About El Karama Lodge

El Karama Lodge: Our full report

With a name meaning 'treasured possession' or 'answer to prayer' in Arabic, El Karama is a working cattle ...

... ranch and wildlife sanctuary on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River in the Laikipia region north of Mount Kenya. It was named for purely sentimental reasons by its owners, the Grant family, who still run the ranch and manage the lodge: a small, high-quality retreat and the only lodge on the ranch.

As soon as you turn off the gravel road that leads north from Nanyuki and enter El Karama Ranch, you’re aware of being in big game country: giraffe amble through the bush, impala leap across the road, and the unmistakable silhouette of elephants dot the horizon.

Set along the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River within this wilderness, El Karama offers four accommodation styles:

• The lodge’s three original thatched bandas, which are relatively small, quirky and enjoy a lovely setting near the river.
• Two spacious river cottages, which are usually booked on an exclusive-use basis for four adults or a family group of up to eight. They feature a private mess and dining area, and come with a private guide and vehicle.



• The Hobbit House partway up the valley slope is a quirky two room cottage, with extra beds on two mezzanine floors and one large, shared bathroom.



• Four suites at Nilotica Private House, usually booked in its entirety on an exclusive-use basis. Situated higher on the valley slope, Nilotica’s central areas feature a large pool, bar, dining room and lounge, outdoor sitting areas, private vehicle and guide.


The three bandas feature solid walls with mosquito-netted windows and thatch roofs. At night, canvas flaps can be rolled down over the windows or curtains pulled shut inside. They are simply decorated, each featuring comfortable twin or double beds (with just enough capacity for a third single bed or cot upon request) and an ensuite bathroom complete with flushing toilet and a rustic stone shower-bathtub. The showers have good water flow and hot water is available 24/7 via either solar power or Kuni (wood-fired) boosters. The bandas can be booked individually, or as an overflow for the exclusive-use accommodation. They enjoy access to El Karama’s main recreational area with large swimming pool, paddling pool, lawn with table tennis, communal lounge and dining area.

The two spacious river cottages also have a tranquil setting near the river. Pastel-coloured cushions sit atop the double or twin beds, rush mats line the polished concrete floors, and a writing desk stands in one corner. They have large ensuite bathrooms including a shower in cottage #1, which also has an outdoor stone bath, and both a shower and large, stone bathtub inside cottage #2. Extra beds can be added to make triples, or even quads for a family with young children, though that’s a bit more of a squeeze. Two director’s chairs on the flagstone decking surrounding the cottages are positioned to maximise views of the burbling river and acacia woodland. River cottage guests have a private ‘River Mess’ with a high thatched ceiling, bar, lounge and long dining table. On the lawn there’s extra seating in the shade and a firepit for pre-dinner drinks under the stars. River cottage guests are also welcome to use El Karama’s main pool and recreational area.

The Hobbit House is similarly decorated to the bandas and river cottages, with neutral-coloured throws, cushions, and rush matting upon the polished concrete floors, but offers something fun and quirky in terms of its structural design. Stone walls with round windows and interior natural deadwood staircases have given the house its name. The cottage’s high, thatch ceilinged, central room has two armchairs and a coffee table sitting at the foot of a large double bed, and two mezzanine levels reached by twisting staircases on either side. A single bed and comfy bean bag are set in each of these elevated spaces. To the sides are a second bedroom with twin beds, and a bathroom with stone bathtub-shower. The Hobbit House has a garden area with seating and swing chair, and share’s the lodge’s main pool and recreational area.

The newest addition to El Karama’s accommodation is Nilotica Private House, consisting of four suites with an ideal maximum capacity of 10 guests. These are spaced around a private pool and central area, with three double/twin and one two-room family suite (nearest the communal area) consisting of a double bedroom, a triple bedroom and one bathroom. The most luxurious of El Karama’s offering, the suites are spacious, with cavernous beam and thatch ceilings and large ensuite bathrooms featuring double basins and walk-in showers. Between waist high, natural stone walls and the thatched roofs are large mesh windows set in canvas to give the accommodation a lovely bush-safari feel. Through these you can watch wildlife such as giraffe and impala drink from a nearby waterhole. Dik dik and bushbuck are also regularly seen around camp.

