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Nairobi
Nairobi
Nairobi

In Kenya's capital you'll find some excellent accommodation...

Nairobi Tented Camp offers a real bush feeling.

Nairobi

Nairobi

Nairobi has some creditable must-sees of its own, of which the standout attraction is the remarkable Nairobi National Park.

Kenya’s sprawling, traffic-choked capital is an unavoidable stopover on many itineraries, and most people wouldn’t choose to spend longer in the city than necessary. But Nairobi is not nearly as bad as its ‘Nairobbery’ reputation might suggest: there are some great hotels and restaurants, and the shopping opportunities – in malls or outdoor curio markets (so-called ‘Maasai markets’) – can be very good.

All our road transfers in Nairobi are handled by a very long established and highly reputable safari operator and you will be met outside the arrivals hall by a uniformed driver-guide. At the end of your safari, your driver-guide and private vehicle will be at your disposal throughout the time you are in Nairobi until you need to check in for your flight. This means you can comfortably have some dinner somewhere and get to the airport in good time. Earlier in the day, if time allows, you may well be able to visit one or more of Nairobi's attractions. Please ask as about this before finalising your booking.

Nairobi

Flying into Nairobi and where to stay


Airports and traffic

The main Nairobi airport is Jomo Kenyatta International, known as JKI or JKIA. When departing from this airport, it's useful to know that access to the airport area requires a security check on the access road, in which all passengers have to leave their vehicles. You're advised to leave all bags in the vehicle, otherwise you'll have to pass them through an x-ray machine.

The city’s second airport is the domestic airport, Wilson airport, which is closer to the city centre. Most safari flights leave from Wilson. There are no flights between the two airports and transfers between the two frequently take an hour or more.

Nairobi may leave every visitor with a different impression, but one thing everyone agrees on is the indescribable madness of the traffic. Traffic jams of stationary vehicles lasting for hours are commonplace on many of what would be the city’s arterial roads if the traffic were moving. Tales of Nairobi residents who took less time travelling from European capitals to Nairobi than from the airport to their homes are legion and commutes of three to four hours – in both directions – are not unusual. All the traffic to the central highlands, the Rift Valley and northern and western Kenya passes through the city. While major road-building projects are beginning to relieve the pressure, you shouldn’t underestimate the potential for delays in one of the most snarled-up cities in the world. Bearing that in mind, and depending on your timing, there’s a lot to be said for staying close to the airports in the southeast, or even in Nairobi National Park itself, which now has highly recommended options.

The JKI Airport area and Mombasa Road

If you want to avoid the city’s traffic, which as the rush hours get longer, is increasingly unavoidable for most of the day, then staying out of town in the south-east, close to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA), is probably the best solution. As well as a hotel at the airport itself (the Four Points by Sheraton Nairobi Airport and the Crowne Plaza Nairobi Airport) there are two popular hotels – the Ole Sereni and the Eka – about 12km from the airport.

There are two excellent options in Nairobi National Park – the traditional, luxury-under-canvas Nairobi Tented Camp on the west side of the park, and a superb safari lodge, The Emakoko, on the south side of the park, closer to the airport.

Then if you take a 30-minute drive down the Mombasa highway towards the coast you’re on the Athi Plains, where the Swara Plains Conservancy, a former game ranch, offers a charmingly rustic safari lodge and surprisingly good wildlife viewing.

Karen & Langata

Many visitors opt to stay in the leafy suburbs of Karen and Langata, in the south-west of the city where there are several very pleasant and comfortable country-house style hotels and guesthouses. There are several worthwhile activities out here, too, including the captivating elephant orphanage run by the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, where you’ll get close encounters with tiny pachyderms; the Giraffe Centre run by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife, where you can look into the eyes of a Rothschild giraffe at treetop height; a number of interesting crafts shops and workshops; and the Karen Blixen Museum celebrating the life of the colonial-era, Danish writer who lived here.

The Central Business District & West Nairobi

If nothing but central Nairobi will do, or you want to stay in one of the city’s iconic old hotels, dating back to the early years of the last century, than you’ll be staying in the central business district (CBD), or simply ‘town’ to most Nairobians.

You’ll be able to walk to the Kenyatta International Conference Centre for 360-degree, rooftop views of the city, to the National Archives and City Market, and to take a short cab ride to the National Museum for an introduction to Kenya’s cultures and wildlife.

