About Serian
Perched quite high above the Mara River, where it cuts a broad valley along the western border of the Mara ...
... North Conservancy, Serian Camp is a small independent tented camp, owned by the established safari guide Alex Walker. It has two sister 'Serian' camps in the Mara ecosystem – one directly across the river and one inside the Maasai Mara National Reserve – and there are others in the Serengeti in Tanzania.
Although Serian is a small camp, its physical extent and elevated position give it the air of a grander set-up without it ever feeling pretentious. Both the guest tents and the beautiful central area with its river views are a delight. We thought the hospitality here was exceptional and the private driver-guiding is a real bonus – the costs of which admittedly are built into the relatively high rates. There is a bit of a drive out of the river valley into the better wildlife areas of Mara North.
Our view
Although Serian is a small camp, its physical extent and elevated position give it the air of a grander set-up without it ever feeling pretentious. Both the guest tents and the beautiful central area with its river views are a delight. We thought the hospitality here was exceptional and the private driver-guiding is a real bonus – the costs of which admittedly are built into the relatively high rates. There is a bit of a drive out of the river valley into the better wildlife areas of Mara North.
Accommodation
6 tents
Children
Best for 8+
Open
All year
Activities
4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Cultural excursion
Guided walking safari
Hot air ballooning
Night drive
Private activities
Traveller reviews of Serian
16 real, un-edited reviews from Expert Africa's travellers.
Arrived 21 Dec 2024, 3 nights
"Serian review"
Overall rating: Excellent
Arrived 7 Oct 2024, 3 nights
"Serian review"
Overall rating: Excellent
Arrived 22 Feb 2024, 3 nights
"Serian review"
Overall rating: Good
Arrived 8 Aug 2023, 2 nights
"Serian review"
Overall rating: Excellent
Arrived 30 Jul 2023, 3 nights
"Serian, a wildlife lovers dream"
Overall rating: Excellent
Arrived 21 Sep 2022, 2 nights
"Serian review"
Overall rating: Excellent
Arrived 4 Dec 2019, 5 nights
"George and Francis - Maasai Friends"
Overall rating: Excellent
Arrived 3 Feb 2019, 6 nights
"Excellent safari at Serian Camp"
Overall rating: Excellent
Arrived 29 Jul 2018, 4 nights
"Wonderful home in the bush"
Overall rating: Excellent
Arrived 24 Sep 2017, 2 nights
"Exceptional - The Very Best "
Overall rating: Excellent























Expert Africa's gallery
When we travel we take lots of photos ourselves to give you a real and un-edited view of the safaris. See our 23 pictures of Serian to get the candid view.
View gallerySafaris visiting Serian
Just ideas, we'll always tailor-make a trip for you


