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Peponi
Peponi
Peponi
Peponi
Peponi

About Peponi

One of the oldest lodgings on Lamu island, Peponi is a stylish, beachfront hotel in a prime spot on Shela ...

... Beach overlooking the eastern end of the Lamu Channel and the start of Lamu beach. Owned and managed by the Korschen family, it dates from the 1960s and has been successively expanded, modified and refurbished over the years.

As a beach hotel and Lamu institution, Peponi ticks every box. The wonderful location, excellent facilities and superb food make this a very reliable base for a beach holiday.

Our view

As a beach hotel and Lamu institution, Peponi ticks every box. The wonderful location, excellent facilities and superb food make this a very reliable base for a beach holiday.

Claire Scott

Claire Scott

Kenya expert

Accommodation

28 rooms

Children

Good for all ages.

Open

1 July to Easter or 30 April

Activities

Birdwatching

Birdwatching

Boat trip

Boat trip

Scuba-diving

Scuba-diving

Snorkelling

Snorkelling

Watersports

Watersports

Traveller reviews of Peponi

4 real, un-edited reviews from Expert Africa's travellers.


100%
4 reviews since August 2007
Excellent
4
Good
0
Average
0
Poor
0
Terrible
0
N&CfromPoole

Arrived 17 Jan 2024, 4 nights

"Peponi review"

"Lots of activity on offer - Carole is a very proactive host. …" Read N&C’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

SimonafromLondon

Arrived 22 Jul 2023, 3 nights

"Peponi review"

"we had a wonderful time at Peponi. It is a unique place. …" Read Simona’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

L&JfromUK

Arrived 2 Jul 2019, 4 nights

"Beautiful, relaxing, delicious"

"The location was beautiful, the room was gorgeous, the food was delicious. …" Read L&J’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Miss AfromOkehampton

Arrived 7 Mar 2019, 4 nights

"Fabulous!"

"Absolutely the perfect place to relax and unwind after hot safari days. …" Read Miss A’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

See all Peponi reviews

Holidays visiting Peponi

Just ideas, we'll always tailor-make a trip for you


Map

Peponi Beach Holiday

5 days • 1 location • 1 country
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

Discover the Swahili culture of the Kenyan coast from the remote area of Lamu during this chilled out, down-to-earth and atmospheric week on the beach.

Visiting Kenya Coast

US$2,090 - US$2,090 per person

Read more about the Peponi Beach Holiday

Peponi: Our full report

One of the oldest lodgings on Lamu island, Peponi is a stylish, beachfront hotel in a prime spot on Shela ...

... Beach overlooking the eastern end of the Lamu Channel and the start of Lamu beach. Owned and managed by the Korschen family, it dates from the 1960s and has been successively expanded, modified and refurbished over the years.

The hub of the hotel is its seafront terrace, open to the public, directly behind the flanking sea wall. If you arrive by boat from Lamu jetty you'll pull up on the beach – or occasionally at high tide by the steps – and staff will hop down to carry your bags. Behind the terrace is the bar, with an impressive range of tipples on offer; then a shady courtyard which acts as the reception area and activities information centre; and to the left of the bar the main dining room, which has its own residents-only terrace and a private dining room at the end, which you can book for romantic soirées, noisy birthday celebrations or other private gatherings.

From the bar-dining area, most of the hotel's guest rooms are ranged in rambling fashion through the delightful lush tropical gardens on the south side, to the left. To the right, on the north side of the hotel across a public path, is the “palm garden" – a large lawn dotted with mature coconut trees – backed by a row of Peponi's standard rooms.

