin, transforming landscapes
  • Low season offers better rates and privacy
  • Excellent time for birdwatching in Laikipia
  • Lush scenery provides stunning backdrops

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in November

Laikipia in December

In a typical December, Laikipia sees the short rains finish by mid-month, leaving the landscape at its most beautiful. Clear blue skies return, heralding the start of the second peak visitor season from around 20 December onwards. The conservancies offer excellent game viewing with lush backdrops.

Christmas can occasionally be wet, but most years see perfect safari conditions by the festive season. This is an ideal time to combine wildlife viewing with cultural experiences, such as visiting Maasai communities.

  • Rains typically end, leaving landscapes lush
  • Peak tourist season begins mid-month
  • Christmas safaris popular in conservancies
  • Night sky clarity ideal for stargazing

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in December

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