De Brazza Monkey Fly-in Safari
9 days • 3 locations • 1 country
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT
Enjoy a range of activities in the remote wilderness of northern Kenya before exploring the wildlife-rich plains of the Mara ecosystem. Private vehicles and guides heighten the personalisation of this highly immersive safari.
Visiting Northern Kenya, Mara Conservancies and 1 other area
US$13,540 - US$16,320 per person
Serian: Our full report
Perched quite high above the Mara River, where it cuts a broad valley along the western border of the Mara ...
... North Conservancy, Serian Camp is a small independent tented camp, owned by the established safari guide Alex Walker. It has two sister 'Serian' camps in the Mara ecosystem – one directly across the river and one inside the Maasai Mara National Reserve – and there are others in the Serengeti in Tanzania.
Serian is approached from the 'main' dirt road that cuts through the Mara North Conservancy. You drive across open plains, and then start to descend towards the river, where a bushier, rocky aspect takes over the landscape, before rolling into the camp's expansive setting on the steep riverbank.
Many visitors combine a stay at Serian with a stay at its sister camp Nkorombo Serian in the Maasai Mara National Reserve 90 minutes drive to the south. We highly recommend you read the reports on all the camps to get a good flavour of the group's style.
The central areas of Serian feature a cosy lounge and dining area, densely thatched with drooping Kilgoris grass, and furnished with a comfy clutter of cushion-piled sofas. To the front, a very large decked area under the trees is where breakfast and lunch are always served – and dinner too on warm evenings. There are views down across the river from here – some distance down the hillside – and across towards Serian's 'other half' – Ngare Serian, on the west bank of the Mara, accessed by a suspension footbridge, and Serian's own 16km² private conservancy where bush walks are frequently conducted. Behind the lounge and mess tent, there's also a small shop tent, selling local Maasai crafts and souvenirs.
The paths to the six guest tents are somewhat rocky and irregular – no problem for many guests, but slightly tricky to negotiate for older visitors, who will be glad of the arm of an askari – who always accompany guests as they move around the unfenced camp after dark.
The guest tents at Serian are large and handsome, set on polished, creamy-coloured cement plinths or wooden platforms, overlooking the river. The beds are Victorian-style four-poster, iron-framed creations, with distressed paint. Sofas, chaise longues, writing tables, and directors' chairs are set around each tent, to be pulled in and out
The tent bathrooms at Serian have always featured an unusual setup: they are separate from the tent itself, accessed by a short walkway or a flight of steps. For some guests this is a bonus, offering more privacy, but for others, grabbing a flashlight in the middle of the night to go out to the loo might seem inconvenient. So in 2014, Serian added small en-suite bathrooms to their guest tents, while leaving the separate bush-bathroom facilities in place, including the wonderful 'baths with a view'.
If you're a family or larger group, the family unit is ideal, incorporating two tents and two bathrooms and set on a large deck with a shaded lounge and dining area between the two tents. The camp are very happy for families to dine down here in private if they wish.
In terms of activities, the three Serian camps in the Mara share a team of fourteen driver/guides, all at bronze level or above. A special feature here is having a private driver/guide and vehicle for every party of guests. In most camps, exclusive vehicle and guide use can be pre-booked, but is an extra cost. At Serian, you'll be looked after by the same main driver/guide throughout your stay. Having a private vehicle and guide means you can do exactly what you want and and it's particularly worthwhile when you get to know each other.
Serian's game drives usually take place in the large and varied Mara North Conservancy, but you also have the option of doing all-day drives into the Maasai Mara National Reserve (one all-day visit is usually included for every three-night stay). Most visitors elect to do this during the wildebeest migration season between July and October – but take the advice of your guides on when it's worthwhile: for much of the year, the wildlife concentrations in the conservancy are as good as, or better than inside the reserve.
The other main activity at Serian is guided bush walks in Serian's private, 16km² concession on the west bank of the Mara. On these short walks (available for all ages), your armed escorts will be equipped with traditional weapons. For longer walks, and walks in the Mara North Conservancy, guns are carried. The guides at Serian can also take guests out on some fabulous night drives. On a previous visit we watched lionesses hunt in the dark, as well as getting a rare sighting of an aardwolf and an even rarer sighting of an aardvark!
An optional extra is a night in The Nest Treehouse: a comfortable yet rustic elevated fly camp a short walk north of camp. Subject to availability, a night here is included at no extra charge if requested, and you don't have to give up your tent at Serian. It is also possible to head up here just for lunch or dinner, which adds some really nice variety to your stay. Given that there is no additional cost for this stay, it is definitely worth booking time here in advance during high season, as it is very popular.
Geographics
- Location
- Maasai Mara Conservancies, Kenya
- Ideal length of stay
- 3–4 nights
- Directions
- Mara North airstrip is about a one-hour slow game drive from Serian.
- Accessible by
- Fly-and-Transfer
Food & drink
- Usual board basis
- Full Board & Activities
- Food quality
- We last visited Serian in March 2018, but didn’t stay long enough to try the food. Given what we have experienced during previous stays, we know that creative, tasty and copious meals are a main feature of a stay at Serian, and the kitchen makes great use of produce from their vegetable, salad and herb garden – though meat and fish are usually flown in from Nairobi. As always, it would be good to see at least some meat coming from the local community, but the quality is rarely high enough. Full breakfasts are served in the morning, while lunch is a buffet of chilled soup, salads, cold meat, pastas and quiches. The three-course dinners tend to be slightly more formal.
- Dining style
- Group Meals
- Dining locations
- Indoor and Outdoor Dining
- Further dining info, including room service
- On request
- Drinks included
- All drinks are included except for Champagne and premium wines and spirits.
Special interests
- Photography holidays
- Set high above the Mara River, Serian offers spectacular views. Private vehicles and guides offer complete flexibility and bush walks are available for those hoping to photograph their surroundings from a new perspective.
- See ideas for Photography holidays in Kenya
- Walking safaris
- Situated in the wildlife-rich Maasai Mara ecosystem, Serian offers ample opportunities for walking safaris both in their concession and in the larger Mara North Conservancy. Wildlife is varied and plentiful, and top guiding provides great encounters.
- See ideas for Walking safaris in Kenya
Children
- Attitude towards children
- Serian will happily accommodate families, with the family tent being a convenient option.
- Property’s age restrictions
- There is no minimum age. Under-fives stay free of charge
- Special activities & services
- Children can learn bush skills like how to start a fire and fire a bow and arrow.
- Equipment
- Cots and highchairs can be obtained if requested in advance.
- Generally recommended for children
- Serian is an excellent choice for more adventurous families.
Our travellers’ wildlife sightings from Serian
Since mid-2018, many of our travellers who stayed at Serian have kindly recorded their wildlife sightings and shared them with us. The results are below. Click an animal to see more, and here to see more on our methodology.