Westlands and Gigiri

These relatively central parts of Nairobi to the north of the CBD offer the convenience of being close to some of the city’s best shopping centres and restaurants and not far from the National Museum and the city centre’s handful of attractions. Gigiri has the Village Market, Nairobi’s best shopping mall and entertainment complex, which is also close to one of the city’s best green spaces, the beautiful Karura Forest, where you can safely go birdwatching, walk to caves and waterfalls, or go for a run.

Trips visiting Nairobi

Just ideas, we'll always tailor-make a trip for you


Itinerary image

The Highlights of Africa

17 days • 7 locations
CAPE TOWN AIRPORT TO KIGALI AIRPORT

An epic adventure taking in some of Africa’s most incredible sights and wildlife experiences, from Cape Town to the Okavango Delta, Victoria Falls, the Maasai Mara and an encounter with mountain gorillas.

US$14,380 - US$19,710 per person

Itinerary image

Black Kite Fly-in Safari

10 days • 4 locations
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

Explore Kenya in-depth with visits to Nairobi and Meru national parks, the Mara Conservancies and Amboseli. Nestled in remoter regions, four camps provide fantastic access to rich game, a range of activities and beautifully diverse landscapes.

US$9,260 - US$11,960 per person

Itinerary image

African Finfoot Fly-in Safari

7 days • 3 locations
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

After a unique start in Nairobi National Park, classic, luxurious camps combine for a high-end and exclusive safari in fantastic wildlife destinations.

US$9,900 - US$17,340 per person

Itinerary image

Rothschild Giraffe Safari

8 days • 3 locations
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

A example of a luxury Kenyan safari, starting at the iconic Giraffe Manor before fabulous stays on the spectacular Solio Reserve and Sala’s Camp in a remote corner of the Maasai Mara.

US$11,720 - US$17,830 per person

Itinerary image

Gabar Goshawk Fly-in Safari

7 days • 3 locations
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

Experience Amboseli and Laikipia during this economically priced safari. Two simple camps offer adventure before a stopover in Nairobi and a final stay in the charming, wildlife-rich Il Ngwesi Eco-Lodge.

US$5,800 - US$6,580 per person

View all trips

Most recent reviews of our trips to Nairobi

Click below to browse all 519 reviews from Nairobi. All from our travellers; all are in full & unedited.


99%
519 reviews since August 2007
Excellent
497
Good
21
Average
5
Poor
2
Terrible
0
Patricia and Leo from LDN

Arrived 24 Oct 2024, 10 nights

"Our 40th bday trip"

"This was hands down the best trip we've been on …" Read Patricia and Leo’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Miss J. from United Kingdom

Arrived 2 Nov 2024, 7 nights

"My Nov Kenya 2024 trip"

"Thank you Jessica and Expert Africa. We would definitely recommend you! …" Read Miss J.’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Richard from London

Arrived 4 Oct 2024, 16 nights

"My Oct 2024 trip"

"the trip of a lifetime - extremely well organized …" Read Richard’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Dr & Mrs P from York

Arrived 18 Oct 2024, 11 nights

"My Oct 2024 trip"

"we keep coming back because we know that we will always get an excellent holiday …" Read Dr & Mrs P’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Brihat from Lancashire

Arrived 12 Oct 2024, 15 nights

"My Oct 2024 trip"

"We thoroughly enjoyed our holiday …" Read Brihat’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Mr & Mrs Q from Birmingham

Arrived 21 Sep 2024, 16 nights

"My Sep 2024 trip"

"Parita from Expert Africa gave brilliant advice in putting our trip together. …" Read Mr & Mrs Q’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Ms F from California, USA

Arrived 12 Sep 2024, 15 nights

"My Sep 2024 trip to Kenya"

"an unforgettable experience. Thank you so much! …" Read Ms F ’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Mrs A. & Ms. K from Canada

Arrived 7 Sep 2024, 24 nights

"My Sep 2024 trip"

"What can I say? This trip was beyond beyond. Thank you, thank you, thank you... …" Read Mrs A. & Ms. K’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Ms. R from Canada

Arrived 12 Sep 2024, 12 nights

"My Sep 2024 trip"

"A trip of a lifetime...I enjoyed myself immensely. …" Read Ms. R ’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

Mr & Mrs K from Maidstone

Arrived 27 Aug 2024, 10 nights

"Maasai Mara 2024 trip"

"A very good trip... follow a Serval mother & three cubs/kittens.. …" Read Mr & Mrs K’s full holiday review

Overall rating: Excellent

See all Nairobi reviews

Where to stay in Nairobi

Our suggestions for places to stay in Nairobi


Four Points Nairobi Airport

Four Points Nairobi Airport

The Four Points by Sheraton, set within the perimeter of Nairobi International Airport, is ideally located for a first or last night in Kenya.