These 8 standard rooms (#5-12, in four pairs) are comfortable and homely, on the stylish side of “simple", with wooden-shuttered windows, ceilings supported by mangrove poles, floor-to-ceiling mosquito nets, ceiling fans and plainly functional bathrooms with single wash basins, showers (hot water is all solar-powered) and flush toilets. Cinnabar Green naturally sourced toiletries are provided. Rooms #7–12 are the ones to go for here. The bedroom furnishings are basic but not cheap or rustic, with plenty of clothes storage space on wooden shelving behind curtains, rugs on the floors, and electric sockets for 24-hour battery charging. Outside, the palm garden rooms have a sea-view veranda, with recliners, separated from the garden by a low wall.

Peponi's 10 superior rooms (#17–25, and the “Top room"), 6 other standard rooms (#1, #4, #14–16 and #16a) and 5 suites (#26–30) are all located on the south side of the property. The superior rooms definitely have the edge on the standard rooms, and get snapped up more quickly. With better appointed bathrooms (though these vary considerably), their own private roof terraces (with a variety of recliners and swinging day beds), they're all very nice. Like the standard rooms, they don't have air-conditioning. The most popular superior room is probably “Top room", the large double room accessed up a staircase from the courtyard, and located directly above the dining room and terrace. With its L-shaped layout, sizable roof terrace and superb views in three directions, it's the sort of room people come back to year after year. Also very good are the thatch-roofed #21, set back near the Friday Mosque, and #17 which has French doors from its bedroom to the terrace. If you want to be close to the boats coming and going by the beach, choose #22 to #25, which have private beachfront verandas and whose roofs form a common terrace that all guests can use. Like #18 to #20, just behind them, they are close to Peponi's pool and the Baobab garden, with its venerable specimens of the bulbous-boled tree.

The 4 suites – good sized, air-conditioned apartments (#27–30) – are large, stylishly furnished and with well-equipped kitchens. They would suit larger families wanting to keep themselves to themselves or people staying for longer periods.

Do be aware that some of Peponi's rooms have terraces with unguarded drop-offs and/or balconies with inadequate railings for young children. We don't book those rooms for families with under-6s. It should also be noted that the very pleasant swimming pool does not have a lifeguard or depth markings.

Peponi is a very popular spot for a meal, a sundowner or a drink at any time and is always humming with people passing through. It's worth knowing that there can be occasions when the nicest places to hang out – well-positioned dining tables, perfect sundowner perches by the wall – can be at a premium. Staff always do their best to ensure room guests have priority over casual visitors, but there can be quite a house party feel at times, especially when regular guests are entertaining friends who are staying elsewhere. Such crowding can sometimes put a strain on guests and staff alike, especially as being so well integrated into the life of Lamu, the hotel tends to give all-comers a strong sense of entitlement.

Peponi is in a perfect location if you want to participate in activities, with Lamu's 12km beach, the ocean and the rest of the Lamu archipelago on one side, the village of Shela immediately behind the hotel, and Lamu town a 15-minute boat ride (or 45-minute creek shore walk) away. You can do entirely your own thing – safely stroll along the beach at dawn, or pop into the back streets of Shela at any time. Or you can ask for a hotel guide to accompany you to Lamu Town.

Shela has a number of small shops and café-restaurants (the hotel has a map and leaflet). A guided visit to Lamu town costs around US$15 for 3 hours plus your boat fare each way (US$2–20 depending on whether you share a public vessel or charter a boat to yourself).

As well as water-skiing (US$160/hour), windsurfing lessons (US$20/hour) and sailing in a Laser or a Mirror (US$15–20/hour), sea-based excursions that can be arranged at Peponi include the following, all for four people:

  • 1½ hour sunset dhow cruise (US$40);
  • 3-hour sailing trip to Takwa ruins on Manda, with birdwatching (US$50);
  • Half-day speedboat trip around Lamu island (US$130);
  • Half-day rod and line fishing (US$70);
  • Half-day snorkelling/dolphin watching at Kinyika rock or Manda Toto (US$185);
  • Full-day historical visit to Pate island by speedboat (US$240);
The Korschen family who own Peponi have been key to setting up measures to protect the local sea turtles from fishing boats, and their nests from being dug up. They pay a finder's fee to fishermen who rescue netted turtles and they encourage guests to stay up late to watch hundreds of baby turtles hatching at the nesting sites (always at night).