100% success

100% success

100% success

100% success

100% success

100% success

100% success

100% success

89% success

88% success

57% success

0% success

0% success

0% success

0% success

0% success
Communications
- Power supply notes
- Power is on 24-hours a day and guests can charge batteries in their rooms.
- Communications
- There is no general guest Wi-fi. The camp does have Internet access in case of urgent need. There is patchy mobile phone reception – you may need to head out of camp towards the road for a better signal.
- TV & radio
- There's no TV for guest use.
- Water supply
- Other
- Water supply notes
- Serian's main water supply comes from the Mara River, and they have their own spring. The water is pumped to settling tanks and drinking water is then filtered and bottled for guests' use.
Sustainability

Investing in conservation initiatives
When the team at Alex Walker’s Serian Camp first took over, the landscape was disheartening – the wildlife was scarce and cattle had destroyed the vegetation. Serian’s commitment to rehabilitating the ecosystem lies in consistent efforts to stop poaching activity in the area. The camp has employed and trained 4 rangers who patrol the area, ensuring guests and wildlife are protected. Over the years, herds of elephants and prides of lions have returned to the valleys. With support from Mara North Conservancy poaching activities have decreased and poachers have been arrested.
Serian Camp is also supporting the Mara Predator Project. They assist researchers with vehicles and information about the lion population in the area.
Moreover, conservation practices were extended to benefit more the local community. Therefore, in addition to paying leasing fees for the land the resort is built on, an extra fee per bed night is contributing to the development of local villages. The resort also employs and trains local women as Lady Guides, promoting gender equality and women empowerment.
See more great sustainability projects in Kenya
Health & safety
- Malarial protection recommended
- Yes
- Medical care
- Staff and managers have had some first aid training. There is a basic clinic at Mara Rianta, about half an hour's driver from camp.
- Dangerous animals
- High Risk
- Security measures
- Maasai askaris escort guests around camp after dark.
- Fire safety
- All the tents have fire extinguishers.
Activities
4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Cultural excursion
Guided walking safari
Hot air ballooning
Night drive
Private activities
Extras
- Disabled access
- On Request
- Laundry facilities
- Laundry service is included, and clothes are hand-washed and line-dried. For cultural reasons, no underwear can be accepted.
- Money
- There is a safe in the office for guests' use. The camp doesn't offer foreign exchange.
- Accepted payment on location
- Credit cards are not accepted. Only cash (Kenya shillings, US dollars, pounds sterling or Euros) are accepted in payment for any extras, and the crafts and curios shop at the main camp only accepts cash.
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Serian's location
Look closer at the environment and surroundings of Serian.
Excursions from Serian
Optional extra day-trips and excursions possible whilst you're staying at Serian. Talk to us: these are usually best arranged before you go.