91% (166 reviews)
The Emakoko

The Emakoko

The Emakoko is a luxurious, owner-managed safari lodge in a beautiful gorge on the edge of Nairobi National Park.


96% (120 reviews)
Eka Hotel

Eka Hotel

The Eka is an affordably priced business-class hotel in a relatively convenient location between Nairobi International Airport and Wilson Airport.


86% (62 reviews)
Ole-Sereni

Ole-Sereni

The Ole-Sereni is a modern, stylish hotel neighbouring Nairobi National Park and located 6km from Wilson domestic airport.


79% (59 reviews)
Crowne Plaza Nairobi Airport

Crowne Plaza Nbi Apt

The Crowne Plaza Nairobi Airport (formerly known as the Lazizi Premiere and now part of the InterContinental Hotels Group) is the oldest hotel at Nairobi International Airport.


88% (60 reviews)
Macushla House

Macushla House

Macushla House is a very pleasant, small, owner-managed bed and breakfast hotel in a leafy part of southwest Nairobi, very convenient for visiting the Giraffe Centre and Sheldrick's Elephant Orphanage.


91% (53 reviews)
Giraffe Manor

Giraffe Manor

Giraffe Manor is a unique, perennially popular lodge on the outskirts of Nairobi, offering up-close-and-personal encounters with the rare Rothschild giraffes that roam its extensive grounds.


98% (37 reviews)
Aero Club of East Africa

Aero Club of East Africa

The Aero Club of East Africa is a private members' club in the grounds of Wilson Airport, Nairobi, offering offering comfortable rooms and a good restaurant, bar and swimming pool to non-members.


82% (34 reviews)
Tamarind Tree Hotel

Tamarind Tree Hotel

The Tamarind Tree is a stylish international hotel in a great location next to Wilson Airport.


88% (29 reviews)
Karen Gables

Karen Gables

Karen Gables is a small, high quality hotel in Nairobi with expansive gardens and only seven rooms.


99% (17 reviews)
Hemingways Nairobi

Hemingways Nairobi

Hemingways Nairobi is a luxury country-house style hotel, with a spa and gym, in the wealthy suburb of Karen.


98% (8 reviews)
The Norfolk Hotel

The Norfolk Hotel

The Norfolk Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Nairobi and has a reputation for its colourful history dating back to 1904.


100% (7 reviews)
Nairobi Tented Camp

Nairobi Tented Camp

Nairobi Tented Camp is the only tented camp located inside Nairobi National Park, making it a great option for a true safari stay close to the city and airports.


88% (5 reviews)
Palacina

Palacina

The Palacina is a complex of accommodation options in a quieter part of central Nairobi.


84% (5 reviews)
Sankara

Sankara

Sankara is a strikingly built hotel in the bustling central Nairobi suburb of Westlands, primarily used as a business stay, with very good dining and leisure facilities.


90% (2 reviews)
Karen Blixen Coffee Garden and Cottages

Karen Blixen Coffee Garden and Cottages

Karen Blixen Coffee Gardens and Cottages is small luxury boutique hotel located in the peaceful suburb of Karen.


70% (2 reviews)
Eden Nairobi

Eden Nairobi

One Forty Eight is a very stylish boutique hotel in one of the leafiest corners of the southwest Nairobi suburb of Karen-Langata. The Giraffe Centre at Giraffe Manor is just a 10-minute walk away.


100% (1 review)
Ololo Safari Lodge

Ololo Safari Lodge

Ololo Safari Lodge and Farm is a luxury property on the southern edge of Nairobi National Park.


100% (1 review)
Tribe

Tribe

Design-led, contemporary hotel in the Village Market area of Gigiri, a largely diplomatic and luxury residential suburb 10km north of Nairobi’s central business district.


No reviews yet
The Stanley

The Stanley

The Stanley is a large, traditional hotel – the oldest in Nairobi – offering a range of facilities.


