Gham Dhao Lodge: Our full report

On the northern boundary of Botswana's Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), Gham Dhao Lodge overlooks a ...

... permanent waterhole. While it has all the benefits of being within a private 110km² concession, it is the closest property to the Matswere Gate into the CKGR, allowing guests to experience activities within the reserve as well.

Formerly called Haina Kalahari Lodge and before that, Haina Safari Lodge, Gham Dhao Lodge is also known as Evolve Back, Kalahari. Its concession is adjacent to the Deception Valley Lodge reserve, meaning the game, geography and vegetation are the same, although Gham Dhao is closer to the Matswere Gate into the CKGR.

Despite being less well-known than its neighbour, this lodge had a good reputation and, based on our last visit this was well-founded. The information below has been updated in line with information that we have received from the owners of Gham Dhao Lodge.

Spread out through the Kalahari bush, eleven tented rooms tread a fine line between privacy and accessibility. The Sky-luxe tents furthest from the main area are a fair walk (200m or so), especially in the hot sun, but we felt that the feeling of being in the bush was worth it. Guests with limited mobility, and those who simply don't fancy walking, can be transported around the lodge by golf buggy .

The tents fall into two categories: Kalahari Classic tents, including a pair that would work for a family, and new Sky-luxe tents.

Closest to the main area are the original three Kalahari Classic tents. Each is built beneath an attractive stick arch, which – although it might not offer the most effective protection from the sun – gives the tents a modern feel while helping them blend into the bush.
All the tents are built on raised platforms, with a large double bed made up with crisp white linen under a walk-in mosquito net. Each tent has an individual tea and coffee station, writing desk and hanging space, with a table and chairs set up on the wooden deck in front.
The en-suite bathroom area is to the back of the tent, with a shower cubicle to one side, a separate toilet to the other and his and hers sinks in the middle. A second door from the shower leads to an additional outdoor shower. Luxurious towels and dressing gowns are provided, along with a range of complimentary toiletries.
The family tent, which sleeps up to four people, is also near the main area. It consists of another two adjacent Classic tents linked by a shared deck, though note that this connection is not enclosed.
Six Sky-luxe tents are built under thatched canopies, their wide fronts facing a wooden deck through gauze-covered picture windows. Centre stage is a four-poster bed, flanked to one side by a sofa and coffee table, and to the other by a claw-foot bath with a view. These tents also have air conditioning over the bed, a complimentary minibar and a hairdrier, and – outside – a private skybed set up on a raised platform under the stars.

Well-marked sandy pathways wind through the bush, linking the tents to the main area. A large timber and thatch building, which is predominantly open-sided, this houses spacious dining and lounge areas, with leather sofas, coffee tables and a long communal dining table, along with a bar, a library, a basic gym and a curio shop.

Set into the deck alongside is a freeform pool surrounded by sunloungers; to the other an outdoor boma, where meals are sometimes served.

We understand that activities at Gham Dhao Lodge focus on game drives day and night, and walks with their resident San guides. As elsewhere in the Kalahari, don't expect large quantities of big game here: there isn't enough water to support them. That said, you may be lucky enough to see lion, leopard, cheetah or brown hyena within the fenced concession, which is home to a range of plains game. The lodge also offers full-day drives into the GKGR for those wanting to experience the reserve itself. Note that there may be up to nine passengers on a game-drive vehicle, so if you’re after more space, it would be as well to consider a private vehicle.

In contrast, the Bushman walks focus more on the stories, experience and knowledge of the guides than on the game in the area. Expert Africa strongly believes that walking activities in areas with dangerous big game should be led by qualified and armed guides. Despite relatively low densities of the most dangerous species on this reserve, and the amazing bush skills of the Bushmen trackers who normally accompany the walks, we would still take this view here. As such we are delighted that Gham Dhao Lodge offers an armed escort on request and we advise all travellers to make use of this service.

As with all the private properties on the northern boundary of the CKGR, the Gham Dhao reserve is fenced. While this protects the game on the concession, the fence also disrupts the natural migration of game in the area. Game viewing in the CKGR is typically at its peak in the summer, between December and April, when rich grasses attract migratory herds of zebra and wildebeest. At Gham Dhao, however, the game densities stay fairly constant within the concession, due to the fence, and as such it is usually easier to see the game in the dry winter months (around July to October), when the grasses have died back and water sources are limited.

Our view

We liked the clean, modern, tented design of Gham Dhao Lodge’s predecessor on our last visit, and understand that this has been retained. The tents looked comfortable and the lodge’s location should make for a classic Kalahari experience. Although we haven't yet had the opportunity to stay here, so cannot comment on the quality of the guiding or the authenticity of the Bushmen experience, we understand that Gham Dhao Lodge would be a good choice for those looking for a taste of the Kalahari. We tend to find that this location works best at the beginning or end of a safari in Botswana.

Tom Morris

Botswana expert

Geographics

Location: Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana
Ideal length of stay: 2-3 nights
Directions: Gham Dhao Lodge is usually accessed by light aircraft from Maun, taking around 50 minutes, although it could also be added as a part of a privately guided trip. The transfer from the airstrip to the lodge takes less than five minutes.
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board & Activities
Food quality: We have not had the opportunity to eat at Gham Dhao Lodge, but we understand that they can cater for vegetarian and other diets with advance notice. Meals served are as follows:

A continental-style breakfast before the morning activity.

A buffet-style brunch/lunch after your drive, including fruit platters, cold meats and cheeses, a selection of freshly baked bread, and hot dishes on request.

Guests take high tea before the afternoon activity, then canapés are often served at sundowners.

Dinner is a set three-course meal which is served in the camp's boma, weather permitting or at the communal dining table.
Dining style: Mixture of group dining and individual tables
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Further dining info, including room service: None
Drinks included: Soft drinks, house wine and local spirits are included at the lodge when staying on a full board and activities basis. Fine wines, champagne and imported spirits and liqueurs are not included and are charged as extras. Water from the tap is not suitable for drinking, but free bottled water is provided.

Children

Attitude towards children: Gham Dhao Lodge accepts children of all ages.
Property’s age restrictions: Guests with children aged six or under will need to book a private vehicle at extra cost.
Special activities & services: None
Equipment: The family tent sleeps up to four people.
Generally recommended for children: Gham Dhao is in the bush and unfenced, so we feel that it would not suit younger children.
Notes: Due to the danger of animals wandering through camp, children must be supervised by a parent or carer at all times.

Communications

Power supply notes: There is a backup generator in case of a power failure.
Communications: There is intermittent WiFi access in the main area only. There is no cellphone signal.
TV & radio: None
Water supply: Borehole
Water supply notes: All the tents have hot and cold running water and flush toilets. The tap water here is treated but is still highly saline.

Health & safety

Malarial protection recommended: Yes
Medical care: The nearest doctor is in Maun, a drive of at least four hours. Medical evacuation is available in case of emergencies.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: Air horns are provided in the tents for use in an emergency, there are staff nearby to assist.
Fire safety: All the tents have fire extinguishers, and staff are trained in their use.

Activities

4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Cultural excursion
Guided walking safari
Night drive
Private activities

Extras

Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: A daily laundry service is included in the rate.
Accepted payment on location: Payments on site may be made via bank transfer, with Visa or Mastercard. or in cash using US dollars, Botswana pula, euro or British pounds.