Geographics

Location
Kenya Coast, Kenya
Ideal length of stay
3 nights or more
Directions
Peponi is 15 minutes by boat from Lamu town or Lamu airport jetty.
Accessible by
Fly-and-Transfer

Food & drink

Usual board basis
Bed & Breakfast
Food quality
Peponi has an excellent reputation for its food: Ray Cournede, Carol Korschen's nephew and reputedly one of Kenya's best chefs, still visits frequently to oversee the kitchen, though he no longer works at Peponi full time.

Breakfast is served from 6.45am to 10am (and you can order morning tea or coffee in your room), lunch from noon to 3pm and dinner from 7pm to 9.30pm. Special diets are no problem at all. They keep almond milk and soya milk and can cater to most requirements if you request when booking.

Breakfast comes with a wide range of options including, if you order the night before, special Swahili breads and cakes. There's an array of delicious homemade marmalades for your toast – apple, tomato and passion fruit, mango and ginger, tomato and lime and orange and carrot – and expertly prepared cooked breakfasts, pancakes, waffles… name it.

For lunch you can order from a tempting list of seafood, continental and grilled snacks, salads and mains.

Dinner is also à la carte, and goes across the spectrum, from sushi and sashimi to a tuna ceviche salad, pastas and risottos, shellfish from oysters to lime and chilli crab, burgers, Thai chicken curry, and Swahili dishes from whole reef fish to mkate wa mayai (“egg bread" with sides). Everything is well-prepared and efficiently served.

For lunch you can order from a tempting list of seafood, continental and grilled snacks and mains. I had a very tasty dark rye Panini with a nutty, peppered fish fillet.

Dinner is also à la carte, and goes across the spectrum, from sushi and sashimi to a tuna ceviche salad, pastas and risottos, shellfish from oysters to lime and chilli crab, burgers, Thai chicken curry, and Swahili dishes from whole reef fish to mkate wa mayai (“egg bread" with sides). Everything is well-prepared and efficiently served.
Dining style
Individual Tables
Dining locations
Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Further dining info, including room service
You can enjoy the excellent output of Peponi’s kitchen in a wide variety of locations – by the pool, on your balcony, in the main dining room or the private dining area. “Eat anything, anywhere!" we were told.
Drinks included
Drinks are not included but are reasonably priced. Beers are around US$5, a glass of house wine about US$7 and cocktails around U$10.

Children

Attitude towards children
Children are welcome.
Property’s age restrictions
None.
Special activities & services
Early suppers and child menus are available. If parents want to eat in peace, women are available from housekeeping to act as babysitters.
Equipment
Highchairs, baby cots and buckets and spades are all available. It’s possible to add extra beds to some of the rooms.
Generally recommended for children
Generations of upcountry-based children have come on holiday to Peponi, though it does retain an adult mood that’s more ideally suited to couples and older teens. Do be aware, as mentioned in the main text above, that the hotel is missing some safety features (pool depth markings and sufficient guard rails around some terraces and balconies) that modern hotels would usually have.

Communications

Power supply notes
Peponi is on the island’s mains grid and has an 80 kva backup generator. All the socket variations are available in each room, where charging can be done 24/7. All the superior rooms have hair-driers, while the standard rooms have hair driers on request.
Communications
There are currently two Wi-fi networks. Safaricom mobile phone coverage is generally fine, but Airtel is poor. The use of mobiles and laptops is not allowed in the dining room. On a recent visit in 2019 were advised that fibre connectivity was being installed imminently which would make the Wi-Fi connection much more reliable.
TV & radio
There is no guest TV at the hotel, but somewhere in Shela village will always have a TV available when a major match or other sporting event is on.
Water supply
Borehole
Water supply notes
Peponi relies on its own three wells. Water is desalinated, carbon-filtered and subjected to UV filtration. Flasks are provided in every room and you can get as many refills as you want of “Peponi water".