No reviews yet
Acacia Camp

Acacia Camp

Acacia Camp is a rustic and affordable safari camp in a wildlife sanctuary a 30-minute drive towards Mombasa from Nairobi’s international airport.


No reviews yet

View all places

Our travellers’ wildlife sightings in Nairobi

This is their success for sightings in Nairobi. Click on a species for more detail. How we work this out.


Giraffe

88% success

Zebra

86% success

Black Rhino

80% success

White Rhino

76% success

Buffalo

75% success

Lion

75% success

Eland

61% success

Wildebeest

53% success

Spotted Hyena

49% success

Cheetah

12% success

Striped Hyena

5% success

Wild dog

5% success

Leopard

3% success

Pangolin

2% success

Aardvark

0% success

When to go to Nairobi

Our month by month guide: What it's like to visit Nairobi in Kenya


Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Kenya in January

Clear, hot days and warm nights make this high season a popular time for safaris and it’s also good for diving and snorkelling as water clarity is excellent and gets better as the dry season progresses. Most lodges and tented camps treat January after the New Year week is over, as mid-season, making it a good compromise in terms of value for money with reasonably reliable, dry weather and some greenery left in the landscape.

Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in January, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the weather and seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.

  • On average, January is the second driest month of the year
  • Elephants dig waterholes in the dry riverbed in the Samburu reserve.
  • Wildebeest and many antelope have their calving season, to February.
  • Migrant birds are seen in huge numbers, especially in the Rift Valley.
  • Sea water clarity around the coral reefs generally good.

Our view

Fantastic: the very best time to visit

Weather in January

Kenya in February

With the short dry season well established, the grass grazed down and wildlife gathering close to water points, this is still a good time for a safari. Good water clarity in the Indian Ocean's coastal waters makes for excellent diving and snorkelling conditions.

Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in February, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the weather and seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.

  • On average, February is the driest month of the year.
  • It’s sometimes possible to swim with whale sharks at Diani Beach.
  • Migrant birds are still seen everywhere, especially near water.
  • This is usually peak calving season for wildebeest and many antelopes.
  • This month is often the hottest of the year, especially on the coast.

Our view

A very good time to visit

Weather in February

Kenya in March

Hot, increasingly humid weather – with good diving and snorkelling conditions at the start of the month – gives way to rains and lower accommodation costs. Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in March, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and predicting the seasons since the beginning of this century has been difficult.

March is the month when – traditionally – intensely hot conditions build up until a cloudburst finally happens at the end of the month or in early April, to relieve the humidity. As ever, regional variations across the country can greatly impact on visitors' experiences.

  • Sea-water clarity is best for diving before the long rains start.
  • Visitor numbers are low, though the Easter holidays can be busier.
  • Night skies can be scintillatingly clear in early March.
  • Cropped down savannah grasses can make it easier to see the wildlife.
  • Temperartures climb high, especially at lower elevations.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in March

Kenya in April

April sees the full onset of the southeast monsoon wind or kusi, which heralds the long rains. Temperatures drop soon after the rains are established and you’ll often have facilities largely to yourself in this more affordable low season, sometimes known as the "green season". The bush quickly springs to life, with greenery sprouting almost before your eyes. While you're likely to get a fair number of heavy showers, the breaks in the rain can yield sparklingly clear conditions.

With the dust settled and bright sun piercing the clouds, conditions can be sublime for photography, especially first thing in the morning or in the late afternoon with another storm brewing. You may be lucky, or you may find conditions very wet and muddy.

  • A wet month, the coast often gets more than 300mm (12in) of rain.
  • Sunny spells can provide great light for photography.
  • Buffalo and zebra calving season often happens in this month.
  • Baby crocodiles hatch, for example on Central Island in Lake Turkana.
  • Palearctic migrant birds gather to fly north to breeding grounds.

Our view

A time to avoid if possible

Weather in April

Kenya in May

While game viewing can be trickier as vegetation runs riot, between the cloudbursts the colours and light are great for photography at this time of year. Expert Africa bases its description of climate and weather in May, like the other months of the year, on the climate records of roughly the last 100 years, and while it's reasonable to expect heavy rains in many parts during this month, especially on the coast, the rains don't always come evenly or in some areas come at all.