Balloon flight over the Mara
3 hours in total - morning only
With the sun rising over the Loita Hills, you scramble into the balloon basket for the start of a once-in-a-lifetime experience. You’re about to go drifting with the breeze above the trees and plains of one of the world’s greatest wildlife regions.
More about Balloon Safari
Safari in Maasai Mara National Reserve
All day from sunrise to sunset
If you're not staying in the Maasai Mara National Reserve itself, you're likely to be staying in one of the outstandingly wildlife-rich Maasai-owned private conservancies just outside the reserve boundary. A full-day game drive in the reserve gives you the chance to visit the Mara River and see some of the reserve's fabled wildlife locations.
More about Maasai Mara SafariOther lodges in Maasai Mara Conservancies
Alternative places to stay in this same area.

Kicheche Bush Camp
Kicheche Bush Camp is a smart and intimate tented camp with a relaxed atmosphere and the perfect base in the Mara for keen photographers.

Kicheche Mara
Kicheche Mara Camp has just ten tents and a rustic and comfortable feel. It is set by a stream in a pretty area of the Mara ecosystem's Mara North Conservancy.

Kicheche Valley
Kicheche Valley is a boutique tented camp in a wooded district of the Mara ecosystem's Naboisho Conservancy, with plenty of wildlife in the area.

Naboisho Camp
Naboisho Camp is one of the most luxurious of the handful of camps in the Naboisho Conservancy. It offers day and night game drives, game walks and full creature comforts in the bush.

Offbeat Mara
Offbeat Mara is a small traditional camp that appeals to safari traditionalists, located in one of the Maasai Mara’s quiet conservancies.

Encounter Mara
Encounter Mara is located in the private Naboisho Conservancy – a game-rich area of the Mara ecosystem – and offers a contemporary take on the traditional, low-impact luxury safari camp.

Elephant Pepper Camp
Elephant Pepper Camp is a small 10-tent bush camp, put together in the traditional "campaign" style, and including a large honeymoon/family tent.

Mara Plains Camp
Mara Plains is one of the very best camps in the Mara ecosystem. Located in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy, just outside the Mara reserve, it has access to three wildlife-viewing areas.

Basecamp Eagle View
Basecamp Eagle View is a community-focused safari camp in the Naboisho Conservancy, with a strong emphasis on responsible tourism and a spectacular location.

Kicheche Fly Camp
Kicheche Walking Wilderness Fly Camp is a temporaray dome tent camp set up for participants in Kicheche's two-day walking safari between Kicheche Valley and Kicheche Bush Camp.

Hemingways Ol Seki
Magnificently located tented lodge on a bluff looking south across the Naboisho Conservancy toward the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

Saruni Wild
Saruni Wild is a rustic and traditional safari camp in the Lemek Conservancy, with just three tents and limited electricity.

Porini Lion Camp
Porini Lion Camp is a pioneering, community focused eco-camp, with excellent guides and game viewing, in the predator-rich, Olare Motorogi Conservancy.

Offbeat Ndoto
Small and intimate, Offbeat Mara is set in a valley above the (often dry) Olare Orok River within the Mara North Conservancy.

Basecamp Leopard Hill
With six beautiful tents, Basecamp Leopard Hill is a smart safari camp in the Naboisho Conservancy in the Maasai Mara ecosystem.

Porini Mara Camp
Porini Mara Camp is a small, pioneering eco-camp in the first private conservancy in the Mara region, with comfortable accommodation and a range of activities.

