Lamai Serengeti

Lamai Serengeti: Our full report

12 tents
Traveller's rating
Excellent (98%) From 25 reviews
June to March

Nomad Lamai Serengeti opened at the end of June 2011. It's set high up in the beautiful Kogakuria Kopjies, with views out towards the Mara River Valley and Lamai Wedge – in the far north of the Serengeti National Park, just south of the border with Kenya. Between July and October the camp has a prime position to see the great wildebeest migration, and is close enough to the Mara River for guests to witness river crossings.

Lamai Serengeti is a high-quality operation promising some of the best guiding in Tanzania. It's a sister camp to Nomad Serengeti Safari, Kigelia Camp, Sand Rivers, Greystoke, Chada and the brand new Entamanu Ngorongoro.

With 12 rooms in total, Lamai is split into two different, smaller camps; the Main Camp has eight rooms, while the smaller Private Camp has just four. That said, two of the rooms from Private Camp can be incorporated into Main Camp if needed, making that a maximum of ten rooms.

The communal areas of Lamai Serengeti's Main Camp are incredibly spacious, and designed to take advantage of the fantastic views from all angles. Although constructed of wood and concrete, the buildings are painted and finished in such a way that from a distance they almost disappear into the surroundings.

The whole area has an incredibly relaxed, fresh and slightly quirky feel to it. Neutral creams and browns are offset by splashes of red and blue. All fabrics are sourced as locally as possible, and made up in Arusha, instead of being flown in from other countries as is sometimes the case. Everything else for the camp was sourced in East Africa.

The lounge area has plenty of comfortable sofas, placed to take advantage of the breeze that passes through, while in winter, a roaring fire is lit to ward off the cool of the evenings. You'll meet your guide in this area before game drives and with a drink before dinner to discuss the next day's activities.

Slightly below the lounge is a further, circular seating area with more sweeping views. To the left is a funky bar – look out for the tractor seats used as chairs, and the oil-cans used as lamp bases!

Across the decking in the dining area, you can continue to enjoy the views as you eat. There's also a swimming pool with a few sunloungers, which can be a welcome addition during the hot months.

The eight spacious rooms at Lamai Serengeti's Main Camp are nestled right between the kopjies. It's clear that a lot of thought has gone into positioning them to maximise privacy, while allowing each a spectacular sunrise or sunset view. On our last trip, we didn't even notice the room next to us until we were leaving, it was so well hidden!

From the outside, the rooms look fairly simple, but inside they're impressive. Slightly reminiscent of a French country home, their scrubbed wooden floors, thick cream rugs and comfortable furnishings give a rustic homely feel.

You enter through a stable door at the back of the room, which reveals a storage cupboard, stocked mini-fridge, and a small hatch in the wall. In the morning, the staff will wake you with a knock on your door, then leave your tea or coffee in this hatch, so you can rise at your leisure.

Lamai Serengeti's rooms are made mostly of plaster, but the front 'wall' is completely of mosquito gauze, allowing you to enjoy the views from the comfort of your bed. This also lets in a lot of light to the front, while at the back, glass bottles inset in the walls let in light but retain privacy.

A central king-size bed is swathed in a mosquito net; to one side there's a simple white writing desk, and to the other, a day bed. A large wrap-around deck in front of the room is set with a couple of chairs and a small table.

The en-suite bathroom is also spacious, with two aged-metal sinks set in a stone base, with a mirror above, and some pretty beaded pots containing soap. There is a flush toilet, and a shower slightly separated off by a small curved wall. There's also space to hang clothes, as well as another stable door onto the decking at the front.

Two of the rooms are designed with families in mind; each has two bedrooms which share one bathroom. A third room like this is located in Private Camp.

The four-room Private Camp is designed in much the same style as the Main Camp, with its own dining room, lounge and swimming pool. Though the central areas are smaller, they have the same cosy, homely feel to them. There is one family room here. As the name suggests, the Private Camp is usually only available for booking out exclusively by small groups.

Between July and October, when the Serengeti's wildebeest migration is usually in this area around Lamai Serengeti, the game viewing should be phenomenal. However, even outside of this time, the permanent water in the Mara River means there is very good resident game too. Hence Lamai Serengeti is definitely worth visiting at other times of year, too. (Note though that it's closed during the long rains, in April and May). We have previously visited in January, which is very much the off season here, and we found a stunning area with no one else around. Hence the two leopard sightings and four sightings of lion cubs we had, we enjoyed completely by ourselves.

Activitiesat Lamai Serengeti Game revolve around drives led by experienced guides. A few travellers will arrive here as part of an extensive privately guided safari, in which case they'll probably head out with their own guide in a closed 4WD.

However, given that the camp is so far to the north of the Serengeti, most travellers fly-in to the camp – and then use the game drives led by the camp's own guides in open-topped 4WDs.