In an El Niño year, the so-called long rains that normally are established across much of the country by May can be meagre, to the despair of farmers. On the other hand in a La Niña year, the long rains can bring floods. On the coast, the monsoon winds make the climate much more predictable, with heavy rains common throughout this month.

  • Frogs breed in the ponds in the Arabuko Sokoke Forest near Watamu.
  • Wildebeest, impala and other grazers are in rut (the breeding season).
  • Kilimanjaro looks its best as heavy rain falls as snow on the summit.
  • There's a sharp peek of rainfall on the coast with many rainy days.
  • Accommodation prices are uniformly low, while some camps close.

Our view

A time to avoid if possible

Weather in May

Kenya in June

The rains give way to cloudy, cooler weather, often making for comfortable conditions by the end of the month, especially in the highlands. Starting from mid-June or the beginning of July and running until the end of October, this is the high season, and accordingly has higher accommodation rates and – at least until early September – higher numbers of visitors.

While the early part of June can often be rainy on the coast, it can be a great time to go on safari, with fresh greenery, many young animals and good photographic conditions with clear air.

  • The Taru Desert, inland from the coast, is carpeted with flowers.
  • The Lake Turkana Cultural Festival is held in Loiyangalani.
  • Madaraka Day (commemorating self rule) is 1 June.
  • The annual Lewa marathon runs a course through the wildlife.
  • The Diani Rules "sports" event rips up the rulebook at Diani Beach.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in June

Kenya in July

Kenya’s “winter" season sets in (winter is a misnomer but locals feel the change), and the highlands can be rather grey. Skies are often cloudy and the days can be surprisingly cool, with an average daytime high in many highland safari areas of 15-20°C and night-time temperatures dropping below 10°C in Nairobi and the highlands. Lower parts of the country and the coast are usually warm and dry, typically reaching highs of around 25°C with lows in the high teens.

As this is the start of the high season, coinciding with the usual arrival of the wildebeest migration in the Maasai Mara, July is a busy month. Ask your Expert Africa specialist to advise on how to avoid the crowds, which is not that difficult to do.

  • The wildebeest migration usually reaches the Maasai Mara in July.
  • Simbi Lake (Kisumu) and Crater Lake (Naivasha) can attract flamingoes.
  • Watersports start to pick up and some surfing is possible at Malindi.
  • Afternoon thunderstorms are a common feature in the Maasai Mara.
  • The sea can be choppy along the coast, making diving difficult.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in July

Kenya in August

The Great Migration fills the plains of the Maasai Mara, and school’s out, so the park roads are full of tourists – ask your Expert Africa specialist for advice on crowd avoidance tactics. Choose a private conservancy rather than a public national park or national reserve for quieter conditions.

Like July, August is generally mild and relatively dry in the safari areas, but it can be very chilly in the highlands, even in the middle of the day, and hail occasionally falls above altitudes of around 2,400m (8,000ft). Nairobi can be disappointingly overcast, with low cloud.

  • Apart from Christmas holidays, this is the busiest month of the year.
  • Late August sees peak wildebeest drama at the Mara River crossings.
  • Coastal winds are good for kite- and wind-surfing.
  • Few mosquitoes are around at this generally dry time of year.
  • The annual Camel Derby takes place in the Samburu capital, Maralal.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in August

Kenya in September

The skies clearing of cloud signals the start of hot, dry weather with little chance of rain – and, after the first few days of the month, far fewer visitors – making the latter part of September a good time for a quieter safari. While early September is often good for dramatic migration crossings along the Mara River, you might consider deliberately postponing your trip until later in the month, when the migration can still be very impressive and visitor numbers fewer.

If tourist surges are somewhat predictable, however, the patterns of the wildebeest migration are more volatile, and like all of Expert Africa's climate and weather assessments, they are based on accumulated years of experience rather than guaranteed certainty.

  • This is still high season, with prices to match.
  • Many river crossings take place on the Mara river in both directions.
  • Natural bush fires flush out insects and small animals for predators.
  • The Rift Valley Music Festival takes place by Lake Naivasha.
  • With school holidays over by early September, late-month is quieter.

Our view

Fantastic: the very best time to visit

Weather in September

Kenya in October

Still hot, mostly dry and not too busy, this is many people’s preferred month for a safari, and it’s also good for diving and snorkelling. The wildebeest and zebra herds of the great migration are often still to be seen, though in dwindling numbers. The swamps of Amboseli attract thirsty wildlife including large herds of elephants.

