Kafunta River Lodge: Our full report
The well-established Kafunta River Lodge lies just outside the South Luangwa National Park, beside a large ...... floodplain and watering hole, with the Luangwa River beyond. It's about 9km from the main road that stretches from Mfuwe Airport to the main bridge into South Luangwa National Park, so though it is close to the park gate, because it has its own crossing points into the park, guests have relatively quick access for their activities.
One of the few remaining owner-run camps in South Luangwa, Kafunta was established by Ron and Anke Cowan, who came to the area in 1990 as part of a long trip through Africa. The Cowans were captivated by South Luangwa and decided to settle here. With the help of a dedicated team – many of whom are still with them – they opened Kafunta River Lodge to its first guests in 1998.
We have visited Kafunta a number of times over the years, and have watched it go from strength to strength. Now it is a smart camp, with good food and service, and a very reasonable price tag.
Kafunta's central area is impressively built around a wild mango tree overlooking the floodplain to the river beyond. Reclaimed tree trunks hold up the huge thatched roof and natural tones are used throughout. The effect is a pleasant safari feel: not too fancy, but stylish in its simplicity.
One half of this structure houses a bar-lounge, with high wooden stools propped up at the bar and a fridge stocked with soft and alcoholic drinks. The other side is where meals are taken, when it is too hot (or cold!) to be outside. There's lots of space at the front, too, furnished with armchairs and tables, while adjacent is a small swimming pool. A particularly quirky feature is a natural hot tub supplied by water from a local hot spring.
Extending out over the floodplain, a vast wooden deck makes a lovely spot for breakfast or for dining out under the stars, weather permitting. Rather more unexpected, however, is Kafunta's hide, secreted beneath the deck and overlooking the plain, which is floodlit at night. There's a second viewing deck, too, high up in a tree looking across to the river, a perfect spot for watching wildlife during the day or – on request – for a private meal. And if you're just after some rest and relaxation, the camp has its own spa, a simple rondavel where massages are on offer.
Like the main area, Kafunta's ten chalets overlook the lagoon.
- Eight standard chalets are constructed of wood, with thatched roofs and interiors of stone and wood. Each is set on stilts about a metre off the ground.
Renovated in 2019, these chalets have cool grey stone walls, highly polished stone floors and paned windows set into each of the walls, letting in plenty of natural light. At the front of each chalet is a large pair of double metal doors that look like a spider’s web; covered in mesh, they allow a breeze to pass through while helping to keep insects at bay. The doors lead out to a private veranda with views across the floodplains.
Each chalet is furnished with two three-quarter beds under a large walk-in mosquito net that incorporates a ceiling fan. The rooms also have bucket armchairs and built-in wardrobe space. Minibar/fridges and coffee makers, powered by mains electricity, are standard.
Built on to the corner of each chalet is an en-suite bathroom painted in the same cool colours, with moulded stone walls separating out a shower with hot and cold water, twin washbasins and a flushing toilet. Toiletries are provided, and a bright laundry bag hanging from a wooden peg adds a dash of colour.
- Two ‘deluxe’, or family chalets, although decorated and furnished in a similar way to the standard chalets, are constructed of stone on two levels, and are much more spacious. The bathrooms are also much larger and include a free-standing bath. From the bedroom, stairs lead up to a viewing platform on a veranda nestled in the roof. With a couple of day beds here, it’s a pleasant place to spend the afternoon watching wildlife on the valley floor. And should you wish to spend the night up here (it's also perfect for families), the beds can be covered by mosquito nets, too.
Activities from Kafunta River Lodge centre around 4WD game drives (day and night) and walking safaris, all led by excellent guides. Although the camp is about 30 minutes’ drive from the main Mfuwe Bridge, it benefits from access to the park via the Nkwali pontoon, which is just 1.5km away. The pontoon is exclusive to safari operators’ vehicles, meaning you can avoid the morning rush at the main gate.
The majority of game drives from Kafunta take place in the Mfuwe area of the park, which has fantastic wildlife – especially in the drier months from June to October. On our last visit in October 2019 we were lucky enough to see two separate packs of wild dog, as well as some of the more usual elephants, buffalo and plenty of puku. That said, there are a number of camps in this area, so good sightings can get slightly busy with other vehicles. If you are keen for a more exclusive safari experience as well you could combine Kafunta with its remote sister camps, Island Bush Camp, which has more of a focus on walking safaris, or Three Rivers Camp, both in the southern part of the park.
Kafunta is an affordable, friendly lodge, with dedicated staff, many of whom have been there a long time. The food is good, the guiding excellent and the location very attractive. Its recent upgrade has also smartened the main areas and rooms quite significantly. Though it's larger, and in a potentially busier area, we think it's a great option combining good guiding and food with value for money.