Named for the Acacia Nilotica growing here, the Private House’s communal area features a raised wooden bar, dining area, cosy lounge and flagstone fireplace topped by an impressive buffalo skull. You’ll find some of David Grant’s stunning bronze wildlife sculptures and Lavinia Grant’s paintings decorating the walls, sideboards and coffee tables of Nilotica’s buildings, and elsewhere throughout the lodge.

This part of the property works especially well for large families and groups of friends, with a real sense of privacy and space. Meals can be enjoyed on the covered outdoor decking area overlooking the river, the lawns surrounding the pool, or before a roaring fire in the mess area. There’s also a private firepit for pre-dinner drinks. You have the freedom to make a ruckus around the pool or instead soak up the sounds of the landscape in uninterrupted peace and quiet.

El Karama’s 15,000 acre (60km²) conservancy has a very good density of wildlife and an interesting range of species. On our most recent visit, it was home to 17 lions which had newly split into two prides; numerous leopards; a cheetah that was being seen regularly; good numbers of elephant, both resident and migratory; and a wealth of plains game including interesting northern species such as the reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, and long-necked gerenuk. We were also thrilled to hear that while buffalo were seriously impacted by a previous drought and wild dogs by canine distemper, both are returning to the region with numbers on the rise.

The main activities at the lodge include immersive game walks and exploratory day and night game drives in open Land Cruisers.

Perhaps consider combining walks (or drives) with fly camping, usually done in the middle night of a three- or five-night stay at El Karama. This could involve sleeping in tensile tents, raised above the ground and strung between trees – a real hit with the young and more agile. Or you might sleep within a mosquito net pod, or opt to overnight in canvas, bell-shaped tents. Fly camping is offered on a private basis and you’ll usually arrive to enjoy sundowners followed by dinner. A separate bathroom tent is setup nearby and a ranger and guide stay with the group throughout. There is also the option of a pop-up bush camp called El Karama Wild (please get in touch with Expert Africa to find out more).

Full-day excursions to Ol Pejeta Wildlife Conservancy, about 45 minutes’ drive away, are also possible. Ol Pejeta has a wide variety of wildlife and is particularly known for its high rhino population with excellent chances of seeing both Eastern Black and Southern White rhino. The conservancy is also home to the world’s last two remaining Northern White Rhinos, and you can book to meet these famous ladies as a separate activity.

For excursions further afield, scenic flights and helicopter rides can be arranged, and previous guests have spent memorable mornings flying to Mount Kenya by chopper for breakfast before spending the morning fishing in alpine waters. Although an activity like this comes with considerable additional expense, it is often amongst the trip’s highlights.

Back at the lodge, the Bush School is a real treat for young guests but also interesting for adults who might like to join too. Activities such as insect identification, nest discoveries, making clay animals, baking in the kitchen, helping and planting in the lodge’s vegetable garden, reading animal spoor, and making animal print casts are just some of the things nature enthusiasts can get up to.

For adults there’s a 750m walking or jogging track within the lodge’s electric wire perimeter (there to deter elephants and buffalo from coming into the property). There’s a bush gym overlooking the river, equipped with exercise bicycles and an extensive range of weights for those who want to work up an appetite for El Karama’s delicious culinary offering. Yoga mats are available for use and in-house yoga sessions can be arranged with an instructor local to the area. For something more relaxing, there’s a riverside bush spa. Both yoga sessions and spa treatments are at a modest extra cost. We also thought that the beautiful property was really well suited to guests travelling with sketching or perhaps water colour materials.

It's also possible to do guided walks around El Karama’s working farm facilities to learn about dairy-herding on a Kenyan ranch – the Grants herd Sahiwal dairy cattle from Pakistan which they have successfully crossbred with German cattle for improved quality. Children especially enjoy watching the twice-daily milking sessions, and you can visit the nighttime stockades (bomas) and huge vegetable garden, where seemingly everything grows, from leeks and papayas to passion fruit, aubergines, avocados and herbs. El Karama aims to offer a model for sustainable agriculture alongside wildlife management, demonstrating how livestock and humans can live alongside wildlife with minimal conflict, and their informative guides and warm team are happy to share their experiences their curious guests. Their eco and green methodology at both the lodge and ranch is inspiring, with fresh, organic food and no chemicals used - even their swimming pools don’t use chlorine or salt, but rather a de-ionizing unit which kills bacteria and prevents algae growth.