Hippo Safari: Day-by-day

To look out over the Luangwa River from Nkwali’s open-fronted chalets is to feel at one with the bush. It’s a oneness that is enhanced by the mature mahogany, ebony and sausage trees whose shade shelters the little camp.

High ceilings and flagstone floors in the six stone-and-thatch chalets help to keep them cool, too, while en-suite bathrooms with open-air double showers emphasise the connection with the environment – in total privacy, of course.

The theme continues in the open-sided “chitenge”, where comfortable chairs and a small bar merge with a wooden deck over the river. Delicious meals are served here, or in the thatched dining area, close to the camp’s waterhole, while loungers around the small pool offer yet more options for relaxation – or watching the birds.

While it’s the natural world that underpins the camp’s ambience, its location, a relatively short drive from the small airport, makes it exceptionally accessible – even during the “emerald” season when most camps in the South Luangwa are closed.

"it was a very good recommendation for the south end of South Luangwa"

Harvey and JofromLewes

Arrived 13 Oct 2022, 4 nights

Nkwali’s other trump card is a private pontoon across the river into the national park, where you’ll seek out wildlife with expert guides on 4WD game drives and short walking safaris. See our full report on Nkwali

Top-notch guiding, flexibility and personal service, all wrapped up in a “close to nature” setting: this is Tena Tena. In the remote yet game-rich Nsefu Sector of the South Luangwa, just a stone’s throw from the Luangwa River, the six stylish tents of this intimate little camp are spread out within a shady mahogany grove.

To wander along sandy pathways to the camp’s split-level hub is to get a real feel for the environment – with comfortable seating and a large bar an added bonus.

The upper level is a great place to sit and chat, or to enjoy a convivial meal with fellow guests, while sunset from the lower level is a time to be savoured over a relaxed drink – if you’re not out in the bush, that is.

Central to a day at Tena Tena is to explore on a 4x4 game drive, by day or by night, or even on foot, under the expert guidance of some of the Luangwa’s most experienced guides.

"thoroughly enjoyed time here.. food first class.. saw so many wonderful things.."

Mr IB fromNorthumberland

Arrived 29 Sep 2022, 3 nights

Back in camp, whether you’re watching from an armchair on your private veranda, from your king-size bed, or even from the “loo with a view”, the river – or riverbed – is rarely out of sight, a magnet for wildlife, even during the dry season. See our full report on Tena Tena

This charismatic camp steeped in South Luangwa history has quality guiding and dining in a beautiful riverside setting. Nsefu was opened in the 1950s, the first camp in the South Luangwa and the brainchild of the renowned Norman Carr, who pioneered walking safaris here to benefit conservation and communities long before responsible tourism became a buzzword.

In the intervening years, the camp has preserved its history in its unique and unassuming charm. The bar and lounge have old black-and-white photos of Carr’s safari days, and the six small rondavels, unique in the valley, retain their original characteristics as stylish rooms that look out onto the Luangwa River.

Nsefu’s dining room was gobbled up as the river changed course, so they now offer “nomadic dining” depending on the season – under the stars, under the shade of trees, or even a private dinner for two on top of a huge dormant termite mound – far more romantic than it sounds. Wherever you eat, the food is excellent.

"a very special place.. staff wonderful.. sightings: 10 of leopard, 3 of wild dog"

Mr IB fromNorthumberland

Arrived 2 Oct 2022, 4 nights

The camp’s location, within the Nsefu Sector, features superb wildlife, and the camp itself provides some fantastic sightings in the dry season, with huge herds of buffalo and elephants meandering across the river. And pukus seem to be ever-present, quietly eating the crimson petals of the camp’s mature sausage trees. See our full report on Nsefu

Bordering the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park near Livingstone, about 3km as the crow flies from the Victoria Falls, Stanley Safari Lodge offers a peaceful base from which to explore the area. Unlike most other lodges we feature in Livingstone, it is set on a hill overlooking unspoilt bush, well away from the river, but with views of the spray from the Falls when they are in full flow.

"Very comfortable lodge in a quiet location"

Mr & Mrs CfromCornwall

Arrived 15 May 2019, 3 nights

Stanley Safari Lodge is a comfortable, but very reasonably priced lodge, set in a peaceful area away from the crowds. With its small, personal, safari-lodge style and fully inclusive rate, it perfectly suits those looking for a property close to Livingstone and the Victoria Falls, but keen to avoid the larger hotels in town. See our full report on Stanley Safari Lodge