Ngare Serian
The luxurious Ngare Serian and its sister camp Serian face each other across the Mara River on the western side of the Mara North Conservancy

Karen Blixen Camp
Karen Blixen Camp sits on a meander of the Mara River in the Mara North Conservancy, just beyond the northern boundary of the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

Cottars 1920s Camp
Cottar's 1920s Camp is a classic, luxury tented camp with a 1920s safari theme, located in its own conservancy on the southeast border of the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

Leleshwa
Leleshwa was a delightful, boutique safari camp on the picturesque banks of a tributary of the Talek, with an extensive, little visited game area on its doorstep.

Saruni Mara
Saruni Mara is a luxurious permanent lodge, on the remote northern edge of the Mara North Conservancy, with stunning views, good guiding and very private and comfortable rooms.

Mahali Mzuri
Mahali Mzuri is a strikingly modern tented camp in the Virgin Limited Edition group, in a remote part of the Mara ecosytem's Olare Motorogi Conservancy. It has lovely views and all the luxuries of a five-star hotel.

Mara Nyika
Mara Nyika is one of the newer additions to the Naboisho Conservancy and offers a luxurious and exclusive safari.

Basecamp Wilderness
Basecamp Wilderness Camp is a simple, traditional tented camp, set in a remote valley in the Naboisho Conservancy in the Mara ecoystem.

Mara Bushtops
Mara Bushtops is a luxury safari hotel on a private concession, outside the Maasai Mara National Reserve, with the emphasis on comfort, relaxation and good food and wine.

Mara Toto Tree Camp
Mara Toto Tree Camp is located on a wooded bend of the Ntiakatek River, 1km south (as the pied crow flies) from its sister camp, Mara Plains. It's the offspring of the original "Mara Toto" which was swept away in floods.

Cottars Private House
Cottar's Private House is one of the few truly luxurious, modern private houses in the Mara ecosystem, spoiling its guests with first-rate staff, a swimming pool and wonderful views.

Basecamp Mara Houses
Basecamp Mara Houses consists of three private houses located in the northernmost part of the Mara North Conservancy.