Of particular interest here, during the migration period (around July to October), is to try to observe one of the great 'river crossings'. The Mara River in this area is deep, permanent and fast-flowing; so seeing hundreds, and often thousands, of animals swimming across – whilst trying not to get swept away or fall victim to the river's huge crocodiles – is a truly spectacular sight. You'll often need patience to see such an event, but it's worth waiting for.

It is also possible to do bushwalks here at certain times of the year when the grass isn't too high. This is led by an armed scout and a guide and usually lasts a few hours.

Our view

Lamai Serengeti has a superb location and very good pedigree, and if you read our travellers' reviews there is little doubt that it is following in the footsteps of its high-quality sister camps. It may not appeal to some purists who like more elemental bushcamps with campfires and simple rooms; it's too substantial and smart. That said there is no air-con or satellite TV here either. It really suits those looking for great guiding and service, superb views and a touch of understated luxury.


Location: Serengeti Migration Area, Tanzania

Ideal length of stay: A stay of 3–4 nights here is probably ideal; to enjoy the resident game for most of the year, and to give a good chance of seeing a river crossing during the migration, between about July and October.

Directions: You can either fly to Kogatende airstrip, from where Lamai Serengeti camp is in easy reach (30 mins), or alternatively drive here if you’ve stayed the previous night somewhere in the central Serengeti, Lobo or Loliondo.

Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel

Owner: Nomad

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: We have visited this camp numerous times over the last few years, most recently in July 2013 and then again January 2014.

In July we thought the food was good and plentiful, if not quite up to the standard of Nomad's other camps. At the time we gave this feedback to the lodge who told us that they'd since been training the chefs very hard. By the time of our visit in January we felt the food was better, and perhaps though its not the best food we have had in the Serengeti, it certainly isn’t far off.

For breakfast we had a selection of cereals and toasts, followed by a hot breakfast, cooked as we liked. This was washed down with fresh juice, tea and coffee.

Lunch is sometimes taken out in the bush, but if you choose to return to the lodge then it's generally a buffet. This was our favourite meal: light and fresh, with salads, bites such as mini burgers, mini barritos with mango salsa and mince, vegetable or lamb kebabs with mint yoghurt, beetroot hummus, fried halloumi, cous cous or pasta salads. Followed by a light dessert such as chocolate mousse, fruit salad of coconut pancakes with honey for dessert. Both breakfast and lunch were eaten at individual tables.

Dinner was a slightly more formal affair where we all sat together around one long table in the dining room. One evening had fennel and broccoli salad to start, the second evening was a tasty vegetable soup. Main courses included beef fingers with mustard mash with fresh vegetables, and chicken wrapped in bacon stuffed with parmesan. Then puddings on offer were a rich chocolate tart one night, an apple and mango crumble and even a floating island.

Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining

Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included

Drinks included: Yes, except for premium drinks and champagne.

Further dining info: Tea and coffee can be delivered to your room with your wake-up call.

Special interests

Honeymoons: For good guiding, excellent service, stunning views and a touch of luxury, Lamai Serengeti is the perfect choice for a Tanzania honeymoon. With each room cleverly tucked away, you’ll enjoy the seclusion and privacy offered here, and either a sunrise or sunset view.

See more ideas for Honeymoons in Tanzania

Wildlife safaris: From July to October Lamai Serengeti will be in a great location for the wildebeest migration. Outside of these months, it still offers great game viewing, with the bonus of very few people!

See more ideas for Wildlife safaris in Tanzania


Attitude towards children: Lamai Serengeti welcomes children over the age of 8.

Property’s age restrictions: Only children over the age of 8 are permitted in the camp.

Special activities & services: There are no special activities for children.

Equipment: None

Notes: As with all safari camps, it’s important to note that Lamai Serengeti is in a wilderness area, and children must be under the supervision of a parent or guardian at all times.


Power supply: Generator

Power supply notes: No hairdryers allowed. There are UK 3-square-pin plug sockets in each room and 24-hour power.

Communications: There is WiFi in the central lounge/bar area. There is a computer that guests can use if they like.

TV & radio: There is no TV here.

Water supply: Borehole

Water supply notes: Drinking water is supplied in the rooms.

Health & safety

Malarial protection recommended: Yes

Medical care: Lamai Serengeti has a first-aid kit in the office and vehicles, and links with the flying-doctor service. All staff are trained in first-aid.

Dangerous animals: High Risk

Security measures: There are askaris on duty who will escort you to your room in the evening.

Fire safety: There are fire extinguishers in all the rooms and the main areas.


Disabled access: Not Possible

Laundry facilities: Laundry (excluding ladies’ underwear) is included in the cost. It is line dried.

Money: There are safes in each of the rooms, and a larger one in the reception for valuables.

Accepted payment on location: Payment is accepted in US dollars, Euros, pounds and Tanzanian shillings cash. Lamai Serengeti also accepts credit card payments for any extras, but there is a 7% surcharge.

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