While we wouldn't expect much rain across most of the country this month, the climate has become so unpredictable that you can never say never, and the possibiity of the short rains – usually associated with November to mid-December, starting early, can't be discounted.

  • This month sees the tail end of the great migration in the Mara.
  • Palearctic migrant birds start to arrive, staying until March.
  • Turtle nests hatch at Watamu, until November.
  • Amboseli elephants focus on the swamps for their daily water.
  • The Indian Ocean monsoon winds turn from southeast to northeast.

Our view

A very good time to visit

Weather in October

Kenya in November

The northeast monsoon wind or kaskazi heralds the start of the “short rains", usually some time in the second half of the month. From November to mid-December, this is the low season, and accordingly has lower accommodation rates and lower visitor numbers. Across most of the country you can expect warm, somewhat cloudy weather, with occasional heavy showers and localised flooding.

Expert Africa bases its description of the climate in November, like the other months of the year, on the records of roughly the last 100 years, and it's fair to say that the seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable: some years the short rains don't come at all, or don't reach every part of the country. In an El Niño year, the November short rains can be very heavy, but in a La Niña year, they can fail completely.

  • Swimming with dolphins in Lamu can be done from now until April.
  • Birders gather at Ngulia in Tsavo West to ring Palearctic migrants.
  • The Lamu Cultural Festival takes over the town and Lamu Creek.
  • Agricultural shows often take place regional market towns.
  • This is low season, so camps can be great value, with special offers.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in November

Kenya in December

In a typical December, the rains usually finish by middle of the month, leaving the landscape looking its best, under clear blue skies, and heralding the start of the second peak tourist season from around 20 December to the first week of January. Our assessment of the likely weather in December, like the other months of the year, is based on climate records, and it's fair to say that the seasons since the beginning of this century have been highly irregular and unpredictable.

Christmas can sometimes be wet, but most years the rains have finished a week or two earlier, with the festive season ushering in the perfect combination of clear skies and sunshine by day and starry nights.

  • Christmas and New Year are busy, with the lodges and camps full.
  • Rates are highest after 24 Dec, with supplements on public holidays.
  • Republic Day and Independence day are celebrated on 12 December.
  • Good kite- and wind-surfing restarts, with strong northeasterly winds.
  • Mango season begins, providing excitement for primates and elephants.

Our view

A good time to visit, with pros & cons

Weather in December

Nairobi: In detail

A guide to Nairobi


History of Nairobi

The first inklings that a city was going to appear here came in May 1899, when the British builders of the railway into the interior built a camp here as they figured out how to get the line up the steep slopes ahead and then down the vertiginous escarpment into the Rift Valley beyond. The city started life as a supply depot, railway switching yard and campground for the Indian labourers working on the line. The location was originally called Nakusontelon, ‘Beginning of all Beauty’, but the name it came to be known by came from the Maa words enkare nyarobi, ‘the place of cold water’, which the Maasai used to describe the area.

Without any planning, the settlement took root and was made the capital of the newly formed ‘British East Africa’ in 1907. In 1902, the Stanley hotel (now the Sarova Stanley) had opened, followed two years later by the Norfolk. The city grew rapidly in the run-up to World War I and was the capital of the dissolute ‘Happy Valley set’ in the inter-war years. There was a further burst of settler arrivals, and increased migration from the countryside, after World War II. After independence in 1963, the city centre started sprouting high-rise buildings, but as the city spread out in every direction, the old central business district lost its shine in the 1980s and early 90s and acquired a notoriety for beggars, street children and muggings. Since the late 1990s, it has been transforming again as businesses return, and a limited amount of beautification has taken place: even street lighting has been installed and the term “nightlife" once again has a meaning.

Meanwhile, the relentless spread of the suburbs – up to Kiambu and towards Thika, down to Kitengela and Athi River, out to Kiserian, and to the lip of the Rift Valley – continues unabated.

Markets

If you want to do some souvenir shopping, Nariobi’s markets are irresistible. Try to visit one of the weekly so-called ‘Maasai markets’ that rotate around various car parks and shopping mall rooftops: their prices tend to be lower than those in the curio shops. City Market, in the CBD, tends to be quite pricey, but it’s open daily. Other markets, like Kariokor and Gikomba, are very much markets for local produce and daily needs. If you’re interested, your driver would be able to escort you.