Entumoto
Entumoto is a high-end tented camp, with a swimming pool, situated in a very pretty location on the east side of the Maasai Mara ecosystem.
When to go to Maasai Mara Conservancies
Our month by month guide: What it's like to visit Serian in Maasai Mara Conservancies
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Kenya in January
Clear, hot days and warm nights make this high season a popular time for safaris and it’s also good for diving and snorkelling as water clarity is excellent and gets better as the dry season progresses. Most lodges and tented camps treat January after the New Year week is over, as mid-season, making it a good compromise in terms of value for money with reasonably reliable, dry weather and some greenery left in the landscape.
Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in January, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the weather and seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.
- On average, January is the second driest month of the year
- Elephants dig waterholes in the dry riverbed in the Samburu reserve.
- Wildebeest and many antelope have their calving season, to February.
- Migrant birds are seen in huge numbers, especially in the Rift Valley.
- Sea water clarity around the coral reefs generally good.
Our view
Fantastic: the very best time to visit
Weather in January
Kenya in February
With the short dry season well established, the grass grazed down and wildlife gathering close to water points, this is still a good time for a safari. Good water clarity in the Indian Ocean's coastal waters makes for excellent diving and snorkelling conditions.
Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in February, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the weather and seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.
- On average, February is the driest month of the year.
- It’s sometimes possible to swim with whale sharks at Diani Beach.
- Migrant birds are still seen everywhere, especially near water.
- This is usually peak calving season for wildebeest and many antelopes.
- This month is often the hottest of the year, especially on the coast.
Our view
A very good time to visit
Weather in February
Kenya in March
Hot, increasingly humid weather – with good diving and snorkelling conditions at the start of the month – gives way to rains and lower accommodation costs. Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in March, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and predicting the seasons since the beginning of this century has been difficult.
March is the month when – traditionally – intensely hot conditions build up until a cloudburst finally happens at the end of the month or in early April, to relieve the humidity. As ever, regional variations across the country can greatly impact on visitors' experiences.
- Sea-water clarity is best for diving before the long rains start.
- Visitor numbers are low, though the Easter holidays can be busier.
- Night skies can be scintillatingly clear in early March.
- Cropped down savannah grasses can make it easier to see the wildlife.
- Temperartures climb high, especially at lower elevations.
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in March
Kenya in April
April sees the full onset of the southeast monsoon wind or kusi, which heralds the long rains. Temperatures drop soon after the rains are established and you’ll often have facilities largely to yourself in this more affordable low season, sometimes known as the "green season". The bush quickly springs to life, with greenery sprouting almost before your eyes. While you're likely to get a fair number of heavy showers, the breaks in the rain can yield sparklingly clear conditions.
With the dust settled and bright sun piercing the clouds, conditions can be sublime for photography, especially first thing in the morning or in the late afternoon with another storm brewing. You may be lucky, or you may find conditions very wet and muddy.
- A wet month, the coast often gets more than 300mm (12in) of rain.
- Sunny spells can provide great light for photography.
- Buffalo and zebra calving season often happens in this month.
- Baby crocodiles hatch, for example on Central Island in Lake Turkana.
- Palearctic migrant birds gather to fly north to breeding grounds.
Our view
A time to avoid if possible
Weather in April
Kenya in May
While game viewing can be trickier as vegetation runs riot, between the cloudbursts the colours and light are great for photography at this time of year. Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in May, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and while it's reasonable to expect heavy rains in many parts during this month, especially on the coast, the rains don't always come evenly or in some areas come at all.
In an El Niño year, the so-called long rains that normally are established across much of the country by May can be meagre, to the despair of farmers. On the other hand in a La Niña year, the long rains can bring floods. On the coast, the monsoon winds make the climate much more predictable, with heavy rains common throughout this month.
- Frogs breed in the ponds in the Arabuko Sokoke Forest near Watamu.
- Wildebeest, impala and other grazers are in rut (the breeding season).
- Kilimanjaro looks its best as heavy rain falls as snow on the summit.
- There's a sharp peek of rainfall on the coast with many rainy days.
- Accommodation prices are uniformly low, while some camps close.
Our view
A time to avoid if possible
Weather in May
Kenya in June
The rains give way to cloudy, cooler weather, often making for comfortable conditions by the end of the month, especially in the highlands. Starting from mid-June or the beginning of July and running until the end of October, this is the high season, and accordingly has higher accommodation rates and – at least until early September – higher numbers of visitors.
While the early part of June can often be rainy on the coast, it can be a great time to go on safari, with fresh greenery, many young animals and good photographic conditions with clear air.
- The Taru Desert, inland from the coast, is carpeted with flowers.
- The Lake Turkana Cultural Festival is held in Loiyangalani.
- Madaraka Day (commemorating self rule) is 1 June.
- The annual Lewa marathon runs a course through the wildlife.
- The Diani Rules "sports" event rips up the rulebook at Diani Beach.
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in June
Kenya in July