Health & safety

Malarial protection recommended
Yes
Medical care
There are first-aid kits and a defibrillator and staff are regularly trained and updated. There is a nurse on-call, and doctors from Lamu Hospital and the children’s hospital in town are all available if necessary. There is space for a helicopter to land, but in 30 years only two guests have ever had to be evacuated.
Dangerous animals
Low Risk
Security measures
Askaris patrol the hotel day and night.
Fire safety
There are fire extinguishers in every room.

Activities

  • Birdwatching

    Birdwatching

  • Boat trip

    Boat trip

  • Scuba-diving

    Scuba-diving

  • Snorkelling

    Snorkelling

  • Watersports

    Watersports

Extras

Disabled access
On Request
Laundry facilities
Laundry is available at an extra charge. It is hand- and/or machine washed, line-dried and ironed.
Money
All rooms have safes. Foreign exchange services are available.
Accepted payment on location
Most currencies (US dollars, pounds sterling, Euros and Kenyan shillings) can be accepted for cash payments (foreign currencies are accepted at the hotel’s daily exchange rate against the Kenyan shilling). There’s no surcharge for payment by Amex, Visa or MasterCard, unless it’s for a payment that the hotel has to pay for on your behalf – such as an excursion with another operator – in which case the surcharge is 6%.

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Peponi's location

Look closer at the environment and surroundings of Peponi.


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When to go to Kenya Coast

Our month by month guide: What it's like to visit Peponi in Kenya Coast


Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Kenya in January

Clear, hot days and warm nights make this high season a popular time for safaris and it’s also good for diving and snorkelling as water clarity is excellent and gets better as the dry season progresses. Most lodges and tented camps treat January after the New Year week is over, as mid-season, making it a good compromise in terms of value for money with reasonably reliable, dry weather and some greenery left in the landscape.

Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in January, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the weather and seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.

  • On average, January is the second driest month of the year
  • Elephants dig waterholes in the dry riverbed in the Samburu reserve.
  • Wildebeest and many antelope have their calving season, to February.
  • Migrant birds are seen in huge numbers, especially in the Rift Valley.
  • Sea water clarity around the coral reefs generally good.

Our view

Fantastic: the very best time to visit

Weather in January

Kenya in February

With the short dry season well established, the grass grazed down and wildlife gathering close to water points, this is still a good time for a safari. Good water clarity in the Indian Ocean's coastal waters makes for excellent diving and snorkelling conditions.

Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in February, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the weather and seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.

  • On average, February is the driest month of the year.
  • It’s sometimes possible to swim with whale sharks at Diani Beach.
  • Migrant birds are still seen everywhere, especially near water.
  • This is usually peak calving season for wildebeest and many antelopes.
  • This month is often the hottest of the year, especially on the coast.

Our view

A very good time to visit

Weather in February

Kenya in March

Hot, increasingly humid weather – with good diving and snorkelling conditions at the start of the month – gives way to rains and lower accommodation costs. Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in March, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and predicting the seasons since the beginning of this century has been difficult.

March is the month when – traditionally – intensely hot conditions build up until a cloudburst finally happens at the end of the month or in early April, to relieve the humidity. As ever, regional variations across the country can greatly impact on visitors' experiences.

  • Sea-water clarity is best for diving before the long rains start.
  • Visitor numbers are low, though the Easter holidays can be busier.
  • Night skies can be scintillatingly clear in early March.
  • Cropped down savannah grasses can make it easier to see the wildlife.
  • Temperartures climb high, especially at lower elevations.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in March

Kenya in April

April sees the full onset of the southeast monsoon wind or kusi, which heralds the long rains. Temperatures drop soon after the rains are established and you’ll often have facilities largely to yourself in this more affordable low season, sometimes known as the "green season". The bush quickly springs to life, with greenery sprouting almost before your eyes. While you're likely to get a fair number of heavy showers, the breaks in the rain can yield sparklingly clear conditions.