Country manager: Zambia
- South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
- Ideal length of stay
- We'd recommend a stay of two to four nights at Kafunta, before moving either north or south to some of the more remote sections of the South Luangwa. Kafunta combines well with its sister camps in the southern area of the park, Island Bush Camp and Three Rivers Camp.
- South Luangwa is an hour's flight from Lusaka and Kafunta River Lodge is about a 45-minute drive from the airport through the bustling villages of the Mfuwe area.
- Accessible by
Food & drink
- Usual board basis
- Full Board & Activities
- Food quality
- The food at Kafunta on our last visit in October 2019 was very good and certainly of good restaurant standard. The menus were imaginative, tasty and very well presented, and dietary requirements can be accommodated. Children's meals can be prepared on request.
Breakfast is a buffet of fruits, cereals, fresh bread and pastries, with tea, coffee and a cooked breakfast served to your table.
Lunch at Kafunta is usually served as a buffet. We enjoyed a chicken curry and rice, vegetable spring rolls, a variety of cold salads and freshly baked bread.
The lodge serves a set three course dinner. We were served vegetable soup as a starter followed by the main course, a very tender beef fillet served with rice and green beans. Dessert was a very light and tasty chocolate mousse.
- Dining style
- Mixture of group dining and individual tables
- Dining locations
- Indoor and Outdoor Dining
- Further dining info, including room service
- Kafunta can offer room service but this needs to be pre-arranged, as there are no phones in the chalets.
- Drinks included
- Most drinks are included, apart from Champagne and specially imported wines and spirits.
The borehole water at Kafunta is considered safe to drink, as it comes from a deep well 60m below ground, but there is bottled water and filtered drinking water available as well.
- Attitude towards children
- There are no specific age limits for the lodge, but children under 7 are allowed only at the manager’s discretion. Park rules state that children under the age of 12 are not permitted to go on walking safaris.
- Property’s age restrictions
- There are no specific age restrictions at Kafunta, but children under 7 are allowed only at the manager’s discretion.
- Special activities & services
- Families staying at Kafunta are allocated their own vehicle so as not to disturb other guests. The camp is very flexible on mealtimes and can prepare children's meals, too.
- Kafunta has baby cots and high chairs.
- Generally recommended for children
- We would recommend Kafunta for families, due to its laid-back nature, nice pool area and relaxed team.
- Kafunta is not fenced with big game often wandering through. Children must be supervised by a parent or guardian at all times.
Our travellers’ wildlife sightings from Kafunta River Lodge
Since mid-2018, many of our travellers who stayed at Kafunta River Lodge have kindly recorded their wildlife sightings and shared them with us. The results are below. Click an animal to see more, and here to see more on our methodology.
- Power supply notes
- The power at Kafunta is on all the time, with a back-up generator in case of power outages. There are charging points in the chalets and there is a converter for different plugs that guests may borrow.
- Kafunta has WiFi in the reception/shop area for guests to use. The cellphone signal is good all around the camp.
- TV & radio
- Water supply
- Water supply notes
- The showers and handbasins are plumbed in with hot and cold water, and each chalet has a flushing toilet.
Health & safety
- Malarial protection recommended
- Medical care
- For medical issues, Kafunta uses the doctor based in the Mfuwe area, which is just a few kilometres down the road. There is a first-aid kit on site, and all the guides are trained in first aid. For emergencies Kafunta has links to a flying doctor service.
- Dangerous animals
- High Risk
- Security measures
- Kafunta has guards on the property as well as ZAWA (Zambian Wildlife Authority) scouts.
- Fire safety
- Kafunta has fire extinguishers in all the lodge’s chalets and main areas, and they conduct regular fire training for staff.
Guided walking safari
- Disabled access
- On Request
- Laundry facilities
- A full laundry service is available. Clothes are machine washed and line dried.
- There are safes in the chalets. Kafunta cannot offer any kind of currency exchange.
- Accepted payment on location
- Kafunta accepts Visa and Mastercard, but they pass on a small percentage surcharge. They cannot take Amex. Cash payments may be made in Zambian kwacha or US dollars.
Other lodges in South Luangwa National Park
Alternative places to stay in this same area.
One of the best camps in Zambia, Tafika is naturally built, combining excellent service and food with top guiding skills for a superb wildlife experience.
On the banks of the Luangwa River, with its own access to the national park, the intimate Nkwali is open year round.
Small and owner-run, the riverside Kaingo occupies a a quiet but excellent game area, with a series of wildlife hides and a focus on photography.
One of the Luangwa's oldest camps, Nsefu is a great safari camp in a remote, beautiful and game-rich location with top-rate guiding.
One of the Luangwa's best camps, in a beautiful, remote bush location, Tena Tena is very small, exceedingly well-run and has top-rate guiding.