Kenya’s “winter" season sets in (winter is a misnomer but locals feel the change), and the highlands can be rather grey. Skies are often cloudy and the days can be surprisingly cool, with an average daytime high in many highland safari areas of 15-20°C and night-time temperatures dropping below 10°C in Nairobi and the highlands. Lower parts of the country and the coast are usually warm and dry, typically reaching highs of around 25°C with lows in the high teens.
As this is the start of the high season, coinciding with the usual arrival of the wildebeest migration in the Maasai Mara, July is a busy month. Ask your Expert Africa specialist to advise on how to avoid the crowds, which is not that difficult to do.
- The wildebeest migration usually reaches the Maasai Mara in July.
- Simbi Lake (Kisumu) and Crater Lake (Naivasha) can attract flamingoes.
- Watersports start to pick up and some surfing is possible at Malindi.
- Afternoon thunderstorms are a common feature in the Maasai Mara.
- The sea can be choppy along the coast, making diving difficult.
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in July
Kenya in August
The Great Migration fills the plains of the Maasai Mara, and school’s out, so the park roads are full of tourists – ask your Expert Africa specialist for advice on crowd avoidance tactics. Choose a private conservancy rather than a public national park or national reserve for quieter conditions.
Like July, August is generally mild and relatively dry in the safari areas, but it can be very chilly in the highlands, even in the middle of the day, and hail occasionally falls above altitudes of around 2,400m (8,000ft). Nairobi can be disappointingly overcast, with low cloud.
- Apart from Christmas holidays, this is the busiest month of the year.
- Late August sees peak wildebeest drama at the Mara River crossings.
- Coastal winds are good for kite- and wind-surfing.
- Few mosquitoes are around at this generally dry time of year.
- The annual Camel Derby takes place in the Samburu capital, Maralal.
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in August
Kenya in September
The skies clearing of cloud signals the start of hot, dry weather with little chance of rain – and, after the first few days of the month, far fewer visitors – making the latter part of September a good time for a quieter safari. While early September is often good for dramatic migration crossings along the Mara River, you might consider deliberately postponing your trip until later in the month, when the migration can still be very impressive and visitor numbers fewer.
If tourist surges are somewhat predictable, however, the patterns of the wildebeest migration are more volatile, and like all of Expert Africa's climate and weather assessments, they are based on accumulated years of experience rather than guaranteed certainty.
- This is still high season, with prices to match.
- Many river crossings take place on the Mara river in both directions.
- Natural bush fires flush out insects and small animals for predators.
- The Rift Valley Music Festival takes place by Lake Naivasha.
- With school holidays over by early September, late-month is quieter.
Our view
Fantastic: the very best time to visit
Weather in September
Kenya in October
Still hot, mostly dry and not too busy, this is many people’s preferred month for a safari, and it’s also good for diving and snorkelling. The wildebeest and zebra herds of the great migration are often still to be seen, though in dwindling numbers. The swamps of Amboseli attract thirsty wildlife including large herds of elephants.
While we wouldn't expect much rain across most of the country this month, the climate has become so unpredictable that you can never say never, and the possibiity of the short rains – usually associated with November to mid-December, starting early, can't be discounted.
- This month sees the tail end of the great migration in the Mara.
- Palearctic migrant birds start to arrive, staying until March.
- Turtle nests hatch at Watamu, until November.
- Amboseli elephants focus on the swamps for their daily water.
- The Indian Ocean monsoon winds turn from southeast to northeast.
Our view
A very good time to visit
Weather in October
Kenya in November
The northeast monsoon wind or kaskazi heralds the start of the “short rains", usually some time in the second half of the month. From November to mid-December, this is the low season, and accordingly has lower accommodation rates and lower visitor numbers. Across most of the country you can expect warm, somewhat cloudy weather, with occasional heavy showers and localised flooding.
Expert Africa bases its description of the climate in November, like the other months of the year, on the records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable: some years the short rains don't come at all, or don't reach every part of the country. In an El Niño year, the November short rains can be very heavy, but in a La Niña year, they can fail completely.
- Swimming with dolphins in Lamu can be done from now until April.
- Birders gather at Ngulia in Tsavo West to ring Palearctic migrants.
- The Lamu Cultural Festival takes over the town and Lamu Creek.
- Agricultural shows often take place regional market towns.
- This is low season, so camps can be great value, with special offers.
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in November
Kenya in December
In a typical December, the rains usually finish by middle of the month, leaving the landscape looking its best, under clear blue skies, and heralding the start of the second peak tourist season from around 20 December to the first week of January. Our assessment of the likely weather in December, like the other months of the year, is based on climate records, and it's fair to say that the seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.
Christmas can sometimes be wet, but most years the rains have finished a week or two earlier, with the festive season ushering in the perfect combination of clear skies and sunshine by day and starry nights.
- Christmas and New Year are busy, with the lodges and camps full.
- Rates are highest after 24 Dec, with supplements on public holidays.
- Republic Day and Independence day are celebrated on 12 December.
- Good kite- and wind-surfing restarts, with strong northeasterly winds.
- Mango season begins, providing excitement for primates and elephants.
Our view
A good time to visit, with pros & cons
Weather in December

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