Nairobi landmarks

If you’re going to be stopping over in Nairobi for a day or more, one excursion option would be a half- or full-day city tour. These normally take in Nairobi’s broad Kenyatta Avenue, lined with shops and offices and with its palm tree central reservations. Just a stone’s throw from Kenyatta Avenue is the first president’s mausoleum, City Square and nearby the Kenyan Parliament building. Just behind, stands the iconic Kenyatta International Conference Centre, with its heli-pad roof. It’s easy to take the elevator to the top for superb views of the city. To the south you’ll see the sidings and railway yards at Nairobi station, where the Railway Museum makes for a fascinating brief visit.

There are more substantial exhibits at the often overlooked National Archives on Moi Avenue, which includes some very good ethnic crafts and weaponry. For this kind of thing, plus a lot of stuffed animals and birds, you should reserve a couple of hours for the National Museum. While it doesn’t match everyone’s expectations, it does do a reasonable job of preparing you for what you’ll see on safari.

Nairobi National Park

This is no Central Park or Wimbledon Common: Nairobi National Park covers 117km² and, in an area that in any other capital would be suburbs, the park is a rolling wilderness of grasslands, streams, woodland and ravines, where lions hunt, black rhinos browse, white rhinos graze and giraffe do their slow motion cantering against a skyscraper background. At the other end of the wildlife spectrum, on one recent visit, we stopped to watch a young python moving off the earth road one evening, and paused to look at a large leopard tortoise – significantly out of its species’ normal comfort zone at this altitude. If you stay either in the camp or lodge located in the park, you may be able to do a short night game drive, as they have permission to transfer guests to or from the airports after dark.

Dozens of species of plains wildlife, including wildebeest, impala, zebra, hippo, waterbuck, warthog, eland, jackal and hyena (the only major absentee is the elephant) live completely natural lives in Nairobi National Park, only stopped from wandering into the city by a fence along the northern boundary, but free to move out onto the plains to the south across the Mbagathi River.

You have a good chance of seeing lions in the park (on our last visit, two big males were tussling over the weighty head of an eland) and sightings of leopards and cheetahs, although much less common, are far from unknown. Leopards used to be notorious for making nocturnal sorties out of the park to hunt dogs in the south-west suburbs. That unauthorised activity seems to have been taken over by lions, which sometimes appear unexpectedly in suburban streets.

Map of Nairobi

Choices for where to stay in Nairobi


Reference map

Nairobi: Holidays

Many travellers will start or finish their safaris in Nairobi, but few people think of it as a place to include on its own merits. Happily that view is changing as visitors discover the delights of gracious hotels like Giraffe Manor, where guests are visited at breakfast time by gentle Rothschild giraffes; bush lodges like The Emakoko; or tented camps like Nairobi Tented Camp both of which are in Nairobi National Park and can offer great wildife viewing (including lions and both species of rhinos) just minutes from camp.


Showing 1-5 of 5
Name
Duration
Cost
Most popular
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The Highlights of Africa

17 days • 7 locations
CAPE TOWN AIRPORT TO KIGALI AIRPORT

An epic adventure taking in some of Africa’s most incredible sights and wildlife experiences, from Cape Town to the Okavango Delta, Victoria Falls, the Maasai Mara and an encounter with mountain gorillas.

US$14,380 - US$19,710 per person

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Black Kite Fly-in Safari

10 days • 4 locations
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

Explore Kenya in-depth with visits to Nairobi and Meru national parks, the Mara Conservancies and Amboseli. Nestled in remoter regions, four camps provide fantastic access to rich game, a range of activities and beautifully diverse landscapes.

US$9,260 - US$11,960 per person

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African Finfoot Fly-in Safari

7 days • 3 locations
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

After a unique start in Nairobi National Park, classic, luxurious camps combine for a high-end and exclusive safari in fantastic wildlife destinations.

US$9,900 - US$17,340 per person

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Rothschild Giraffe Safari

8 days • 3 locations
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

A example of a luxury Kenyan safari, starting at the iconic Giraffe Manor before fabulous stays on the spectacular Solio Reserve and Sala’s Camp in a remote corner of the Maasai Mara.