With the dust settled and bright sun piercing the clouds, conditions can be sublime for photography, especially first thing in the morning or in the late afternoon with another storm brewing. You may be lucky, or you may find conditions very wet and muddy.

  • A wet month, the coast often gets more than 300mm (12in) of rain.
  • Sunny spells can provide great light for photography.
  • Buffalo and zebra calving season often happens in this month.
  • Baby crocodiles hatch, for example on Central Island in Lake Turkana.
  • Palearctic migrant birds gather to fly north to breeding grounds.

Our view

A time to avoid if possible

Weather in April

Kenya in May

While game viewing can be trickier as vegetation runs riot, between the cloudbursts the colours and light are great for photography at this time of year. Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in May, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and while it's reasonable to expect heavy rains in many parts during this month, especially on the coast, the rains don't always come evenly or in some areas come at all.

In an El Niño year, the so-called long rains that normally are established across much of the country by May can be meagre, to the despair of farmers. On the other hand in a La Niña year, the long rains can bring floods. On the coast, the monsoon winds make the climate much more predictable, with heavy rains common throughout this month.

  • Frogs breed in the ponds in the Arabuko Sokoke Forest near Watamu.
  • Wildebeest, impala and other grazers are in rut (the breeding season).
  • Kilimanjaro looks its best as heavy rain falls as snow on the summit.
  • There's a sharp peek of rainfall on the coast with many rainy days.
  • Accommodation prices are uniformly low, while some camps close.

Our view

A time to avoid if possible

Weather in May

Kenya in June

The rains give way to cloudy, cooler weather, often making for comfortable conditions by the end of the month, especially in the highlands. Starting from mid-June or the beginning of July and running until the end of October, this is the high season, and accordingly has higher accommodation rates and – at least until early September – higher numbers of visitors.

While the early part of June can often be rainy on the coast, it can be a great time to go on safari, with fresh greenery, many young animals and good photographic conditions with clear air.

  • The Taru Desert, inland from the coast, is carpeted with flowers.
  • The Lake Turkana Cultural Festival is held in Loiyangalani.
  • Madaraka Day (commemorating self rule) is 1 June.
  • The annual Lewa marathon runs a course through the wildlife.
  • The Diani Rules "sports" event rips up the rulebook at Diani Beach.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in June

Kenya in July

Kenya’s “winter" season sets in (winter is a misnomer but locals feel the change), and the highlands can be rather grey. Skies are often cloudy and the days can be surprisingly cool, with an average daytime high in many highland safari areas of 15-20°C and night-time temperatures dropping below 10°C in Nairobi and the highlands. Lower parts of the country and the coast are usually warm and dry, typically reaching highs of around 25°C with lows in the high teens.

As this is the start of the high season, coinciding with the usual arrival of the wildebeest migration in the Maasai Mara, July is a busy month. Ask your Expert Africa specialist to advise on how to avoid the crowds, which is not that difficult to do.

  • The wildebeest migration usually reaches the Maasai Mara in July.
  • Simbi Lake (Kisumu) and Crater Lake (Naivasha) can attract flamingoes.
  • Watersports start to pick up and some surfing is possible at Malindi.
  • Afternoon thunderstorms are a common feature in the Maasai Mara.
  • The sea can be choppy along the coast, making diving difficult.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in July

Kenya in August

The Great Migration fills the plains of the Maasai Mara, and school’s out, so the park roads are full of tourists – ask your Expert Africa specialist for advice on crowd avoidance tactics. Choose a private conservancy rather than a public national park or national reserve for quieter conditions.