Small, remote and owner-run, Mwamba offers first-class walking, 4WD safari drives and superb hides, with excellent guides and a real bush feel.
Chikoko Tree Camp
Chikoko Tree Camp is an excellent small, rustic bushcamp that concentrates on walking safaris, and is run by a top-quality operation.
Big Lagoon Camp
Big Lagoon Camp is a great little rustic bushcamp built to high standards that focuses on excellent walking safaris, with the emphasis on top wildlife guides.
Kapani Lodge is now the main office base for Norman Carr Safaris, one of the Luangwa's oldest safari operations.
A relatively big safari camp, Flatdogs offers value for money with great guiding and good food in a comfortable, relaxed setting.
Luangwa River Camp
Luangwa River Lodge is a small and consciously stylish lodge in the Mfuwe area, overlooking the Luangwa River and the South Luangwa National Park beyond – an area renowned for great game.
Beside the Luangwa River, Kakuli is a comfortable tented bushcamp offering 4WD safaris and walking safaris – the best of which are camp-to-camp walks linking Kakuli with its nearby sister camps.
Set in a shady ebony grove on the banks of the Luangwa, Mchenja is a smart tented bushcamp. It combines well with Kakuli and Nsolo – its sister camps with a focus on walking safaris.
Nsolo is a small, comfortable bushcamp overlooking one or two pools in the usually dry Luwi riverbed. It concentrates on walking safaris in an interesting and diverse area, led by a knowledgeable guide.
In a remote part of the South Luangwa National Park, Luwi is a rustic bushcamp whose emphasis is on walking safaris with great guiding and a chance of seeing some rarely seen and elusive antelope.
Robin Pope bush-camp
RPS bushcamping in South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
Lion Camp is an established and comfortable camp with a swimming pool, located near to the game-rich Lion Plain in the northern part of South Luangwa National Park.
Robin Pope mobile
RPS mobile safari camps are at the heart of their set-itinerary walking safaris in South Luangwa National Park, which start and finish at a permanent camp.
In the remote far south of South Luangwa National Park, Kapamba is a small and very comfortable bushcamp offering good walks and game drives.
Puku Ridge is a luxurious designer camp set in a stunning location, high on a hill overlooking a floodplain within South Luangwa. Explore from here on 4WD safaris and walks.
In a game-rich area close to the South Luangwa’s main Mfuwe Gate, Mfuwe Lodge is relatively large by park standards, but it’s stylish, modern and family friendly.
Kuyenda Bushcamp is a classic bushcamp with particularly delightful hosts and offers top-class walking safaris in South Luangwa National Park.
Luangwa Safari House
Luangwa Safari House is a vast and very smart four-bedroom house specifically designed for families and small groups, and offering an exclusive and flexible safari experience.
Opened in early June 2013, Chinzombo offers luxurious and stylish accommodation with very high levels of service and excellent guiding.
A smart bushcamp with four very spacious chalets, Bilimungwe offers interesting walking safaris in pretty riverine woodland, as well as day and night safari drives.
Three Rivers Camp
In the remote far south of South Luangwa National Park, Three Rivers Lodge sits at the confluence of three of the valleys rivers.
Chindeni Bushcamp is a very modern and minimalist camp, which is a far cry from your traditional bushcamp and unlike most of the other camps in South Luangwa.
With your own expert guide, private vehicle, chef and valet, the two-bedroom Robin's House offers an exclusive, flexible safari experience – and is open year round.
Kawaza Village – beside the South Luangwa National Park, offers guests the rare opportunity to appreciate local village life. Visit for a few hours or stay overnight.
Island Bush Camp
Island Bushcamp is a good-value, rustic, walking-only camp, in arguably one of the most remote parts of the South Luangwa, well away from all other camps.
The Mwamba-Camp Out allows you to have an incredibly adventurous night in the bush, sleeping under mosquito nets with activities led by some of the best guides in Zambia.
A comfortable little bushcamp, Chamilandu has a picturesque setting by the Luangwa River, in an area with a range of habitats to explore on foot and by 4WD.
Zungulila is a small, comfortable tented bushcamp with an emphasis on walking safaris, in the remote southern section of the South Luangwa.
Luwi Riverbed Sleepout
For an adventurous night in South Luangwa National Park, come and sleep out in the bush, around a campfire, with an experienced guide and game scout.
Opened in June 2021, Shawa Luangwa Camp is a small, intimate and rustic camp, with a good location in a remote section of the South Luangwa National Park.
Currently undergoing renovations, Chichele Presidential Lodge stands high within the park, with superb views, and is due to reopen in late 2022.
Mapazi Camp is a basic safari camp in the far north of the South Luangwa, with walking safaris led by renowned guide Deb Tittle.
Chikunto Safari Lodge is a more traditional property in the South Luangwa National Park, sitting on a peninsula of land created by the meandering Luangwa River.