US$11,720 - US$17,830 per person

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Gabar Goshawk Fly-in Safari

7 days • 3 locations
NAIROBI AIRPORT TO NAIROBI AIRPORT

Experience Amboseli and Laikipia during this economically priced safari. Two simple camps offer adventure before a stopover in Nairobi and a final stay in the charming, wildlife-rich Il Ngwesi Eco-Lodge.

US$5,800 - US$6,580 per person

Showing 1-5 of 5

Best 21 hotels and places to stay in Nairobi

Listed below are our recommendations for nice places to stay in Nairobi. The variety is broad, so ask us for more details of what's where, and what's likely to suit you best!


Showing 1-12 of 21
Name
Traveller's rating
No. of reviews
Four Points Nairobi Airport

Four Points Nairobi Airport

The Four Points by Sheraton, set within the perimeter of Nairobi International Airport, is ideally located for a first or last night in Kenya.


91% (166 reviews)
The Emakoko

The Emakoko

The Emakoko is a luxurious, owner-managed safari lodge in a beautiful gorge on the edge of Nairobi National Park.


96% (120 reviews)
Eka Hotel

Eka Hotel

The Eka is an affordably priced business-class hotel in a relatively convenient location between Nairobi International Airport and Wilson Airport.


86% (62 reviews)
Ole-Sereni

Ole-Sereni

The Ole-Sereni is a modern, stylish hotel neighbouring Nairobi National Park and located 6km from Wilson domestic airport.


79% (59 reviews)
Crowne Plaza Nairobi Airport

Crowne Plaza Nbi Apt

The Crowne Plaza Nairobi Airport (formerly known as the Lazizi Premiere and now part of the InterContinental Hotels Group) is the oldest hotel at Nairobi International Airport.


88% (60 reviews)
Macushla House

Macushla House

Macushla House is a very pleasant, small, owner-managed bed and breakfast hotel in a leafy part of southwest Nairobi, very convenient for visiting the Giraffe Centre and Sheldrick's Elephant Orphanage.


91% (53 reviews)
Giraffe Manor

Giraffe Manor

Giraffe Manor is a unique, perennially popular lodge on the outskirts of Nairobi, offering up-close-and-personal encounters with the rare Rothschild giraffes that roam its extensive grounds.


98% (37 reviews)
Aero Club of East Africa

Aero Club of East Africa

The Aero Club of East Africa is a private members' club in the grounds of Wilson Airport, Nairobi, offering offering comfortable rooms and a good restaurant, bar and swimming pool to non-members.


82% (34 reviews)
Tamarind Tree Hotel

Tamarind Tree Hotel

The Tamarind Tree is a stylish international hotel in a great location next to Wilson Airport.


88% (29 reviews)
Karen Gables

Karen Gables

Karen Gables is a small, high quality hotel in Nairobi with expansive gardens and only seven rooms.


99% (17 reviews)
Hemingways Nairobi

Hemingways Nairobi

Hemingways Nairobi is a luxury country-house style hotel, with a spa and gym, in the wealthy suburb of Karen.


98% (8 reviews)
The Norfolk Hotel

The Norfolk Hotel

The Norfolk Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Nairobi and has a reputation for its colourful history dating back to 1904.


100% (7 reviews)
Showing 1-5 of 21

Excursions in Nairobi

Optional, extra day-trips and excursions that are possible while you’re staying in Nairobi. Talk to us: these excursions are usually best arranged before you go.


Nairobi Elephant Orphanage visit

Nairobi Elephant Orphanage visit

One hour, by pre-booking only

Visit the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Elephant Orphanage for a close-up encounter with elephant orphans – and sometimes rhino orphans. You can visit during daily between 11:00 and 12:00, or make special arrangements for a private visit in the afternoon.

More about Elephant Orphans visit
95% (56 reviews)
Nairobi Giraffe Centre visit

Nairobi Giraffe Centre visit

One hour visit is generally recommended

Visit the AFEW Giraffe Centre for an eyeball-level encounter with gentle Rothschild giraffes. They visit this tree-level platform to be fed pellets.

More about Giraffe Centre visit
87% (36 reviews)
Safari in Nairobi National Park

Safari in Nairobi National Park

Half day - AM or PM, or full day

It is truly remarkable that the plains and woodland of Nairobi National Park, an area of around 70km² (some 17,000 acres) should exist in a near-natural state so close to the city that in any other conurbation they would just be suburbs.

More about Nairobi Nat. Park Safari
95% (15 reviews)
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