Like July, August is generally mild and relatively dry in the safari areas, but it can be very chilly in the highlands, even in the middle of the day, and hail occasionally falls above altitudes of around 2,400m (8,000ft). Nairobi can be disappointingly overcast, with low cloud.

  • Apart from Christmas holidays, this is the busiest month of the year.
  • Late August sees peak wildebeest drama at the Mara River crossings.
  • Coastal winds are good for kite- and wind-surfing.
  • Few mosquitoes are around at this generally dry time of year.
  • The annual Camel Derby takes place in the Samburu capital, Maralal.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in August

Kenya in September

The skies clearing of cloud signals the start of hot, dry weather with little chance of rain – and, after the first few days of the month, far fewer visitors – making the latter part of September a good time for a quieter safari. While early September is often good for dramatic migration crossings along the Mara River, you might consider deliberately postponing your trip until later in the month, when the migration can still be very impressive and visitor numbers fewer.

If tourist surges are somewhat predictable, however, the patterns of the wildebeest migration are more volatile, and like all of Expert Africa's climate and weather assessments, they are based on accumulated years of experience rather than guaranteed certainty.

  • This is still high season, with prices to match.
  • Many river crossings take place on the Mara river in both directions.
  • Natural bush fires flush out insects and small animals for predators.
  • The Rift Valley Music Festival takes place by Lake Naivasha.
  • With school holidays over by early September, late-month is quieter.

Our view

Fantastic: the very best time to visit

Weather in September

Kenya in October

Still hot, mostly dry and not too busy, this is many people’s preferred month for a safari, and it’s also good for diving and snorkelling. The wildebeest and zebra herds of the great migration are often still to be seen, though in dwindling numbers. The swamps of Amboseli attract thirsty wildlife including large herds of elephants.

While we wouldn't expect much rain across most of the country this month, the climate has become so unpredictable that you can never say never, and the possibiity of the short rains – usually associated with November to mid-December, starting early, can't be discounted.

  • This month sees the tail end of the great migration in the Mara.
  • Palearctic migrant birds start to arrive, staying until March.
  • Turtle nests hatch at Watamu, until November.
  • Amboseli elephants focus on the swamps for their daily water.
  • The Indian Ocean monsoon winds turn from southeast to northeast.

Our view

A very good time to visit

Weather in October

Kenya in November

The northeast monsoon wind or kaskazi heralds the start of the “short rains", usually some time in the second half of the month. From November to mid-December, this is the low season, and accordingly has lower accommodation rates and lower visitor numbers. Across most of the country you can expect warm, somewhat cloudy weather, with occasional heavy showers and localised flooding.

Expert Africa bases its description of the climate in November, like the other months of the year, on the records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable: some years the short rains don't come at all, or don't reach every part of the country. In an El Niño year, the November short rains can be very heavy, but in a La Niña year, they can fail completely.

  • Swimming with dolphins in Lamu can be done from now until April.
  • Birders gather at Ngulia in Tsavo West to ring Palearctic migrants.
  • The Lamu Cultural Festival takes over the town and Lamu Creek.
  • Agricultural shows often take place regional market towns.
  • This is low season, so camps can be great value, with special offers.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in November

Kenya in December

In a typical December, the rains usually finish by middle of the month, leaving the landscape looking its best, under clear blue skies, and heralding the start of the second peak tourist season from around 20 December to the first week of January. Our assessment of the likely weather in December, like the other months of the year, is based on climate records, and it's fair to say that the seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.

Christmas can sometimes be wet, but most years the rains have finished a week or two earlier, with the festive season ushering in the perfect combination of clear skies and sunshine by day and starry nights.

  • Christmas and New Year are busy, with the lodges and camps full.
  • Rates are highest after 24 Dec, with supplements on public holidays.
  • Republic Day and Independence day are celebrated on 12 December.
  • Good kite- and wind-surfing restarts, with strong northeasterly winds.
  • Mango season begins, providing excitement for primates and elephants.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in December

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